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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Mon, May-25-2009, 11:40:24 PM   #1
JordanButters
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Default Engine Temp Running at Little Over Half

So just recently the car has started operating at just a needle width over half on the temp gauge. So I changed to coolant to straight water and 2 things of water wetter, bled the system over and over and its still doing it. I believe the fan clutch to be a little bit bad because if i put some thick cardboard it will stop after about 3 revolutions. Will that cause it to still run that temp during driving though? Isn't the fan disengaged after 20ish mph? The only thing I can think of is that it is running in safe mode right now because I pulled the baffles out of the airbox and it threw a cel and now gets 20mpg. Would being in safe mode cause it to run a bit hot? Thanks guys, any thoughts or confirmations will be appreciated.
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Old Mon, May-25-2009, 11:54:41 PM   #2
OahuMPower
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safe mode

if the needle has moved from middle, then it's already gotten too hot.. the BMW water temp gauge is an "idiot" gauge.. it stays in the middle within a certain range....

I would check to make sure the water pump is still good and that the radiator isnt clogged.. also possible the thermostat is bad...

how many miles on the car, when was the last cooling system maintenance done?

what year, build date would also help
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Old Mon, May-25-2009, 11:55:10 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ******Butters View Post
So just recently the car has started operating at just a needle width over half on the temp gauge. So I changed to coolant to straight water and 2 things of water wetter, bled the system over and over and its still doing it. I believe the fan clutch to be a little bit bad because if i put some thick cardboard it will stop after about 3 revolutions. Will that cause it to still run that temp during driving though? Isn't the fan disengaged after 20ish mph? The only thing I can think of is that it is running in safe mode right now because I pulled the baffles out of the airbox and it threw a cel and now gets 20mpg. Would being in safe mode cause it to run a bit hot? Thanks guys, any thoughts or confirmations will be appreciated.
When you say straight water, do you mean faucet water? That's besides the point, why run the cooling system with only water and water wetter? Only because of the water wetter claims? I think that's the problem.
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:12:30 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by falciott View Post
When you say straight water, do you mean faucet water? That's besides the point, why run the cooling system with only water and water wetter? Only because of the water wetter claims? I think that's the problem.
straight water is a better conduit to transfer heat... and water wetter DOES help...

most race cars that only see "warm" weather run ONLY h20 and water wetter. because it keeps the motor cooler

the issue is, people live in cold climates and coolant is required to keep the water from freezing, thus the "usual" 50/50 mix h20 and coolant
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:18:36 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by OahuMPower View Post
straight water is a better conduit to transfer heat... and water wetter DOES help...

most race cars that only see "warm" weather run ONLY h20 and water wetter. because it keeps the motor cooler

the issue is, people live in cold climates and coolant is required to keep the water from freezing, thus the "usual" 50/50 mix h20 and coolant
Hey, what's up Cal?!! Straight water= cheap!! ......nahh I keed I keed, but I shall look into that then
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:21:15 AM   #6
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Yeah I had to go look it up. The cooling system was done by the dealership just about a year ago, new t-stat, system flush, new coolant, and water pump. This was with the previous owner. Would that stuff fail within a year?

It is distilled water. Trust me I read all about it.

It is a 1997, built in May. No mods other than the airbox baffle removal and yes just because it sounds nicer.

Another thing I just noticed, it never says full cold anymore, i.e. how when you start the car it will be a little below full cold now it is just at the end. Is it possible the needle has shifted some how? Thanks.
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:22:42 AM   #7
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Hey, what's up Cal?!! Straight water= cheap!! ......nahh I keed I keed, but I shall look into that then
whats up man... hawaii you COULD run straight h20... but I would still recommend a mix of coolant...

when I was in HI.. I ran like a 70/30 mix of distilled water to coolant and 2 bottles of water wetter...

actually what I'm STILL running right now
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Originally Posted by ******Butters View Post
Yeah I had to go look it up. The cooling system was done by the dealership just about a year ago, new t-stat, system flush, new coolant, and water pump. This was with the previous owner. Would that stuff fail within a year?

It is distilled water. Trust me I read all about it.

It is a 1997, built in May. No mods other than the airbox baffle removal and yes just because it sounds nicer.

Another thing I just noticed, it never says full cold anymore, i.e. how when you start the car it will be a little below full cold now it is just at the end. Is it possible the needle has shifted some how? Thanks.
possible... has anyone taken apart the gauge cluster for gauge faces or anything of the sort?
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:25:16 AM   #8
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No it looks completely untouched and it only started doing this a few days ago.
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:27:31 AM   #9
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Sounds like the calibration on the temp gauge is off - not sure what would have caused that if you havent messed with the cluster but it certainly sounds that way if it wont sit at full cold as well as rides a bit above half normally...
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Old Tue, May-26-2009, 12:30:25 AM   #10
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What CEL code is being thrown? I'd find this out first and don't drive the car anymore until you figure out the overheating issue.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ******Butters View Post
Yeah I had to go look it up. The cooling system was done by the dealership just about a year ago, new t-stat, system flush, new coolant, and water pump. This was with the previous owner. Would that stuff fail within a year?
Also possible the "new" t-stat is bad or wasn't actually replaced but someone was charged for it.

Generally speaking this situation is commonly related to a bad thermostat. Have you tried lightly tapping on the t-stat housing while it was running.
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Discussing Engine Temp Running at Little Over Half in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)