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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:52:56 PM   #1
Dal
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Arrow Dal's 46M Build Thread

Hi gang!

I've had my M3 for almost two years now, thought it was about time I shared my build here



Bringing the ///M home..

After a gruelling 2.5 hour drive from London the car was home. I'll never forget that drive home, what a machine!

























July 2012 - Purchase Day
  • Saw quite a few M3's that turned out to be utter garbage in person.
  • The car I bought appeared on pistonheads - it had only been up for 3 hours, it looked perfect, I had to see it next day.
  • Seller was based in central London, so I caught the train - saw the car, absolutely flawless. The seller had not skimped on anything, infact here is what originally came with the car...

Original Spec:
  • Late 2003 BMW M3 Coupe - (Silver Grey) 55k miles
  • Latest SMG software installed
  • All Options: Heated seats, HK, Sunblind
  • Performance Frictions Pad with Goodrich braided hoses
  • Eisenmann Sport Exhaust
  • HSD Coilovers
  • Eibach front/rear anti-roll bars
  • Eibach front/rear spacers
  • Umnitza Orion II LED Angel Eyes
  • LED front indicators
  • Rogue Engineering RTABS
  • Evosport Steering Power Pulley Kit
  • Intravee + Alpine 420i Ipod interface
  • All OEM suspension/other parts included in sale including 2 free bmw brake discs!


Current Spec:
* Will update this very soon, need to trawl through updates


==============================================



The Index


Note: This list is ongoing - relevant future updates will be posted under one of the categories below.




Engine:
Evolve Stage 1 Remap
MAF Sensor Replacement
Ignition Coils / Spark Plugs Replacement
VANOS Lockdown Part 1
VANOS Lockdown Part 2
O2/Lamda pre-cat Sensor Replacement
Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement
Electric Cooling Fan Fix
Oil Separator Replacement



Transmission:
SMG Dealer Level Calibration - Full Check-list
Clutch and Flywheel Replacement




Suspension:
Bilstein B6 + H&R Spring Setup
Bilstein B6 + H&R Spring Post Review
Ohlins R/T Unboxing
Ohlins R/T Install - PART 1
Ohlins R/T Install - PART 2
Ohlins R/T Initial Review
Ohlins R/T Install Video
Ohlins R/T Ride Height Adjustment
Ohlins R/T Final Review
Front Suspension Refresh
Bilstein B6 HD with OEM Springs Review




Rattle Buster "Anthology Edition":
Door Card Removal (Broken Clip Replacement)
Rear Vent Cover
The Evil Rear Parcel Shelf
Doorcard Speaker and Armrest Rattle Fix
Lower Seat Creak/Rattle




Exterior:
Lightwerkz FX-R 3.0 Projector Retrofit/Upgrade
Lightwerkz FX-R 3.0 Projector Results
Window Regulator Replacement
Door Seal Replacement
Side Grill Restoration
AP Racing BBK Install
OEM Windscreen Replacement
PIAA Wiper Blades
Stoptech ST40 BBK Unboxing/Install




Interior/Other:
OEM Boot Release Switch Retrofit
SMG Paddle Replacement (Storm Motorworks)
Leaking Rear View Mirror Fix
SMG Ring Brushed Metal Mod
SMG Emblem Brushed Metal Mod
E-box fan replacement







================================================== ============

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 08:58:05 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:53:20 PM   #2
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

November 2012 - Vines Subframe Check



The M3 came with paperwork to show that the car had been checked by three independents for subframe cracks and nothing was found. This still wasn't good enough for me (I have OCD), so I got it checked at Vines, and I'm glad I did... Jim (well known BMW tech in the UK) found a small hairline crack within 10 minutes!

Within one week the repair was approved and booked in for end of May, a gruelling 6 month wait, but the reputation at Vines/Bodyshop is second to none for their subframe work so I'm happy I waited.

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 08:59:10 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:53:45 PM   #3
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

November 2012 - (Evolve Map - Stage 1)









I met up with Kam (White M3) at Evolve to get the stage 1 map done. You'll hear this recommended as a 'must', it improves the overall power band, better low end torque and top end power. As soon as I drove it I could tell a major difference and love the way it drives now. Think of it as 'sport-lite' version of the 'sport' button if you will.

