[Anubis]

When I first wrote this thread, it was in response to many questions I received about projector retrofits (because at the time I was in the process of finishing my TSX retrofit), but it has evolved into a semi-comprehensive guide on HID lighting in the E36. I've tried to stick with basic, objective, info about HIDs ("xenons"). I learned this stuff (and still learn about it) by reading and reading and reading about it on various websites and forums (like HIDplanet).

This thread assumes some very basic knowledge about HID systems. If you'd like to know more about the basics of HIDs, I suggest you check out Wikipedia's section on HIDs.

Anyway, assuming you've read that or that you know what HIDs are, let's move onto the specific lighting setups available for the E36:

Stock E36 lighting in the US:

Stock US plastic headlights have 9006 reflectors in both the low and high beam. Using 9006 rebased HID bulbs in stock US plastic headlights is the worst thing that you can do with your lighting. Not only are there hotspots everywhere, the glare caused to other drivers is extreme. Do not, under ANY circumstances, install HIDs in US plastic headlights unless you really have no regard for other drivers.

European reflectors:
Many of the stock E36 lights in continental Europe (UK excluded) are Bosch H7 halogen reflectors. These lights are slightly more suited to HIDs than the US plastic lights, but it is not remotely acceptable to run HIDs in H7 reflectors. If you have Euro H7 reflectors, you should run halogen bulbs, just like with US reflectors.

European ellipsoids:

What's important to know is that for the E36 in general, there is only one truly OEM HID solution, which is the Hella Euro Xenon Celis kit. These sell new for $1500-1600. They have proper HID projectors in the low beams and self-leveling motors and all sorts of interesting goodies. They are, tragically, hideous (due to their chrome surroundings). Most people do not purchase these lights, and instead buy Bosch, ZKW, Hella (Euro Celis, not Euro Xenon Celis), DEPO, Apexcone, *******, or DJAuto "euro" ellipsoids for their E36. These lights have H1 halogen projectors in the low beams, and H1 halogen reflectors in the high beams. These lights are better suited to HIDs than reflectors, but are not ideal for HIDs. See the next section.

Halogen projectors in Euro ellipsoids:

The E36 euro ellipsoid headlights, with H1 halogen projectors, were designed for H1 halogen bulbs. The cutoff shield features huge "upticks" to the right (or left, in RHD countries), in order to illuminate road signs with the halogen bulbs. The optics of the projector also focus most of the relatively weak halogen bulbs directly forward, and do not feature a very wide beam pattern. When used with HIDs, however, these lights become somewhat dangerous. They cause unacceptable amounts of glare to oncoming drivers, and because of their halogen E-code upticks, blind oncoming drivers in right-hand curves and drivers on the right on multi-lane roads.

Because these projectors send much of the light directly forward, they create significant hotspots in the center of beam pattern, which are quite a bit above the acceptable level of illumination. This amount of light leads drivers to believe that their lights are brighter, and therefore safer. However, in reality, these very bright hotspots cause tunnel-vision and significant eye strain and fatigue.

Any projector that is not designed for HID bulbs and instead relies on a "rebased" kit (such as the H1 kits sold for E36 euro ellipsoids) is subject to all these problems, and is not an proper HID solution, and using HID kits in these projectors is not by any means ideal.

Cutoff modding on halogen projectors:

One option for those who do not want to retrofit proper HID projectors and use their halogen projectors with HIDs is to "mod" their cutoff shield. There is a DIY on bimmerforums here: ZKW/DEPO cutoff mod. Modifying your cutoffs to be horizontal (or with a slight horizontal rise as is the proper HID cutoff) allows you to aim your lights at their proper level (many people compensate for the E-code upticks by aiming their lights too low) and is a decent solution for improving the safety of HIDs in halogen projectors. Halogen projectors with modified cutoffs will still create more hotspots and can still cause unacceptable glare to other drivers, but it is a much better solution than leaving the ECE upticks intact. Modded halogen projectors will still have hotspots and a relatively narrow beam.

HID Projectors:

Proper HID projectors are usually manufactured by Stanley, Koito, Bosch, AL, Magneti Marelli, Valeo, ZKW, or Hella. These HID projectors accept D2S or D1S (other bulbs like D3S and D4S, which are mercury-free, are sometimes used, but usually D2S or D1S) capsules made by Philips or Osram-Sylvania, who are the only two OEM suppliers of HID capsules (bulbs).

