[_JohnnyD_]

It has 109k kms and was built 12/1993. It looks like the clutch fan was replaced. The hoses look new but the clumps look untouched. It's hard to tell if anything was done before.


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[frbz]

November, december 1993 was the range of the build dates for the 45 Canadian cars. My car was produced Jan 1994

[Nate047]

Awesome find!

[NolliM3]

Congrats on a nice find!

[_JohnnyD_]

So I have driven the car a few times and noticed that the coolant temp hits just under mid point on the gage very quickly. About 1 min of driving in my subdivision under 2500 rpm. The ambient temp has been between 70 F and 85 F. I've driven it hard and the temp is not changing. Everything looks like it works fine.
I'm going to do a mini coolant service. I'm thinking fluid, brass drain plug, thermostat, and overflow bottle for appearance. (Maybe I will add a temp sensor for good measure)
All you euro experts what am I missing?


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[ZiMMie]

gauge has a dead spot, and euro usually warm up faster

[M_Parallel]

The Euro M engine runs HOT.

No seriously. Whrn I just had my car and opened the hood after a drive, I was like,,I overheated it. Of course I didn't.

It's a high compression 'race'-ish motor. And these headers, will radiate lots of heat.

Hell, after a normal quasi-spirited drive, even the strutbrace is very hot. Don't worry about it. It's perfectly normal.

The Euro M gauge is less buffered. I coded the M buffer in my 328i. I did some tests a few years ago, to test how the needle works. With NCS you can code whatever temp you want to be the centre spot, and at what temp it comes out of it.

[Kirbius]

Originally Posted by _JohnnyD_

So I have driven the car a few times and noticed that the coolant temp hits just under mid point on the gage very quickly. About 1 min of driving in my subdivision under 2500 rpm. The ambient temp has been between 70 F and 85 F. I've driven it hard and the temp is not changing. Everything looks like it works fine.
I'm going to do a mini coolant service. I'm thinking fluid, brass drain plug, thermostat, and overflow bottle for appearance. (Maybe I will add a temp sensor for good measure)
All you euro experts what am I missing?


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Remember to get the two 38x2.5 orings (i think, double check that) for the thermostat housing to head input manifold (alum tube); the thermostat kit only comes with the bigger main oring

Be good to grab a 316i aux fan switch (80/88) instead of the normal one (90/98 iirc), just have to trim off a small internal tab with the dremel to fit.

Valves clearances, Beisen kit, vac hoses etc on the cards if the maint history is unknown

[M_Parallel]

Originally Posted by Kirbius

...Be good to grab a 316i aux fan switch (80/88) instead of the normal one (90/98 iirc), just have to trim off a small internal tab with the dremel to fit.

Interesting. Does make me wonder. You'd expect BMW to do so if it was better. But that is an assumption. Lets say the engine is designed to operate at 90, having the fan come on as early as 80 might keep it from getting to optimal operating temp.

[_JohnnyD_]

Originally Posted by M_Parallel

The Euro M gauge is less buffered. I coded the M buffer in my 328i. I did some tests a few years ago, to test how the needle works. With NCS you can code whatever temp you want to be the centre spot, and at what temp it comes out of it.

I Googled a few videos showing a temp gage with a bypassed buffer. Mine is definitely buffered because it shows a very consistent temp during the entire drive.


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