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 08:59:36 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:54:12 PM   #4
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

January 2013 - Genuine CSL Bootlid



Ordered this from a UK based bmw parts dealer known as 'stealer' - he gave me a good deal at the time. I couldn't stop smiling once I had collected it

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:00:17 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:54:52 PM   #5
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

A quick update...

I picked up the car from the bodyshop (BMW Subframe Repair) - They had done a fantastic job, no scratches on the interior or exterior or warning lights, perfect!

A few months ago I removed the HSD coilovers due to ongoing 'knocking' issues. Since I didn't want to install a brand new suspension until the subframe was done I decided to put the car back on OEM suspension.

In an instant the handling changed from sharp and poised to a boat, but that was to be expected.

Truth is, last week the car had a suspension overhaul, but I'll talk more about that in the next update.

For now, here are some pics a few days after the subframe work was done.
























Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:01:14 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:55:54 PM   #6
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

Having a lack of support with my HSD coilovers, I wasn't comfortable going down the coilover route this time, also my mechanic kept banging on about Bilstein dampers... I started researching them and went through a mammoth 50+ page thread on Bilstein B12 Kit, took me months to get through but by far contained the most valuable suspension info for the E46 M3 I have found to date.

The B12 kit consists of B6 dampers and eibach springs - however it should be noted that the serial/part number on these items seem to match 'off the shelf parts'. In other words the B12 kit is actually a set of B6 shocks bundled with eibach springs.

Going from coilovers to OEM suspension was never going to be fun, but I seriously underestimated just how rubbish the OEM suspension was. It had only done 30k and already felt like it was shot!

In the end I didn't go for the B12 simply because I wanted to find a more 'sport/firm' setup but at the same time a suspension that is very 'road' compliant....

.... and I found it!


Bilstein B6 Shocks





H&R Sport Springs





Ground Control Camber/Castor STREET Plates





Rogue Engineering Rear Shock Mounts





Steering Coupler (Upper and Lower)





New OEM Drop-Links





Install









Before: Donor OEM Suspension (30k old - awful ride quality, hated everyday of it)







After Shots (B6 + H&R Springs) (not fully settled, 3 days old)









6 months in the making
It honestly took that long - but finally the car is handling great again. I wanted to wait 2 weeks before writing up about the new suspension so that I could get a feel for it - its firm but not back breaking and very road compliant.

The B6's literally eat all the bumps in the road, its made my commute much more enjoyable, you can really feel the high pressure dampers pushing the wheels into the ground over bumps - fantastic.

This is all without wheel alignment which is what I'm about to do next - I wanted to let the suspension settle a bit first.

Ground Control Street Camber Plates:
At first this may seem like an nice extra, but there is much more to it than that. I had them specially ordered from GC in California to my spec. Having this plate allows me to enjoy the same flexibility you would have on coilovers with regards to more camber and castor adjustment - but that isn't the main reason for my purchase...

In order for a damper to be truly efficient, it must be able to use a decent amount of travel, now the B6's are intended as a direct replacement for the OEM sachs shock, and to be paired with OEM springs.... eibachs are relatively close to OEM hence the B12 is a perfect full kit 'OEM' replacement.

By using a lowering spring like the H&R's the damper travel has been reduced somewhat - this is less of an issue for B6's as they are highly pressurized, but more damper travel would mean better ride quality. So, getting back to the camber plates, their unique design means that the shock will gain an extra 3cm of damper travel without 'increasing' the ride height. When you consider that one can use a lowering spring like H&R and reduce/eliminate loss of damper travel that is truly win win :cool:

Steering Coupler
If you have a 70k+ M3 certainly get it done. I had felt some play in my steering wheel a few months ago, strange thing is it appeared to happen overnight. I've had this part for a few months, I decided to get it fitted along with the new B6 kit and it made a world of difference, now have factory razor sharp steering back.

I inspected the old part, you can't tell if its worn visually, I tried to move the linkages and they were very loose! I made a detailed post on these here. 7/10 the lower joint is the problem, it's a cheaper option at 60... I decided to get the upper one done too just in case.


