BMW M3 Forum
BMW M3 Forum BMW M3 Gallery BMW M3 Reviews BMW M3 Social Groups BMW M3 Chat M3Forum Sponsors >>
Loading


Mobile M3forum
Go Back   BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X) > BMW M3 Discussions > E46 M3 (2001-2006)
Tire Rack Buy Winter Tires Now!
Not a member? Register Now!
Gallery All Albums Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar FAQ

E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 09:33:28 PM   #1
VinceSE2
FKA VinceSE
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,116
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 VinceSE2 is on a distinguished road
Location: Åkarp

Sweden




Default Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Installation of the Vince style RACP reinforcement/load relief-kit WITHOUT:

• Any welding

• Needing to completely remove the subframe/rear axle

• Removing brake hoses and bleeding brakes



Based on several requests I've lately been working on a complete kit (including a finished rear bar) that is DIY-friendly for a wider audience.

As most members don't own or have easy access to a welder/welding guy, and many prefer not welding on the car, installation w/o welding has been top priority.



And as many already have plates welded or epoxied to the underside of the RACP, and thus are not willing to completely drop the rear axle/subframe (but still understand the need for more than "just" the plates) I have also worked out a revised installation procedure.

This procedure only requires the exhaust (section two at a minimum), plastic and aluminum shields, subframe bolts, the handbrake cables (at the handle), and the lower rear shock bolts to be removed to allow enough room to get the factory front bolts/studs removed.



The new kit and procedures is being presented and documented in this thread. I'll be adding content during the coming weeks.



In the meantime here's a picture of the kit itself. This is roughly what I'm planning it'll include.









And here is where the components go:

















KIT CONTENT

•x

•y

•etc





WHAT YOU NEED TO GET IN ADDITION TO THE KIT

•Epoxy

•Applicator gun



REQUIRED TOOLS

•Vacuum cleaner (I'm not joking, you will want to regularly remove steel shavings etc as you are progressing through the steps)

•High lifting floor jack and high jack stands OR a lift and a transmission jack.

•Pop rivet gun

•Power drill

•Angle grinder (and as thin discs as possible)

•Dremmel with cutting and grinding discs

•Adjustable wrench able to open at least 30mm

•A small sledgehammer

•A reasonable selection of wrenches etc





INTRODUCTION



RACP failure analysis and prevention of failure progression.



In the thread below you will find:

• My analysis of why I believe the E46 RACP (Rear Axle Carrier Panel) fails

• And how this kit provides substantial load relief of the weak areas of the RACP (how and why it works)



http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...p?p=1067164063



The RACP of the specific vehicle pictured in this thread has, as you can see in my pictures, both failed AND been repaired twice before.



The PO of the PO had stitched it together after a rather severe failure. This failure had occurred even though a very common repair and reinforcement ("TMS-style plates") had previously been carried out by some PO (unknown to me).

The plates can be seen in a these pictures:















These pictures are copied from this post

http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?...=asc&start=168

which shows how the PO of the PO repaired the severely failed RACP.



Even after these reinforcements and repairs the current owner, member Flash_malmö, reported the popping and squeaking sounds present in this video clip






PREPARATION

Removing the rear seat and trunk liners.



You will need to remove the rear seat bench (comes loose with a decisive upward pull at the center of the front) as well as the back rests (theres a torx bolt between the two sections. To gain access to the top of the front mounts.



You will also need to remove the side bolsters (a plastic screw at the top next to the seat belt passage, a plastic clip that you loosen from the trunk side, and finally the kind of slide in clip you will need to lift the bolster to slide it out of) in order to be able to remove the trunk liners on each side.



Here you can see the hole in which the plastic screw goes, and a (broken) clip. A PO has broken both. The tips are however replaceable. PN is 52208099555







Removing the sheet metal brackets to make room for the drill and the "pipe gussets".







Loosening the parking brake wires



In order to later be able to drop the rear axle/subframe enough to remove the factory front subframe studs, you will also need to loosen the parking brake cables from the lever by completely removing the nuts from the cables.

Basically you simply undo the nuts found under the leather boot of the P-brake lever.

I choose to remove the whole consol as it makes things easier.





