BMW M3 Forum
BMW M3 Forum BMW M3 Gallery BMW M3 Reviews BMW M3 Social Groups BMW M3 Chat M3Forum Sponsors >>
Loading


Mobile M3forum
Go Back   BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X) > M3Forum Garage > Faults, Fixes and DIY
Tire Rack Buy Winter Tires Now!
Not a member? Register Now!
Register Gallery All AlbumsBlogs Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar FAQ

Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Sun, Nov-28-2010, 11:16:23 PM   #1
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default DIY: e46 M3 Subframe bushings and front diff bushing replacement

Ok, so i am too cheap to buy a special tool for $400 to get those done and wouldn't want to keep borrowing tools to get the job done. Locally, i have not found a single trust-worthy mechanic, so i was stuck finding some other way of doing this.
Please keep in mind, that i am not liable for any damages or injuries that might occur while performing this DIY.
I came up with a funny, yet effective and cheap way of doing this job.
Anyone having any more suggestions, or improvements please discuss!

first of all, i purchased another subframe to try it on, yes, on ebay...
got OEM bushings from local dealer with BMW CCA discount, was pretty cheap.
then, i had to find the way to get this done right and without damages, so i needed tools.

1) AutoZone or AdvanceAuto has free tool rental, i found a 2/3 arm 5 ton gear puller, rented, but then purchased - $40.
2) Also purchased 35mm axle bolt socket from "OEM" brand. (for front diff bushing, returned this after i was done)
3) Went to "tractor supply" store and got 3x 1-inch washer, 6x 3/4-inch washers, 3x 1/2 washers, they went by weight and cost approx $2.
4) Also purchased $13 for 2 inch bolt socket, returned it when bushing removal was done.
5) $3 roll of electric tape, yes that's right... Basically, i found two solid forms that were very close to the diameter of the outer subframe bushing metal rings on top and bottm of the bushings.
6) Get a bolt with 15mm-17mm (1/2 inch) shaft diameter and approx 1 inch in length (i used stopper from front top radiator support, see pix).
7) Found one e36 idler pulley bolt and a nut from the e36 BMW seat mounting (have lots of odd bolts/nuts laying around).
8) Permatex Super Weatherstripping adhesive glue.
9) e36 RSM flat washer, see pix.

everything done with subframe already out of the car and differential removed from it.

- Front Diff busing removal
1) measure the diameter of the new busing and the socket, socket should be only 0.5mm smaller.
2) Flip the subframe sideways and hold it up with your knees, place some thick towels on the sides that are standing on the floor not to damage the subframe.
3) Insert OEM brand 35mm Axle socket from the outer side (opposite to differential) side of the subframe like you are trying to unscrew the bushing. you will find the fitment kind of tight from the outer edge.
4) use hammer slightly to push the socket in the area closer to front diff bushing. it will look like it is a perfect fit...
5) if you see the socket went in pretty easy keep hammering, the diff bushing will come right out...

- Front Diff bushing installation
1) make sure no sharp edges anywhere you are trying to install the new bushing.
2) position bushing from the differential side to the whole where it needs to go, mark it if your bushing is directional in any way (mine was solid, so it needed to go horizontally).
3) take the idler pulley bolt, put a washer on it to match it's size, then 2x 1/2" washers on it, then 2x 3/4" washers, then 2x 1" washers.
4) put the bolt from the outside through the subrame and then new bushing, aligning the 1" washers to the outer edge of the suframe outer diff half circle.
5) on the bushing side, on the bolt, put 1" washer, then 3/4" washer, then 1/2" washer, then another one to match the bolt diameter.
6) start putting the nut from the seat on the bolt, tighten everything with fingers and verify everything is straight and nothing will get stuck if you start tightening with wrenches/ratchets.
7) start racheting away from one side while holding the other side bolt/nut. if bushing gets a little on the side (leaning), it will most likely lean to the rear of the subframe, so i used vise grips while everything is still assembled to grip between the 1" washer that is sitting on the new bushing and the outer side of the bushing sleeve, and slightly pushed other side until the bolt started pulling the bushing in straight. pull it in until there is no gap between the bushing side washer and the subframe sleeve, that should be a flush mount. TMS has more instructions on their website.

