[Chaser720]

So after getting the red battery light, I replaced my alternator with a rebuilt one from autopartswarehouse.com with no avail. Light turned off but car was still not charging.


This in turn killed my battery so had to buy a new one of those. In the mean time I called the site and am in the process of returning the alternator.

I decided to take my orginal alternator into a "reputable" rebuild shop about an hour away from me. They charged $250 to rebuild it using all OEM parts.

Cool, kinda expensive but at least its done right... right. Well reinstalled the rebuilt one and worked perfectly for about 5 minutes. I let the car warm up and ran through the RPMs a bit to make sure everything was good.

And the red battery light came back on and volts fell from a constant 13.3 cruising through the 12s and into the 11s when i got home.

Called the alternator shop and they claim its a thermal sensor thats either in the alternator or connected to it and that is bad...


Moral or the story: I feel like im getting the run around here. Any validity to any of this?

[daytonaviolet]

if its the thermal sensor.. (never heard of that) why didnt the shop just replace it intially?

thats why i just usually get NIB oem parts which come with warranty. sorry for you troubles.

[Chaser720]

Originally Posted by daytonaviolet

if its the thermal sensor.. (never heard of that) why didnt the shop just replace it intially?

thats why i just usually get NIB oem parts which come with warranty. sorry for you troubles.

Yeah... Thats what i was thinking. Try to save a buck and you end up paying full price anyway.

[Chaser720]

So just got the car back again and still this issue.

Only happens when the car is up at full temperature and only stays on for a few seconds then reactivates.

Anyone?

[Chaser720]

Basically this exact problem

http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=266664

[RedM3/4]

Does the shop not warrant their work? First thing, I'd ask the shop, nicely and cooperatively at first, to tell you everything they did, every part they tested or replace. If they only replaced the regulator, it is possible that it was defective - went out when you saw the voltage drop; otherwise, it may need a diode pack/rectifier, which they may or may not have replaced. These are probably soldered to the stator (outside) windings on the inside of the alternator. If one of them has a bad solder joint, it could be in contact when cold, then pull away when hot - that's a guess, but it shouldn't matter if they have ANY integrity behind their work. Push them on this, or tell them you want a full refund; next step, BBB report and letter from your lawyer. I think they're NOT a reputable shop, but I'd try the nice approach first.
I fairly certain they're talking smack on a thermal overload, but if there is one, it would be in or on the alternator you took them, and it would be an obvious thing to replace. Since these are based on heat (duh-thermal), they have to be in physical contact with the unit they protect (double duh).
You might take it to another auto-electric shop and have them test it.

What do you mean "stays on for a few seconds and then reactivates"? The light only stays on a short while? Or the light reactivates?

ADS

Originally Posted by Chaser720

So just got the car back again and still this issue.

Only happens when the car is up at full temperature and only stays on for a few seconds then reactivates.

Anyone?

[Chaser720]

Originally Posted by RedM3/4

Does the shop not warrant their work? First thing, I'd ask the shop, nicely and cooperatively at first, to tell you everything they did, every part they tested or replace. If they only replaced the regulator, it is possible that it was defective - went out when you saw the voltage drop; otherwise, it may need a diode pack/rectifier, which they may or may not have replaced. These are probably soldered to the stator (outside) windings on the inside of the alternator. If one of them has a bad solder joint, it could be in contact when cold, then pull away when hot - that's a guess, but it shouldn't matter if they have ANY integrity behind their work. Push them on this, or tell them you want a full refund; next step, BBB report and letter from your lawyer. I think they're NOT a reputable shop, but I'd try the nice approach first.
I fairly certain they're talking smack on a thermal overload, but if there is one, it would be in or on the alternator you took them, and it would be an obvious thing to replace. Since these are based on heat (duh-thermal), they have to be in physical contact with the unit they protect (double duh).
You might take it to another auto-electric shop and have them test it.

What do you mean "stays on for a few seconds and then reactivates"? The light only stays on a short while? Or the light reactivates?

ADS

It was coming on at high rpms then when dropping back down going out. Im am now thinking its belt slip.

I sprayed the belt with dressing and it was good for about 20 minutes of driving. Now its back on almost constantly when i touch the throttle and off and occasionally flashes when i let off.

Here is a shitty video i took on my cell phone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGzpmI86Pgs

[RedM3/4]

Classic symptom of bad alternator.

ADS

[Chaser720]

Originally Posted by RedM3/4

Classic symptom of bad alternator.

ADS

Seriously?

This **** is getting old. Any chance this would be a belt slipping?

[TboneM3]

You need to get a Bosch rebuilt from AutohausAz.com On sale for $167 right now, with $111 core. Seriously, a steal. Just replaced mine, fixed the problem of the flashhing battery light. Only way to go is Bosch rebuilt.