In lighting systems that utilize proper HID projectors, there will be little or no glare caused to other drivers (this depends on headlight design), there will be a solid, horizontal, defined cutoff pattern with a slight horizontal uptick, and most importantly, NO HOTSPOTS.

The ideal lighting is a very balanced and even spread of light (with a gradual brightness increase towards the center, but no hotspots). This can only be achieved with proper HID projectors.

Here are four photos, for comparison's sake, to show the difference between HIDs when used in halogen reflectors (massive glare and extremely dangerous to other drivers), halogen projectors (some glare and somewhat dangerous to other driver), and HID projectors (no glare and not dangerous to other drivers):

Typical halogen reflectors with HIDs: (note the numerous hotspots and inconsistent beam pattern)



E36 ZKW halogen projectors with HIDs: (note the massive upticks in the cutoff and the pronounced double-hotspot)



FX35 bi-xenon HID projector low beam:



FX35 bi-xenon HID projector low and high beam: (and halogen high beams too - quad high beam)



Projector retrofits and costs:

Now, on to the issue of retrofits, and costs. In general, E36 euro ellipsoids can be had from anywhere from $150 to $1000. If you want to retrofit HID projectors into an E36, the best solution is to buy a cheaper headlight with decent build quality. DEPO Gen IV ellipsoids are a great choice, because they're cheap ($125-150) and are somewhat easy to retrofit. I used ZKWs for my TSX retrofit, but using DEPOs is easier in a few ways. This isn't a retrofit DIY - those can be found on bimmerforums easily.

If considering a projector retrofit, then you have to make an important decision - what projectors, ballasts, and bulbs to buy. In general, TSX or FX35/FX-R projectors are a very popular choice for the E36 because of their design and their output. Other people have retrofitted E46 or Audi Valeo projectors, and have had good results. Be aware that some projectors (like the TL and LS430) will not fit into the E36 headlights because of their design. In general, most 2.5" projectors will fit, and most 3" projectors will not. There are exceptions, but the most common path is to use TSX single-xenon or FX35/FX-R bi-xenon. These days, the FX-R seems to the be the projector of choice. Incredibly sharp cutoff, bi-xenon, and low cost makes it absolutely the best option for retrofitting.

As far as ballasts are concerned, a good choice is the OEM Philips/Hella LVQ212 ballast. These "Gen 3" ballasts are widely copied (there are numerous replicas on the market, especially on eBay). The real ballasts are labeled as Philips or Hella. They have integrated ignitors. Other good ballast choices are the OEM ballasts from the projectors chosen to be retrofitted (FX35 ballasts/ignitors are a good example). Replica ballasts (ballasts that look like the LVQ212/Gen 3) in general are not a good idea, as many are cheap knock-offs, and can and will fail much sooner. Some aftermarket ballasts can be good, but in general, OEM is a better bet. In addition to the OEM ballasts, there are newer "digital" aftermarket ballasts that offer low-startup current, which generally means that one does not need to run a separate wiring harness for the HIDs (although I will always advocate for relayed wiring harnesses). These ballasts can almost match the reliability of OEM HID ballasts, and are much cheaper.

Another alternative to the Philips/Hella ballast is the Denso Slim ballast. These newer type ballasts have cap-type ignitors that sit on the back of the projector rather that in the ballast. They are very solid and probably more reliable than the Hella ballasts, and are often much cheaper and easier to find, especially these days.

D2S capsule choice is generally the Philips 85122+ or 85122. Philips 85122+ capsules have a slightly higher color temperature than the older 85122 bulbs, and these are usually meant as replacement bulbs to match the higher color temperature of older D2S capsules that slowly increase in color temperature. Some people prefer to use 85122+ bulbs, some do not. 85122+ bulbs are a bit more resistant to colorshifting. There are also Philips 85123 bulbs, which are standard 35W D2S capsules that are made especially for BMW. The reason is mostly unknown, but they appear to have a very slightly higher color temperature. In general, the standard D2S HID capsule is the 85122. The 85122+ is a suitable alternative, and is often more expensive. The 85123 is harder to find, and more expensive because of its scarcity. There are other D2S capsules made by Osram or Philips, but in general the 85122 or 85122+ are the best choice. These days I would suggest going with a pair of 85122+.