Thoughts
The suspension is still in its settling in phase. First day it was very tight and firm, now I feel as though everything is becoming more 'smoother' . The ride height is still changing (lowering), I'm happy with it as it is but I can see it going lower in the next few weeks. As mentioned before the car feels really 'practical' now, great for rough road and sublime and country roads.

I still have a few more things planned, but the geometry setup is the next thing that needs doing.

Thats all for now folks!

Thanks for reading

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:02:04 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:56:37 PM   #7
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

So I've had the new suspension on the car for a few weeks now, and had the alignment done yesterday. This was from a trustworthy shop in Derby where the guy actually 'knows' what he is doing - "McEwans Garage". I've use him before, he does everything properly, steering clamp and ballast loading.

I've had the CSL spec alignment done, and taken the car for a quick test on some B-roads near me








Prior to putting on the B6 kit I had some issues during high speed driving (motoway) where the car would feel quite floaty, and I could detect slight bodyroll laterally - Of course anyone who knows these cars would automatically presume RTABS.


RTABS
However I actively refused to believe they were the cause. My car had Rogue Engineering (BLACK/STREET) RTABs fitted around a year ago (previous seller). The rear 'floaty' symptom had only started a few months ago, in other words these RTABS had 6k on them. I should add here that at the time I just replaced the rear tyres with VREDS which usually need a few hundred miles to scrub in so I didn't want to jump to any conclusions. After a few hundred miles the tyres settled down nicely, but the rear instability was still there.

After installing the B6 kit, the floaty feeling was still there - abit more mild though to be fair. With an upcoming alignment scheduled I decided to bite the bullet and go down the OEM RTAB + Limiter route.

Here's what the RE RTABS looked like:







This is the first RTAB replacement I've had done so I am no expert but is one side of the RTAB supposed to wear like that? - If you look at the pic you'll see a chamfered edge, this is the same for both pairs. :confused:

I installed the following kit which I've had on my shelf for a few months:




The rear feels stable again after fitting these, you can tell it's a touch softer but this has added some comfort too. I'm going to see how I get on with these, so far so good. In the future I might try some PF bushes.

I'm still testing the suspension out at the moment, with alignment done I can finally push the suspension, so I'll be back soon with a review!

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:04:31 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:57:09 PM   #8
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

Bilstein B6 + H&R + GC Street Plates Review









Quite a few people have been waiting for a review on these, I have put this off previously because I wanted to give a verdict after alignment was done.

I had CSL alignment performed on my car this week and I have been testing the suspension on various roads, (A-B roads, city driving and motorway). Below are my observations...

Current Impressions
When the kit was first installed a few weeks ago, it was much firmer than it is now. You'd think I'd be worried but actually I was enjoying the transformation from my worn out OEM shocks. As weeks have passed the suspension has settled and become more open/relaxed, bumps are absorbed a bit more comfortably but everything is nice and tight on spirited drives.

I'm going to give a short description about the behaviour of the system based on types of roads - it shouldn't be taken literally as not every road is the same but at least you get a general idea for the type of roads I am describing:

City Driving:
  1. Every bump, undulation is registered and dealt with. You will 'feel' a lot more of the road, and you can definitely feel the difference in firmness between this and OEM.
  2. Although firmer, bumps are dealt with quickly and predictably, as the suspension has settled down it has become more comfortable.
  3. If you drive at low speed (traffic) over a really bad road, the rear end can get a little bouncy, this is down to the high pressured dampers, go across this same patch of road at higher speed and it just glides.
  4. In comparison to my HSDs these are much more comfortable, I actually thing city roads is what killed them lol, this is where my camber plates really help out (extra travel).

B Roads:
  1. On smooth roads the suspension performs incredibly well. As mentioned before the B6's seem to cope much better over bumps at speed. Roll has been significantly reduced although note I have Eibach ARBs, but I still had these on with OEM suspension.
  2. Under heavy acceleration on a straight everything feels tight as it should, there is a lot more feedback through the steering wheel, you really can 'feel' the road beneath you, it simply flies round corners with conviction.
  3. I found on a particular B-road which had a lot of undulations (looks perfectly flat but isn't) the suspension would seem a little 'too' responsive.
  4. After driving this particular road continuously back and forth a few times I realised on my third attempt that it was feedback overload, I wasn't used to feeling soo much of the road, I accelerated more and looked far ahead; the car did not deviate off course (no roll steer), so excellent traction was maintained.
  5. The B-roads is where I have had the most fun, the exaggerated road feedback keeps you immersed.

