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| M3 Track: Racing and DE Best mod for speed is learning to get the most out of what you currently have. Tracks and DE's is the place to start! |
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#1 |
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VTEC, shyt dat's fast!!!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 401
Reputation: 0
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It seems there are not many track/autocross people here. Just the same names I see here, roadfly, and bf.c. But, I'll post here.
Nick and I were at the track and going at a pretty good clip ... I was on my street tires and nick was on his RA-1's I believe. Both of us roasted the pads. There's absolutely none left. I have the brembo bbk up front and euro rears. I would like to get a good autocross/street pad for right now. a) I don't care about noise -- it can squeal like a stuck pig for all I care. b) I DO care about wear to the rotors though. I also want something that will not corrode the wheels. I am lazy and do not wash the car wheels as frequently as some of you guys. I also see some cracking in the rotors by the holes, none of the cracks are connecting, more like spider web cracks. 1) where can I get replacement rotors for the front BBK? It's fcukin' ridiculous. This kit is only like 6 months old with 2 track days on them. I've used them for autocross -- but, damn ... BBK = biggest fcukin' waste of money IMO ...
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CAUTION: Fast car. Slow Driver on board. |
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#2 |
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#56 JP M3
Join Date: Dec 2003
Age: 29
Posts: 4,991
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Dallas TX
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Since you have a bbk, its so easy to swap pads before a track day. I'd go with a dedicated track pad instead of a dual purpose pad. They won't be good on the street or on track.
I'm running Cobalt Spec VR's right now and love them, great pads. Hawk HT10/14 are great pads too.
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Sean
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#3 |
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M this!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,438
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Toronto and the beloved Montreal
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I've had good results with Hawk HP plus pads. This is not a track dedicated pad so it won't perform like one but works on the street too.
For more dedicated track work, HT10's are supposed to work great. Other's seem to like Pagid Orange which is more track oriented. The pads on the Brembo's that came originally are more street performance oriented so if you are really working the brakes it's no wonder they (the pads) got cooked...
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_______________________ ![]() 4 kick ass "the shitz" wheels, 4 "super duper" rubber tires, "double vanos" "M" "motorsport" german powerplant, "M" motorsport one piston calipers and rotors, "M" "real glass" windows, "M3" carpets, "Imola Motorsport" leather adjustable seats, 6 MT motorsport gears w reverse function, twin painted door handles, double aero mirrors, ra ra roundels, M3 emblems, M3 kickplates PiggyBank sponsored |
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#4 |
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M3Forum Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,321
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Peachtree City
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I have tried a multitude of pads and only had one I have stuck with: Pagid RS-14 Carbon Blacks. The pad has strong cold and initial bite, crisp release, can take temps well in excess of 1.300F and doesn't eat rotors.
As to rotors, I can get you a nice price on StopTech rotors if interested. I would recommend going slotted v holes. Dan Law DERMotorsports@gmail.com |
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#5 | |
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M3Forum Sponsor
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 868
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Fairfield, NJ
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Quote:
If you are going to run on the track regularly, then your rotors will not exit this world by wearing down evenly from 32mm thick to 30mm thick (Brembo's specified discard thickness). Instead, they will start to develop tiny spiderweb surface cracks. You will see more and more of them until, eventually, they open up enough that you can catch a fingernail in them. At that point, it's time to think about replacing the rotors. The cracks you see are normal. The reason you are seeing them so soon is that you have cross drilled rotors. Plain or slotted rotors will last longer at the track and won't develop these micro-surface cracks as quickly. They will eventually get them. But not as fast as the drilled rotors. When you finally do replace those rotors, take Dan Law's advice and get slotted. |
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