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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 02:27:32 AM   #1
dsm918
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Smile Intermittent Starting Issue-Complete DIY-Starter Replacement (Intake Removal)

UPDATED on 09/18/2010

Before I get into the DIY, please see my old thread here..........

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=265568

That thread explains the issue I have been trying to resolve. The starting issue was only intermittent (once every 2 months or so) until recently for the past 3 weeks when it started happening everyday. Every morning I had to hold the key in the crank position for upto 30-45 secs. Really annoying !!

I noticed that no one has taken a video of this annoying issue so here it is.........the intermittent starting issue at it's worst. This was the longest I ever held the key in the crank position....upto 2 minutes Notice in the video that I pressed the clutch in & out a few times and you can hear the click for the clutch switch. This was to demonstrate that the clutch switch wasn't the problem. All dash lights are on, no dimming of any lights. The only thing you can hear is the whirring of the fuel pump.


If you follow the link above to my thread you'll see that I had tried everything and based on other forum member's experiences I had it narrowed down to the starter or the terminal wires. I figured before I spend the $$$$$ to go get a new starter I might as well clean the terminals and see if that is the issue. Tried that and it improved but did not go away. It just got progressively worse.

SO TAKE MY ADVISE..............IF YOU HAVE THESE SYMPTOMS JUST CHANGE THE DAMN STARTER!

I want to say thanks to forum member Mr. Wolfe who gave me the initial pointers on how to go about tackling this. The procedure does seem simple and straightforward enough but small nuisances like the hose plugs, crazy BMW hose clamps and random stuff can be a real pain and make your life really really miserable so I figured a detailed DIY was in place.

What you need:

1) The usual 10mm, 13mm, 14mm and 19mm sockets or wrenches.

2) MAF Cleaner

3) Regular Phillip Screwdriver

4) T30 Torx Screwdriver

5) Needle Nose Pliers (Very Very important)

6) Dielectric Grease

7) Wirebrush

This pictures gives a overview of what all needs to be opened.



1a) Disconnect the +ve Battery terminal located on the left side near the void space





1b) +ve Termial Disconnected





2) Unplug the MAF sensor located near the Air Filter





3a&b) Unbolt the Sway Bar







4) Unbolt the Dip Stick using a 10mm Wrench




5a) Twist off the three tabs to take the cabin filter housing cover off





5b) Unclip the conduit holding the 2 wires. Also, shown are the 4 Torx screws that need to be opened to get the cabin filter housing out





5c) Shows you what the Torx screw looks like





5d) Take out all 4 screws using a T30 Torx Screwdriver





5e) Pull the housing towards you and it comes right off


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Last edited by dsm918; Wed, Dec-07-2011 at 12:59:24 PM.
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 02:28:12 AM   #2
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6a) Unscrew the 2 hose clamps located on the intake hose





6b) Push off the 2 clamps holding the filter housing





6c) Pull off the complete intake hose. You might have to wiggle it a little to get it off





6d) The plastic piece in front of the Air Filter housing comes off if you pull to the right and then pull it up





6e) Picture says it all





7a) Pull out this hose as shown. This hose is located right next to the intake hose.





7b) Hose off





7c) Remove this hose using the same method as described in 7a. This is located on top of the intake near the cabin filter housing




Here is a video as well >>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XHbkecsKFU


7d) Hose off





7e) This hose was a ***** to take off. Use the same method as 7a and 7c except you might need pliers to press it in.





8) This figure shows the 3 other attachments that need to be released. Located under the intake





9) Release the hoses from the clamps located between the intake and the firewall. All you need to do is pull them off so they are clear




10) Hose clamps can be very very confusing if you don't know how. Follow the instructions in the picture and watch the video





Video>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXTU_0qaVqU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCSzI4w9r8w


11a) Intake off




11b) Shows all the connection at the bottom of the intake so you have a good idea of what all needs to be disconnected before you yank the intake off





11c) I drew this using two pictures. The picture on top shows the bottom of the intake with all the connections that need to come off before you attempt to pull off the intake.I took this picture with the intake totally off the car.