As an example, here is the approximate cost of a projector retrofit:
New DEPO Gen IV headlights - $135
New FX-R projectors - $135
New Denso Slim ballasts - $165
New Philips 85122 capsules (bulbs) - $95
HID wiring harness = $30
Total = $565

The DEPO+FX-R setup is arguably the best lighting setup for the money. You're not gaining much going from DEPO to ZKW or Bosch when you tear out the low beam projectors. You get better glass and better plastics with ZKW or Bosch, but I'm not sure whether that's worth $300 when the output will be the same. The high beams on the ZKW or Bosch are a little better, but they are irrelevant due to the bi-xenon FX-Rs.

Links to the retrofit DIYs that I used:
DIY– TSX Projector Retrofit into ZKW Headlights with Lens “Pupils” (>60 Pics) - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
TSX retrofit into Depo housing - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
ZKW with TSX retrofit and Hella D2s done! (TONS of pix) - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
ZKW TSX Projector DIY - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

Wiring harness and electrical concerns:
Upon initial startup, HID bulbs can draw up to 20 amps for a very brief moment. This is far more than the 4.5A that 55W 12V halogens use. As a result of this, you will blow fuses, and your stock wiring can slowly be damaged by amperage spikes upon HID startup, and can even melt! The solution is NOT to increase your fuses, which are there to protect your stock wiring. The solution is a proper, relayed wiring harness that powers off the battery. For more information, see this thread.

There are new, digital ballasts on the market that do not draw as much start-up current, which MAY make them safe to use in your E36 without running a relayed wiring harness. I still recommend a relayed wiring harness, but you will throw a LBF error with a wiring harness, almost certainly. You should be able to run digital ballasts without upping your stock fuses - if this is the case, then you should be ok. However, if you notice your gauges dipping when turning on your HIDs, you should run a wiring harness and disable the LBF if you so desire (using the DIY in this thread.)

Why do it?
For ~$500 and about 10-12 hours of your time (my first retrofit took me about 10 hours, and then another 2 hours or so of aiming), you can have an amazing light setup that will last (OEM quality) and will illuminate the road more safely for you and for other drivers.

Note: a retrofit not a project for the hasty or the impatient. It will take a lot of planning and ingenuity on your part to complete a successful retrofit. For those who do not like tinkering and all of the aspects that go along with what is essentially a custom headlight setup, a retrofit is not the best choice unless you want to shell out some extra dough and go for a Lightwerkz retrofit (he does excellent work but it is expensive). For those who want a simple, plug-and-play upgrade to their headlights, I would recommend picking up a set of Euro ellipsoids (preferably Bosch or ZKW) and running some high-quality halogen bulbs (Osram Night Breaker, Philips Xtreme Power, Narva Rangepower). That setup will provide excellent output without the hassle of HID ballasts and the safety concerns of HIDs in halogen headlights (glare, hotspots, etc.).

Nick's Lighting FAQ videos:
Nick (fiveightandten) has made 4 short videos about E36 lighting, and has put them on YouTube. Here's his thread with the four videos. It doesn't cover the exact same information here, and isn't as easily updated, but they are good videos and if you have little to no knowledge about HIDs or E36 lighting, check them out.

[Tony Soprano]

i rock the most hated, HID in stock housing and have never been flashed. i in fact had my wife follow me in the M3 and didnt notice it to be HORRIBLE at all. i could tell it wasnt OEM, but it wasnt typcal ***** blinding that usually seen.

the best HID systems are OEM systems, so really unless your car left the factory with them, then you shouldnt even bother. spending 500+ on HIDs isnt worth it at all.

but my rant aside, very well written FAQ.

[fiveightandten]

Great writeup. You may want to make mention of the current demands of HID ballasts during the startup sequence and inform people that there is always a risk of damage to the stock wiring in the car if you elect to go without a wiring harness/relay setup.

Also, in pretty much every state that I know of, adding HID's aftermarket is illegal. So if cops crack down on that stuff in your area, it's something to consider.

[Anubis]

Originally Posted by fiveightandten

Great writeup. You may want to make mention of the current demands of HID ballasts during the startup sequence and inform people that there is always a risk of damage to the stock wiring in the car if you elect to go without a wiring harness/relay setup.

Also, in pretty much every state that I know of, adding HID's aftermarket is illegal. So if cops crack down on that stuff in your area, it's something to consider.

Will do.

[fiveightandten]

Originally Posted by Tony Soprano

i rock the most hated, HID in stock housing and have never been flashed. i in fact had my wife follow me in the M3 and didnt notice it to be HORRIBLE at all. i could tell it wasnt OEM, but it wasnt typcal ***** blinding that usually seen.

the best HID systems are OEM systems, so really unless your car left the factory with them, then you shouldnt even bother. spending 500+ on HIDs isnt worth it at all.

but my rant aside, very well written FAQ.

