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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Sun, Aug-26-2007, 07:54:32 PM   #1
kajtek123
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Default e36 overheating

hi
my e36 started to overheat yesterday. replaced water pump, thermostat, radiator 10k ago. also replaced new thermostat again yesterday-still overheats. the air comes out cool from vents when set to max temp. also, the electric fan doesn't turn on when temp is 3/4 high but it does start when the A/C is on.
any ideas
thanks

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Old Sun, Aug-26-2007, 07:57:45 PM   #2
RoodAwakening
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Originally Posted by kajtek123 View Post
hi
my e36 started to overheat yesterday. replaced water pump, thermostat, radiator 10k ago. also replaced new thermostat again yesterday-still overheats. the air comes out cool from vents when set to max temp.
any ideas
thanks
Defective fan clutch or motor.
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2007, 08:47:17 PM   #3
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Defective fan clutch or motor.
+1...
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2007, 09:00:38 PM   #4
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I'm assuming you've checked the coolant level as well. If you've recently replaced/added a decent quantity of coolant you may need to do a proper bleed of the system to get the coolant to circulate properly. If not, I agree with what the others have said.
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2007, 09:02:05 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by RoodAwakening View Post
Defective fan clutch or motor.
Quote:
+1...
Wrong...

There is a cooling circulation issue, either water pump or improper bleeding. Stating that the air blows out cold when set to max temp is an immediate sign.

Try rebleeding the system. This time park the car on an gentle incline. Fill it up with water/coolant and squeeze the lower and upper rad hoses to help pump the water around. Once the system is topped off, start the car and wait for it to get to middle temp. Set the heater to full heat, and full fan. Rev the car to 2.5k and hold it for a min to get the water circulating into the block and heater core. Keep an eye on temp, dont let the car overheat. Once you feel heat coming out of the vents you know you've got water in the entire system, it's just a matter of topping off the reservoir and cracking the bleed screw to get every last air bubble out.

As for the electric fan not coming on, check your connections, and final stage unit.
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2007, 11:03:30 PM   #6
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^+1. You have air trapped in the system. This might explain coolant not reaching the heater core.
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Old Mon, Aug-27-2007, 11:44:22 PM   #7
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stupid ?'s but do you have the heat selector on the hot side? It is the dial located just below the center vent on the left. it has nothing to do with the car overheating but may explain why there is no heat.

+1 on the air thing although it seems strange that it would start doing this after 10k miles and not right away..

As far as the fan not comming on it may be a bad temp sensor. i belive that there are two on these cars.
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Old Thu, Aug-30-2007, 03:01:55 AM   #8
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ok guys, the water pump i installed (plastic one) broke so that only the shaft was spinning. put a new metal one this time-learned my lesson
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Old Thu, Aug-30-2007, 03:23:12 AM   #9
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ok guys, the water pump i installed (plastic one) broke so that only the shaft was spinning. put a new metal one this time-learned my lesson
Composite is the way to go. Metal has bearing failures. Plastic shatters. Composite is the only ones you can get these days from BMW. I assume you had a composite one.

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Discussing e36 overheating in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)