Lifting the car



Ideally you have access to a lift and a gearbox jack. The latter to support, lower and lift the rear axle during the procedure.



As I don't have a lift in my garage I did the lifting in sequences with a large floor jack and tall jack stands.



While working on/with the exhaust, plastic and aluminum under panels and the RACP studs/bolts, as well as drilling for the extended bolts, you will want to lift the car at least about 40 centimeters off the floor. But before and after that, it's more convenient to have it closer to the floor.



Remove the rear wheels



I recommend removing the wheels right after they are in the air. That way you won't have to lift them off and down.



Lift the car and set it down on jack stands



Using my large floor jack I lift the car by the diff. And set the jack stands under the rear OE jack points. I leave the floor jack under the diff as it'll be needed when lowering the rear axle



Remove the exhaust and under panels/liners



I removed sections 1 (Euro cats) and 2 (from cats to rear muffler) while they were still attached to each other. I find that easier.

Perhaps you could get away with only removing section 2, I honestly don't know.



The rear muffler does, in any way, not need to be removed.



I also removed all the rear and mid plastic and aluminum panels/heat shields in order to provide easier access to the rear axle. Perhaps some would not need to be removed, I honestly can't say that for sure either.



Preparing the rear axle




In addition to loosening the parking brake cables you will also need to:

• Loosen the rear brake hoses from the brackets holding them to the rear axle.

• Remove the lower rear shock bolts (connecting the shock to the trailing arm)





PLEASE NOTE:

You will NOT need to remove the rear brake hoses or the calipers. The rear axle will come down enough after simply releasing the hoses from the brackets.





Perhaps you could release the brake hoses from the brackets and remove the lower rear shock bolts right after removing the rear wheels, while the car still close to the floor. The reason would be that it'd be easier to remove the lower shock bolts that way, as you need to unload the shock (from the force of the spring) in order to safely remove those bolts. But this may make it more difficult to remove the exhast.



As I was working out the procedure I had lifted my car high, removed the rear subframe bolts, the front subframe nuts as well as loosened the brake hoses to see if I could remove the front subframe studs without and further disassembling. As I then found that the lower shock bolts also needed to come off in order to tilt the rear axle forward, I needed to use a piece of wood as a spacer.



Releasing the brake hoses









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Removing the lower shock bolts











Lowering the rear axle



With the floor jack (or gear box jack if you have a lift) touching the front (for balance) of the diff, remove the rear subframe bolts and the nuts from the front subframe studs. Also remove the front cross member kind of addition to the subframe. There are four screws with 13mm heads pretty hidden inside it.



Also don't forget to unclip the wires from the rear leveling sensor if you have Xenons.



Now slowly lower the rear axle. We're doing this in order to remove the factory front studs.

















Tilt the front downwards



Support the hubs







Adjustable wrench 30mm hex















THE INSTALLATION



Lift axle and drill























Cutting the gusset holes























Vacuum and wipe clean











Stop drill any cracks that needs so



Grind down the weld beads







Flatten the "ridge" using a mandrel















Drill a diameter 12mm and 6-8mm deep clearence hole

Or even bette, run the supplied (starting June 2016) M12x1,5 tap through all receivers.



Test fit "pipe gussets". Using a small sledge hammer tap firmly to form the top plate against the floor.



Then clamp it down into place using a wheel bolt and a sturdy washer.

Once secured, trace it using a marker pen.







Drill 3,1mm holes then remove pipe gusset and remove paint, rough surface







If you would like to apply the epoxy in a number of batches you could go ahead and:

•degrease the bonding surfaces

•spray a light mist of the metal prep (the blue liquid) to the bonding surfaces.

•apply the epoxy and spread it out to an even coating using the stubby paint brushes. Avoid epoxy closest to the 12mm hole (as it could get in between the bolt and hole and make the bolt stick)

•place and torque down the pipe gussets using a wheel bolt

•insert and "pop" the short 3mm pop rivets



If you prefer to apply all the epoxy in one go, please proceed to the next step

------------------------------

Opening the trunk floor to fit the rear bar



Angle grinder with a thin disc and (the last bit against the chassis leg) a dremmel with cutting disc



















Cutting the sides up against the chassis leg (use a safer method than I did)















Ignore the pieces I left in the lower corners, that was an idea I later abandoned. Cut those away.