- Subrame bushing removal
1) measure the diameter of your 2" bushing and the diameter of the top side of every subframe bushing, socket should be 2-3mm less.
2) the old bushings are not longer needed, right? well, if so, then the best way to do this is to cut the rubber shock absorbers that make the top of the bushings uneven circe surface, which i did very easily with a knife.
3) drill a dimple in a 13mmx25mm bolt head (about 2mm-3mm deep) right in the center, it will help for the gear puller not to slip off. since i have used the radiator support stoppers, i didn't have to do this part.
4) find some kind of flat metal about 3mm in thickness, that will cover the top of the bushing completely (i used 4x 8mm-10mm wrenches from the BMW toolkits; yes, i am that ghetto), then place socket on top of it, then 3x 1/2 washers, then the bolt with the dimple.
5) place gear puller on top of that, use two arm function to grab on to sides of the subframe bushing metal sleeve and tighten the gear puller to the rest, align if needed again, spray wd-40 on the edge of the bushing, it will help just a little bit...
6) start tightening the gear puller more the more until you reach the place where the flat piece of metal (the wrenches in my case) start touching subframe.
7) remove the flat piece of metal (the wrenches) and put the 2" socket directly on the bushing, from here on it should no longer slip and will go pretty smoothly.
8) i used breaker bar instead of the impact gun just to make sure i got time to correct something before something snaps, so i would suggest doing the same, but as soon as the 2" socket is within the bushing sleeve about 1cm, it is pretty obvious that everything is good and impact gun would help with time.
9) rear passenger side bushing is a little harder due to having nothing to grab on to with gear puller (the bushing bottom side is covering the sleeve edges). however the subframe has two holes on the sides of the sleeve. i used two connecting pieces of metal from the 2/3 gear puller kit (between the arm and the center piece). i put them in the holes, leaving about 13mm outside and used them as my gripping point for both arms of the gear puller. this was a very non-trustworthy construction, but indeed, it worked...

- Subframe bushing installation
1) washed all the bushings from dirt, dust, rubber excess, dried them thoroughly.
2) i placed all the bushings in the freezer for about 30min on high setting.
3) made sure all the markings are followed and made sure to press proper bushings in proper holes, triple checked...
4) after freezer, wiped the bushing from excess condensation, aligned to the hole, pressed it in little bit with my hands.
5) Assembled the gear puller in the same way as i would be pressing it out, except from the up-side down and instead of the 2" socket, i am using a roll of electric tape and RSM washer. make sure to mount the arms on the very edge of the metal sleeve so the bushing will not get stopped at the very end by the arms themselves...
6) applied good bit of weatherstripping adhesive to bushing and to inside of the sleeve
7) pressing in the bushings will be significantly easier, just make sure the roll of electric tape does not fall apart before you complete 4 bushings, so might want to have 2 rolls just in case. i used non-sticky electric tape from Home depot from 3M.
8) when the bushings is pressed in, make sure you press it all the way in, wipe out excess adhesive.
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0

Last edited by ///NNM; Tue, Dec-14-2010 at 02:45:34 PM. Reason: addition
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Register now and remove these ads
Old Sat, Dec-04-2010, 03:58:50 PM   #2
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

got stuck on trying to find: "circolight rubber bonding agent"
i am not planning to use lube, as previous bushings separated from subframe as i found tracks of lube used.
any help appreciated finding this "circolight rubber bonding agent"
so far found "Permatex Super Weatherstripping Adhesive" which is used for shoes and weatherstripping, rubbery glue, very potent...

any better ideas?
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Sat, Dec-04-2010, 04:23:19 PM   #3
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/28025/10002/-1?CT=999
http://www.allsafetysupplies.com/Loc...le_p_4545.html
http://www.adhesive.com/i5-instant-a..._campaign=feed
?
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0

Last edited by ///NNM; Sat, Dec-04-2010 at 04:41:00 PM. Reason: addition
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Dec-14-2010, 02:12:18 PM   #4
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

alright, i have pushed th bushings in successfully.
editing the 1'st post and then adding pix.
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Dec-14-2010, 02:40:37 PM   #5
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

pictures attached
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_112113.jpg (849.4 KB, 365 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_112126.jpg (803.1 KB, 375 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_112135.jpg (832.2 KB, 337 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_112216.jpg (844.1 KB, 297 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_112407.jpg (853.8 KB, 244 views)
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Dec-14-2010, 02:44:24 PM   #6
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

let me know if any of you have any questions.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_121033.jpg (810.8 KB, 241 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_121742.jpg (760.5 KB, 317 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_121749.jpg (753.5 KB, 280 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_124458.jpg (850.3 KB, 272 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20101207_124508.jpg (807.3 KB, 241 views)
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Dec-14-2010, 10:31:05 PM   #7
Doybo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Reputation: 0 Doybo is on a distinguished road