1) You spend that much if you have to purchase Xenons as an option from the dealer.

2) A retrofit is the act of putting an OE HID system in the car. That's the whole point. The best systems *are* OE. That's why you do a retrofit. I've rolled up next to TSX's in my car (TSX retrofit), and you can't tell the difference in light output. Why? because my lights are the SAME thing. The headlight housing doesn't make a bit of difference.

Also, his numbers are conservative. I spent about $300, not including lights.

[KnudsonsM3]

Spent 200 on Depo Hids (35w) and they are perfect (no labor either). Another 40 bux i could have had 55w. Spending 650 on that sounds obsurd.

Good write up though Jeff. Keep em coming.

[LightWerkz]

Basically what Jeff is saying is that there is no subsitute for a OEM retrofitted set of projectors. Like he said there is only one true option for a real oem hid setup and it costs a lot of money. Everything such as aftermarket depo lights sold out of the box is basically junk in terms of lightoutput, but yes they do look pretty.

As mentioned, only a few manufacturers for OEM bulbs, but more then two as mentioned. I dont agree with your statement on the using the Hella ballasts only, in fact I could care less for those ballasts. Aftermarket 55w ballasts are a nice way to get added light output without modding your own projectors, and even better it comes with a warranty. Of course oem systems dont need 55w, who is complaining about more?

The Philips 85122+ is just a bulb thats more resistant to color shifting. Its a bit yellower, but still 4300k bulb. These are the best bulbs IMHO.

[Anubis]

Originally Posted by fiveightandten

1) You spend that much if you have to purchase Xenons as an option from the dealer.

2) A retrofit is the act of putting an OE HID system in the car. That's the whole point. The best systems *are* OE. That's why you do a retrofit. I've rolled up next to TSX's in my car (TSX retrofit), and you can't tell the difference in light output. Why? because my lights are the SAME thing. The headlight housing doesn't make a bit of difference.

Also, his numbers are conservative. I spent about $300, not including lights.

Updated the thread.

Originally Posted by KnudsonsM3

Spent 200 on Depo Hids (35w) and they are perfect (no labor either). Another 40 bux i could have had 55w. Spending 650 on that sounds obsurd.

Good write up though Jeff. Keep em coming.

It's not absurd at all. HIDs are an $800 option on the new 1-series. Considering what you are getting - a properly safe OEM HID solution, it's not a lot. Plus, my prices were very conservative. You can probably piece together a kit with used ballasts and projectors for ~$300 if you get lucky with eBay or are very patient.

[Anubis]

Originally Posted by LightWerkz

Basically what Jeff is saying is that there is no subsitute for a OEM retrofitted set of projectors. Like he said there is only one true option for a real oem hid setup and it costs a lot of money. Everything such as aftermarket depo lights sold out of the box is basically junk in terms of lightoutput, but yes they do look pretty.

As mentioned, only a few manufacturers for OEM bulbs, but more then two as mentioned. I dont agree with your statement on the using the Hella ballasts only, in fact I could care less for those ballasts. Aftermarket 55w ballasts are a nice way to get added light output without modding your own projectors, and even better it comes with a warranty. Of course oem systems dont need 55w, who is complaining about more?

The Philips 85122+ is just a bulb thats more resistant to color shifting. Its a bit yellower, but still 4300k bulb. These are the best bulbs IMHO.

I've updated the thread to be a bit more objective about ballasts. I stand by the fact that Philips and Osram-Sylvania are the only two OEM manufacturers of HID capsules. Other companies (such as GE) that claim to make OEM HID capsules are taking Philips or Osram-Sylvania bulbs and rebranding them, in much the same way that O2 sensors are made by NTK, but stamped Siemens and Bosch, depending on who sold them.

[epj3]

My retrofit is an FX35 bi-xenon projector. I wanted bi-xenon because I use my high beams a LOT, and the dipped beam output wasn't substantially different than the TSX to give up on the better high beam.

I spent between 8-10 hours doing the retrofit in my free time, and maybe another 2-5 hours aiming them, and eventually cutting the glass that goes in front of the projector. The retrofit isn't perfect but 99.9% of people wouldn't notice the things that bother me.

My costs:

Depo Gen IV's: $200
FX35 Projectors WITH OEM (to the FX35) ballasts, ignitors, and used bulbs: $200
Misc hardware and wiring harness. including BMW OEM wiring parts: $65

Total: $465