Flattening the "T"



Using the dremmel with a cutting disc cut a slit and then use a hammer to flatten once. Cut and hammer again











Grind down weld beads







Remove paint approximately 95x140 mm and also a small area on the vertical surface.







Drill a diameter 12mm and 6-8mm deep clearence hole.

In order to get it centered I first used a step drill with the 10mm step guiding the 12mm step. Then used a standard 12mm drill


Or eveven better, run the supplied (starting June 2016) M12x1,5 tap through the receivers









Test fit the bar and make cut outs for the new sections of the "lid"



Make sure you can slide in the bar at an angle such that the sheet metal strip at the mid/front of the bar slides in under the remaining lip of the "lid" as seen to the right in this picture







Please ignore the fact that the bar is unpainted in this picture



With the bar in place make markings where the sheet metal strip starts/ends. Then remove the bar and cut the underside of the the "lip" of the lid" to make room for the new pieces of the "lid" that will slide in under the current "lid" as shown here







Prepare the "lid"







































Trace bar end plates to remove paint











Grind off the paint such that a rough surface is achieved (for better bonding of the epoxy)







Apply the "T" cover plate

This "patch plate" serves to patch the top of the RACP in the T area



Drill rivet holes, 3,1mm







Apply epoxy and spread it out to an even coating with the stubby paint brush. Avoid getting epoxy too close to the 12mm hole as it will be pressed out and into the hole







Secure the plates using the short 3,0 rivets











Clean the 12mm hole from epoxy







Fit/adjust the bar making sure the end plates fit snugly against the chassis legs, AND the structural gussets (the angled piece of the end plates that extend under the bar) fit snuggly against the vertical surface of the RACP. Also strive to get the holes in the welded bar-cups to center the 12mm holes of the RACP. If needed, adjust the endplates in either direction by tapping them with a small sledgehammer (or heavy hammer).



Torque down the bar using wheel bolts and drill 4,8mm holes through the chassis legs.



You should notice there are two sheetmetal layers in the chassis legs. Drill through both layers, but to a maximum depth of about 11mm on the two front most holes on the right side. Use the supplied drill stop tube!



PLEASE NOTE:

The two layers can be distinctively felt on the left side (as there is a gap between them), while the two layers on the right side seem to be touching each other and are easily mistaken for just one layer. Resulting in an inadvertent puncture of the protective metal tube, and the gas tank venting hoses inside it. DO NOT DRILL the two front most holes on the right side DEEPER THAN APPROX 11mm








Also drill holes through the structural gussets of the endplates and the vertical surface of the RACP. Please ignore the fact the horizontal sheet metal strip is fitted in this pic., as you can see it's much better to fit that strip in a layer step. That way there is more room to drill and rivet the endplates.







Remove the bar and thoroughly remove any and all metal shavings etc using a vacuum cleaner.



Make sure that the paint is completely removed from all bonding surfaces, and that the bonding surfaces are degreased.



Then spray a light mist of the supplied POR metal prep (blue fluid) onto the bonding surfaces. Unless already epoxied, this also applies to the front "pipe gussets".



The metal prep should be given at least 20 minutes to "etch" the surfaces. Apply additional metal prep during the 20 minutes to avoid the fluid from drying.



Wipe the surfaces with a damp, lint free, cloth.



















Pipe gussets.

Apply the epoxy to the chassis side bonding surfaces and evenly spread it out with the stubby paint brush.



Avoid applying epoxy close to the 12mm hole







Place the "pipe gussets" in their respective positions and torque them down using wheel bolts.



Use the short 3,0mm pop rivets to secure the pipe "gussets"







The bar.



Before you apply epoxy to the bar you should apply the black seam sealer (provided in the kit) to the top surface of the RACP where the bar will be resting. Using the second stubby paint brush provide in the kit, spread out the seam sealer to a thick and even coating.

This is done to avoid any potential rattling noises.



Please ignore the fact that the sheet metal strip is assembled to the lower part of the remainings of the "lid". From experience I now know this sheet metal strip should be assembled in a later step.







For the same reason also apply the black seam sealer to the sheet metal strip on the top/middle section of the bar.