The bottom picture shows the corresponding locations of where they connect

NOTE - Treat these as 2 separate pictures and it will be much easier to understand. I thought this picture was important so you know what all to disconnect before you end up pulling on the intake with something still connected.



PLUG = This is the same plug I described in Figure 7e

10mm Nuts= These are the same ones I have show in Figure 8

Slide Off = I have shown this connection in Figure 8

Drain = This has to be released by either pulling from the outside of the intake or by putting your hand inside the intake and pushing it out

Power wire = This is the only connection that is not visible and you have to feel your way to it and unbolt it from the starter. Figure 11d shows a partial view of this with the intake in place. I just shoved the camera under the intake and clicked to take this picture (see below)



Here is another picture of the item I titled "Drain". It is hose that connects to the bottom of the intake. It clicks into place. To remove it, I just pulled it.



UPDATE 05/18/10

EDIT PICTURE 11d)

Thanks to user "wingsAA" for the tip. The power wire does not need to be opened blindly. Apparently the wire comes off the intake clamp. Follow pictures below:


Image of the clip holding the hose



Image of the clip



Just pull up on the outside of the clip. It will slide upwards as shown below:



Here is the clip fully removed



Here is a video of how this clip comes off >>>>>>>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR3Ra4nT-CY
Once the intake is off, use this tool (Gear Wrench 9221 Torx Ratcheting Wrench E10 x E12) to open the 2 bolts located behind the starter. Make sure you buy the ratcheting wrench or you will spend an hour opening it.

Here is a picture of the Torx Wrench. You need Size 12. You can get this exact wrench on Amazon.



What gave me grief on the starter was not the bolts as much but the pin that the starter slides into. That pin was corroded and even though I had the bolts off, I had to hammer the starter around to get it loose. Make sure you wirebrush that pin clean before putting on the new starter.





The red circles show the location of the 2 bolts and the red square shows the Pin that gave me grief.



Line up the new starter and tighten the 2 bolts Connect the 3 wires to the starter and tighten the bolts.



Also spray down the MAF cleaner and the intake with the MAF cleaner



ASSEMBLY

Put the intake back on and push on it till all 6 hoses are fully in. Make sure all 6 hose clamps are already in place as described in the picture below or you'll not be able to lock them in place. Follow the procedure shown in the picture below to lock the clamps.





Video >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5zFMmfM9Y0


-Make sure all connections below the intake are connected and the two 10mm bolts are lined up and tightened as well.

-Plug back the hoses that you had removed on the top and the side (Figure 7a and 7c)

-Remember to plug the MAF sensor back in.

NOTE-When you connect the big hose to the intake a good way to line it up is to make sure that the two marks (one on the intake and the other on the hose) line up (see picture below)




All done

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Last edited by dsm918; Wed, Mar-02-2011 at 12:40:53 AM.
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 05:57:57 AM   #3
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Wow, this is possibly the best DIY I've seen on here. The exact instructions really make it possible for just about anyone to do this. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 06:12:49 AM   #4
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props to OP for the most detailed DIY i have ever seen! +1
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 07:46:52 AM   #5
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i'm going to be referring back to this a lot in the future. One of the best write ups I've seen in a while!
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 08:02:33 AM   #6
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i was gonna do one when i replace that cable that u were cleaning (long story) but u did it for me now, thanks
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 08:24:58 AM   #7
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 12:11:34 PM   #8
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Fantastic DIY! I told you, this is one of those jobs that seem like a pain, but if you were to do again, it would take 1/4 of the time.

This needs to be a sticky because in the past few months, I have helped half a dozen people with this same exact issue. These steps are outlined perfectly and this certainly is a weak spot on the M3.

GREAT WRITE UP!!!!!!! Now I don't have to keep PMing everyone directions. haha

Mr. Wolfe
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 12:56:33 PM   #9
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thanks for the DIY. Now I know where the starter is and how to get to it.
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Old Tue, Mar-09-2010, 01:07:33 PM   #10
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Nice write up. This will be handy for any access to that side of the engine.
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Discussing Intermittent Starting Issue-Complete DIY-Starter Replacement (Intake Removal) in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)