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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 06:40:31 AM   #1
Brandon318
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Default DIY - Change Power Steering Fluid

Power steering fluid is one of the most neglected operating fluids, one that rarely gets checked, or even more - replaced. According to Mike Miller, tech guru for Roundel, even when BMW had a viable maintenance schedule, the company never had a recommended power steering fluid change interval. Hopefully this write-up will help some of you guys complete this ignored task.

These are the supplies I used:
10mm wrench
Flat screwdriver
3/8-inch drive ratchet
1/4-inch drive ratchet
3-inch extension
8mm socket
22mm socket
Torque wrench
Fluid pump (available at any auto supply store for a few bucks)
2 - 14x20 aluminum washers (BMW P/N 32 41 1 093 596)



Begin by lifting the front of the car. I used jack stands to support the car and placed ramps underneath “just in-case”.



Now, you don’t have to remove the air cleaner box to complete this project, but it may make it easier for you to fill the reservoir. It didn’t matter much to me, since I have the fluid pump. Nonetheless, here’s how you remove the air cleaner box:

Use the screwdriver to unclip the two clips.



Loosen the two nuts with a 10mm wrench (a socket can work here as well).



Pop the duct off, it just snaps on.



Next, pull the air box out. This is what you get; notice the power steering fluid reservoir.

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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 06:41:06 AM   #2
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Now it’s time to move underneath the car…

Place a bucket or catch-pan beneath the power steering pump. The banjo bolt to be removed is circled below.



Use the 22mm socket to loosen the bolt. Some fluid will begin to spill, and when it does, let it drain a bit before completely removing the bolt. Once the trickle slows down, remove the bolt completely.







With the bolt removed and the hose over the bucket, turn on the car, but do not start it. Rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to work more of the fluid out.



Once any sizeable amount of fluid stops spurting out, turn off the car and go back underneath.

Clean up the banjo bolt and replace the washers. Bolt the hose back up and tighten to 30 ft-lbs.

So far we’ve emptied the reservoir, pump, and some of the rack, but we still need to remove a bit more from the rack and the return hose. Let’s begin by unclamping the hose attached to the reservoir; there are two, but I’m referring to the port-side hose.

This is the hose:





I used the 8mm socket to loosen the hose clamp, but a screwdriver can work too.



Once the hose clamp is loose, detach the hose and position into the bucket. You may spill a small amount, so have a rag handy.

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Last edited by Brandon318; Sat, Jun-30-2012 at 06:15:33 PM.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 06:41:37 AM   #3
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With the hose firmly placed in the bucket, turn on the car, but do not start it. Once again, turn the wheel lock to lock until fluid stops coming out.



After that’s finished, reattach the hose and tighten the clamp.

If you removed the air box, pour some fresh ATF in the reservoir. If you left the air box installed and opted for the pump method, pump some fresh ATF into the reservoir.



Go into the car and turn it on, but do not start it. Turn the wheel lock to lock about five times. Top off the reservoir.

If you removed the air box, now is the time to reinstall it. Installation is reverse of removal.

Now, START the car. Once the car is running, turn the wheel lock to lock to bleed the system. Keep the reservoir full (it will soak-up ATF quickly). Once the system stops taking fluid, turn the car off, and secure the reservoir cap.

Lower the car and you’re done.





If for some reason these pictures aren't showing, PM me and I'll send you them.
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Last edited by Brandon318; Sat, Jun-30-2012 at 06:17:40 PM.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 06:44:39 AM   #4
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Thanks man. Stored away in my mental library.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 07:40:22 AM   #5
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Those were very good and well detailed instructions with great pics. Good job, I'm sure many members will use this.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 11:46:10 AM   #6
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Im assuming this is what I need to do before replacing the resevoir and that hose? That is, everything prior to refilling of course. Have a pretty good leak from the attachment of that hose to the resevoir right now. Have you replaced this hose? Saw an old thread on Bimmerforums that lasted about ten pages, got off the subject a little. Still confused as to the hose I should get.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 01:12:17 PM   #7
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your car is in immaculate condition
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 02:32:21 PM   #8
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The fluid you ran, that's just Mobil 1 ATF, right? Sorry for the off color question.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 03:22:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lola1
Im assuming this is what I need to do before replacing the resevoir and that hose? That is, everything prior to refilling of course. Have a pretty good leak from the attachment of that hose to the resevoir right now. Have you replaced this hose? Saw an old thread on Bimmerforums that lasted about ten pages, got off the subject a little. Still confused as to the hose I should get.
No, I haven't replaced the hose. When I first bought the car, it had a leak, but I fixed it by replacing the clamps. It's been dry ever since.
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Old Tue, Dec-19-2006, 03:23:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnkyBiz
The fluid you ran, that's just Mobil 1 ATF, right? Sorry for the off color question.
Yes. Any Dexron ATF will do, however.
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Discussing DIY - Change Power Steering Fluid in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)