United States




Default ShizNit

///NNM,

great post. obviously ou know what our doing/love it to.

don't know why our not linked to the primary DIY pages that pop up first?

keep having fun and gaining experiences

///Doybo
Jump to top Doybo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Wed, Dec-15-2010, 01:40:05 PM   #8
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default

thank you for kind words...
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Dec-28-2010, 11:28:36 PM   #9
///NNM
Registered User
 
///NNM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,423
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 ///NNM is on a distinguished road
Location: Raleigh

Russian Federation




Default Re: DIY: e46 M3 Subframe bushings and front diff bushing replacement

update: step 5 in Subframe bushing installation:

using roll of electric tape and a little bigger size diameter pipe flange (HomeDepot, Lowes) will be better and more accessible for people hot having exact set of spare parts.
__________________
| Modified AA SC 455RWHP | Walbro GS340 | Custom Alpha-N | SuperSprint Headers | 4.10 | TMS: Camber Plates & Arms, Solid Diff mounts, Studs, Front/Rear Subframe Kits | ACS Strut bar | PF RTABS | UUC: SSK3, DSSR, tranny mounts, SS clutch, brake lines | H&R Front Sway | ST coils v1 | 18" LTW5 | Custom CORSA Exhaust

YouTube DIY Videos Sister 98 M3 2dr; Wife 04 X3 3.0
Jump to top ///NNM is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Jan-11-2011, 10:02:55 PM   #10
wilmar13
Registered User
 
wilmar13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Age: 38
Posts: 559
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 wilmar13 is on a distinguished road
Location: Charlotte

United States




Default Re: DIY: e46 M3 Subframe bushings and front diff bushing replacement

I tried like hell to get out the subframe bushings using this method but I couldn't do it. I think I was limited by the torque I could get on the bolt was insufficient. Or the grade bolt was too cheap (the threads in the bolt seized eventually when I put the impact to it).

I then tried to use gear puller and seized it too (after grinding the arms down so I could get a hold on the subframe!). They were really stuck in there!

I tried to cut one out with a jig saw, but it made such a burning stinking mess I was ready to just buy a new car (after beating this one to death with a small ball peen hammer).

However I stumbled upon an alternative that may work better (it did for me).
It was SUPER easy.

I used a 3/8" 4 flute ball-nosed end-mill in an electric hand drill to drill through the rubber (it is course so it actually cuts through instead of burning) and then used some side pressure to cut through the aluminum outer shell and into the final outside rubber layer. It sounds like you are in
danger of going into your subframe, but not really as the aluminum cuts very predictably and the outer rubber layer on the bushing is thick. Once you are through this, it allows the bushing to collapse and you can knock it out with a hammer very easily. I was very cautious on the first one but
less so on the others. and I never went through the outer rubber layer to scuff the subframe bore. It took literally 15 minutes to do all of them. It is crazy how easy it makes it.

This is the endmill (you can get these in HSS from MSC or anywhere that would have basic machine cutting tools):


Drill through the intermediate rubber layer:


Then apply side pressure to cut through the aluminum shell.


Then beat that f*cker out (it will come out easily once you have broken the aluminum layer) and be glad you didn't waste your time and ruin your floor with melted rubber from a jig saw blade.

Last edited by wilmar13; Tue, Jan-11-2011 at 10:07:26 PM.
Jump to top wilmar13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
bushing, bushings, diff, diy, e46, front, replacement, subframe

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 12:10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
M3Forum.com and M3forum.net is in no way sponsored, endorsed or affiliated by or with BMW NA / BMW AG or any of it's subsidiaries or vendors.
BMW and M3 (E90 M3 | E92 M3 | E93 M3 | E46 M3 | E36 M3 | E30 M3) are registered trademarks of BMW AG.
M3Forum Terms of Service
Copyright 1999-2014 M3Forum.com
Discussing DIY: e46 M3 Subframe bushings and front diff bushing replacement in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)