A Roads / Motorway:
  1. This was surprising. I expected the nothing but a butter smooth ride; even here I could feel imperfections on the road that would otherwise go largely noticed.
  2. It is by no means uncomfortable either, just more road 'feel' - hard to explain but it just makes you feel more involved.
  3. Under hard acceleration the car tightens up, controlled and focussed, superb!

Initial Conclusions
I am still learning all the time with this suspension, it may still have a bit more time to go before it becomes fully settled, characteristics may even change by then.

In terms of a quality shock & spring combo, it is fantastic however do note that this type of setup will favour the kind of driver who likes to have a good acute sense of road feel relative to what the car is doing. You will feel more involved simply by the extra feedback.

If that does not interest you, I would still recommend B6 dampers but paired with softer springs like eibachs/OEM.

What's next
I've been craving to go down to 18s for a while, although the current setup handles well on 19s, I am rather eager to try them on 18s as I suspect compliancy will improve significantly.



Update 31/10/2015
This is Dal from the future - A lot of advancement has been made with my suspension experiments since the time of this review. As you'll read I have tried various suspension kits for the 46M. I would suggest avoiding this setup unless you are willing to purchase a set of GC street plates to regain 1" in lost damper travel. Last year, a post revealed the long hidden bumpstop in the front B6 struts. This showed just how travel limited the B6's is....with a stock spring. So using an aftermarket lowering spring only makes the situation worse... expect a harsh ride. Of course you can eliminate this problem by using GC plates.

As you'll see, I experiment with the B6s and OEM springs - a better compliant ride but suffers visually from a high ride height. If you must go with H&Rs, a koni damper would be a better choice as it has no internal bumpstop... it uses the OEM external bumpstop.

Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:05:44 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:57:40 PM   #9
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

For anyone who is interested in the GC street plates plates, they were bought from here:

http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=9/CA=264

... and here were my options (customization):

spring type: stock diameter springs, 2.5" ID springs
isBilsteinPSS9: PSS9, No, I want new bearings and perches, I will use my own - go for new bearings as your old ones will be crusty, thats what I did!
ShockType: Bilstein (obvious)
ShockStemDiameter: 16mm to 14mm just like stock, 14mm aftermarket


Last edited by Dal; Mon, Nov-02-2015 at 09:07:12 PM.
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Old Fri, Mar-28-2014, 11:58:54 PM   #10
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Default Re: Dal's 46M Build Thread

Another update....

Today I finally decided to tackle the 'Door Rattle' problem. If you have owned an ///M long enough you will eventually run into this. Basically the door cards begin to emit rattle sounds when driving, also I've noticed arm rests starting to creak, basically making everything feel cheap and annoying.

When I first owned the car there were no rattle sounds, it was wonderful. Over the past 4 months or so these rattles seem to have crept in from nowhere!

Ok, lets get to it - this is more of a general walk through, it is not a pure DIY, I'll provide links at the end which are much more in depth.


First thing I did was disconnect the battery since I would be removing the door card. An airbag is located behind it and is liable to go off or at the very least give errors on the dash if something goes wrong. There is no hard rule saying you must do this, but for me since I would be 'tapping/shaking' the door quite a bit to eliminate all rattles I felt spending the extra 10 minutes doing this was worth it. Note - once I disconnected the negative terminal I left the car alone for 10-15 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge.




Door Card
Here is the drivers door card - the marks on it have been bugging me for a while. A simple wet rag will not work, once the door card is off I will be giving it a makeover :p







Fixture Layout
On the pic below I have outlined for you the main fixtures. The green arrows represent Torx T20 screws, and the pink X represents the plastic door clips.





PickSet
The Torx 20 screws on the arm rest are easy to get to, the other two (door handle and airbag cover) require some extra work - you'll need to pry the covers off them. For the door handle cover, I used a pick set like this:





Door handle Torx cover clip removed using pick set
(you could used a kraft knife).