Once this is done go ahead and apply epoxy to the bars bonding surfaces.



Note.The bonding surfaces of the bar end plates AND the chassis legs should ideally both have a thin coating of epoxy.







And don't forget the small surfaces on the structural gussets







Now carefully, at an angle, slide the bar into it's position making sure not to scrape too much of the seam sealer, or any of the epoxy, off the bonding/mating surfaces.



Once again using the wheel bolts, torque down the bar into its final position.



Then install the first two 4,8mm rivets into the holes connecting the structural gussets of the end plates to the RACP.

(This picture clearly shows why you should install the sheet metal joint strip in in a later step to avoid having to bend it.)







Then 4,8mm pop rivets into the drilled holes.



And finally bend the thin sheet metal "flap" to form the new support for the "lid".

Once you are happy with its position, drill a 4,8 mm hole through the "flap", the end plate and the two layers of the chassis leg. Secure the "flap" with the last 4,8mm pop rivets.







Now install the sheet metal joint strip. Using clamps of your choice, position the joint strip and drill 3,1mm holes through the trunk floor (bottom of the remaining "lid" and the strip.







Then apply epoxy and secure using the short 3,0mm pop rivets







Here's a suggested spacing







Now make sure the remaining original piece of the "lid", AND the two new pieces you bent and formed fit to your liking. (If you have the patience, and appreciate a near factory look, some extra effort in this step can really pay off.











Once you are happy with the fitment, take the three "lid" pieces off and apply the seam sealer to the top of the bar, and epoxy to the joint strip.







Then secure the mid section with 3,0 rivets (drilling 3,1mm) wherever your bonding sheet metal to sheet metal, and use the longer 3,2mm rivets (drilling 3,25mm) wherever you are bonding sheet metal to the bar.







Then place the two new pieces in their respective placements, drill and rivet them.



Finally apply seam sealer to all the joints, spread it out using the stubby paint brush.







































Rust protection



















Installing the front bolts/studs



















Lifting the rear axle back up



Place the jack towards the front and use the rear bolts to lift the rear. Alternate lifting
















Last edited by VinceSE2; Fri, Jan-27-2017 at 10:56:11 PM.
Jump to top VinceSE2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Register now and remove these ads
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 09:33:54 PM   #2
VinceSE2
FKA VinceSE
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,116
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 VinceSE2 is on a distinguished road
Location: Åkarp

Sweden




Default Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

This is not really part of the kit. But as I was cleaning up in preparation for painting, I lifted the sound insulation from the floor under the seat bench, and found three popped spot welds on both sides. They where all rusty and where most certainly popped as a result of the previous RACP separation.

But, just as the broken weld at the topside of the front mounts, this damage was not noticed. Nor repaired and reinforced. Probably because the prior instructions really don't say much about why the RACP separates from the rest of the chassis.

Anyway, I chose to drill out the popped and/or damaged spot welds, and pull the panels back together and secure them with the 4,8mm pop rivets used in my kit.

I also got 1,2mm thick OD 20mm, ID 4,3mm washers and drilled out the ID to 4,8mm to give the rivets some steady support.

































Edit May 14 2016:

While checking the fuel leak/smell (more on that below) I noticed that this car also had a couple of more popped spot welds I hadn't seen before. These where the ones holding the the "cup" to which the RCAB bracket is bolted to. We cleaned it up, bare metalled and hammered back the gap as best we could before welding it. Sorry no "after pics"













Here are a few pics of how we fixes the punctured plastic gasoline venting tubes please see post #110 http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...p?p=1067412106 for more info).
We lowered the gas tank (removing all of the under panels as well as pulling out the p-brake cables) and pulled the hoses into the car via the inspection holes under the rear seat.





Then cut the hoses at the holes/damage. And then cut them again by the inspection hole, adding rubber hoses with the same length as the first pieces we had to cut off.







Heres the culprit holes (that should NOT be drilled deeper than 11mm)



And here's how we found the damage to the metal tube (due to me drilling the holes too deep)











Starting a few lists of options and buyers here.

Deposit is half the amount, final payment prior to shipment.

Complete kit - About $650 + shipping (about $110 for one kit and about $150 for two kits)
• Kubin B - Paid, thank you
• GrendelsbaneM3 - Deposit paid
• Flow & friend (2 pcs) - Paid, thank you!
• Nuclear Rabbit - Deposit paid
• nuc1 - Paid, thank you!

Front kit - $200 including drill guide rod and shipping
• TJ Elliot - Sent

Epoxy and applicator gun (price pending). I'll need about 5-10 orders
• Kubin B - Requested

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by VinceSE2; Sat, May-14-2016 at 01:29:14 PM.
Jump to top VinceSE2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 09:37:35 PM   #3
Tchleung
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,013
Reputation: 0 Tchleung is on a distinguished road

Canada




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

SUB'D
__________________
Follow me on Instagram @tommtomm84

03 Carbon Black X5 4.4 - Parts Hauler/Daily

02 Carbon Black M3 6MT - Fun Car
462whp/311wtq @ 9.5psi(SuperFlow)
4.10 / Headers / ESS VT2-550+

Jump to top Tchleung is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 10:09:04 PM   #4
TboneM3
YNWA
 
TboneM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,921
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 TboneM3 is on a distinguished road
Location: Socal

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Boss.
__________________
///2004 SilberGrau M3 · Coupe · 6MT · no sunroof/zero options_______________ JOURNAL

Evolve-R · eVenturi · Euro Headers|Sect 1 · OE CSL · OM Scorza · D/A pullies/fan delete · TMS camber/subf plates
RE · Besian · AKG · AutoSolutions 30% · TMS front sway · GroundControl(Koni/Eibach) · Sportline 8S 18" PSS 245/275
Pioneer DEH-80PRS · Eclipse PA5422 · CDT HD-6 + WS-100i · CDT EX-530

Beater: 1999 Civic LX - Kenwood x998 · Eclipse 32430 · CDT HD-6 + HD-100 · CDT EX-530 · Clarion 10"
Jump to top TboneM3 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 10:11:47 PM   #5
Data_Dump
DR 3VIL
 
Data_Dump's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 37
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 Data_Dump is on a distinguished road
Location: Suffolk, VA

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

This is very exciting! Looking forward to more info, thanks Vince!
__________________
My Journal '02 ///M3 Imola/Black 6MT
Previous: '07 335i, '04 STi, '03 EVO, '04 GTO, '05 S2000...

Jump to top Data_Dump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 10:20:27 PM   #6
warpig12354
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 579
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 warpig12354 is on a distinguished road
Location: Fayetteville

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

...
__________________
2003 M3 CB 6MT | Rogue Engineering | Michelin | Beisan | Dinan | AKG | TMS | BBS | Bilstein | BimmerWorld | GroundControl | PFC | CPI
Jump to top warpig12354 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mon, Mar-21-2016, 11:19:02 PM   #7
jdev
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 252
Reputation: 0 jdev is on a distinguished road

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Very nice Vince!
__________________
02 Silver/Red
Jump to top jdev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Mar-22-2016, 12:02:42 AM   #8
oldss72
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 104
Reputation: 0 oldss72 is on a distinguished road
Location: Buffalo

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Has anyone tried this on a vert yet?

Last edited by oldss72; Tue, Mar-22-2016 at 01:09:42 AM.
Jump to top oldss72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Mar-22-2016, 12:09:10 AM   #9
gus330vrum
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 38
Reputation: 0 gus330vrum is on a distinguished road

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Swwweeeeeeeet ��
Jump to top gus330vrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Tue, Mar-22-2016, 03:46:27 AM   #10
Raw///M
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 53
In the garage:
Reputation: 0 Raw///M is on a distinguished road

United States




Default Re: Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop...

Amazing work, i will be looking to get that front mount kit from you to pair it with my mason x brace.
Jump to top Raw///M is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 03:39:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
M3Forum.com and M3forum.net is in no way sponsored, endorsed or affiliated by or with BMW NA / BMW AG or any of it's subsidiaries or vendors.
BMW and M3 (E90 M3 | E92 M3 | E93 M3 | E46 M3 | E36 M3 | E30 M3) are registered trademarks of BMW AG.
M3Forum Terms of Service
Copyright ©1999-2014 M3Forum.com
Discussing Vince RACP reinforcement/load relief- Install w/o welding and completely drop... in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)