Bojo Tools - remove Airbag clip cover
For the airbag cover clip I used a set of Bojo interior tools, these are great as they won't mark delicate material, yet provide decent strength and leverage:




Airbag Clip
Airbag cover clip removed using bojo tool:





Card Removal and Mirror Switch
Once I had unscrewed all the Torx and clips, I needed to remove the wires and door handle mechanisms, Don't worry about these as they are covered in the DIY videos/links. One thing to mention here when working on the drivers door card is the removal of the mirror switch.

Don't bother trying to pry the switch off on the arm rest, you'll probably end up marking it!! On the reverse side of the door card look for the wire leading to the mirror switch unit, simply insert your middle finger to pop it out from underneath




Simples!




E46 M3 Door Card Template
After a bit of research I mapped out the placement of the clips on the E46 M3 door cards. There are two sets of clips, white and grey. These will be talked about later, but for now I have created a template so that everyone can use it as a reference as to where the clips are located and which sets go where: (Note: part number quantities are for 2 doors worth of clips)





Here's what my door card looked like...



I was horrified when I saw this. It appears the door card was taken off once and reassembled by Jeremy Clarkson with a hammer. In my ownership the car has never required the door cards to be removed prior to this, so it must of been during the ownership of previous owners.

There are clips missing, clip sets in the wrong place and clips that have been crushed. At this point I was annoyed but also relived as I never would of guessed it would be in this state.



Ugh....





Sticky pads!
When I was researching door rattles with the E46, it was often noted that some cable fixings are known to rattle. I bought some 2mm self adhesive sticky pads to try and fix problem areas...





Rattling Suspects
This is a classic case of deception. The cable here is covered in noise absorbent material, so you'd think all would be ok. In reality, the plastic clip that pokes out of the hole makes a 'TAP TAP' sound. Although this area is covered by sound absorbent material, the tap tap was too loud imo. So I used the sticky pads (cut out) to pad the plastic screw.





Regulator/Glass Fixings
With the door card out, now is also a good time to check the glass fixings on the Window regulators to see if they need tightening. The next two pics show the front and rear glass clamp fixings on the regulator:







NEW OEM Door Clips
So, back to them door clips. The white clips are general purpose, and the grey ones appear to be more resilient, however the grey ones are supposed to be aligned towards the inner vertical part of the door card. I'm not sure exactly why this is, but it might have something to do with the weight being heavier due to the speaker(s)?

These are OEM from the dealer, really important note - if you decide to get cheap door clips on ebay be aware many don't have the FOAM washers rendering them completely pointless imo.







Door Card Scrub
I spent some time on the door card, giving it a deep clean...





Installing new clips
Using the template I showed earlier, I placed all the clips into their correct positions, much better





Door Card Reinstalled!
I put the door card back on. One thing to note is that once you have all the clips in place and pointed at their respective holes you may still encounter some resistance. This resistance feels like there is a cable or something stopping the clips from fully plugging into the hole - this isn't the case, the clips just require a little force....as long as they are aligned into the hole(s) they will pop in fine following some force - don't let them intimidate you as they did with me for 30 minutes :rolleyes:





Finished Result:








Conclusion:
As soon as I was finished, I took the car out for a drive, straight away noises were reduced by 50%..... that's because I haven't done the passenger one yet. It's weird because the driver side is silent now, but the passenger side appears much more nosier even though it's probably the same its ever been. Also the arm rest feels really robust again, no flexing or creaking - I tightened these up using the bolts on the rear side of the door card.

I tried pushing various parts of the drivers door card to expose some creaks, I heard nothing at all. The new clips have certainly improved it, it is literally like new.

Will complete the passenger side next weekend. If your going to do this then I suggest you take your time and try not to rush it, just do one side per day.... it will be helpful to learn how everything fits together as you will probably need to take the card off again in the future to fix something. :rolleyes:

Resources DIY:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=372150
http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2955
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=185698

Door Card Removal:


Well that's all from me for now folks!

Dal

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Discussing Dal's 46M Build Thread in the Member Journals Forum - Do you have a long term project you would like to share with the community? Use this forum to create a single thread which you can update over time to document the progress. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)