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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Jun-11-2019, 11:58:10 PM   #41
Good
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Where can we purchase the replacement seals that have yet to be linked?

So far I've purchased:

Burkhart Motor, Temp Sensor, Burkhart Fluid:
https://www.blunttech.com/shop/1362btkt

Accumulator:
21532229716

Pressure Sensor:
https://www.smgsociety.com/product/p...e46-m3-smg-ii/

Solenoid Valve Seal Set:
https://www.smgsociety.com/product/s...e46-m3-smg-ii/

Inner Pump Seal Set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183786061083

I can't find a outter smg replacement seal for the black housing.
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EXTERIORVÖRSTEINER CSL BUMPER | MILE END CSL 1X1 DIFFUSER & FLIPPERS
ENGINE ▌TUNED BY PAUL-CLAUDE | KARBONIUS CSL AIRBOX (ALPHA N), OE SNORKEL + CSL DUCTING | VANOS BEISAN LOCKDOWN
TRANSMISSION ▌SMG HCU RELOCATED & REBUILT W/ NEW SEALS, ACCUMULATOR & BURKHART KIT
SUSPENSIONTURNER MOTORSPORT 30MM FRONT SWAY BAR | KW V3 COILOVERS | ROGUE RSM | GROUNDCONTROL STREET CAMBER PLATES | SDW RTABS
EXHAUSTSUPERSPRINT EXHAUST ~ OVERSIZED STEPPED V1 HEADERS | RACE CATTED SEC 1 | STOCK2 | SPORT (GEN 2) SEC 3
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Last edited by Good; Wed, Jun-12-2019 at 12:01:23 AM.
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Old Wed, Jun-12-2019, 12:16:31 AM   #42
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Good View Post
Where can we purchase the replacement seals that have yet to be linked?

So far I've purchased:

Burkhart Motor, Temp Sensor, Burkhart Fluid:
https://www.blunttech.com/shop/1362btkt

Accumulator:
21532229716

Pressure Sensor:
https://www.smgsociety.com/product/p...e46-m3-smg-ii/

Solenoid Valve Seal Set:
https://www.smgsociety.com/product/s...e46-m3-smg-ii/

Inner Pump Seal Set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183786061083

I can't find a outter smg replacement seal for the black housing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2006-B...wAAOSwHuha8dvf



https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2006-B...gAAOSwFmxaYMai

If you are talking about the smg HCU reservoir seal that is located on the smg body. there is no seal for that. You can try to use universal gasket makers that comes in the tubes. They rarely ever go bad or leak from there.

Last edited by SMG cog light; Wed, Jun-12-2019 at 12:20:20 AM.
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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 04:25:00 PM   #43
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Great work SMG Cog Light.

My cog light has been appearing more frequently as time goes on and my symptoms seem to match the overheating issue. Used to be occasionally in summer, but now it pretty much any time I push the car a bit or even following a quick succession of gear changes in weather that's slightly warm (or warmer). Car is a 2004 and I'm at 151,000 kms (about 94k miles) now on the original pump/motor so it's getting old. Wouldn't be the least bit surprised if seals and motor are on their way out. I've got a Foxwell on the way to run some live testing and will report back with the results.

I also have the resistor mod (680 ohm) a while ago but now I'm wondering if that's possibly doing more harm to the motor than good? Then again, if it's on it's last legs anyway then it's already too late and I don't need to stress about it.
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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 04:59:10 PM   #44
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

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Originally Posted by Swirls View Post
Great work SMG Cog Light.



My cog light has been appearing more frequently as time goes on and my symptoms seem to match the overheating issue. Used to be occasionally in summer, but now it pretty much any time I push the car a bit or even following a quick succession of gear changes in weather that's slightly warm (or warmer). Car is a 2004 and I'm at 151,000 kms (about 94k miles) now on the original pump/motor so it's getting old. Wouldn't be the least bit surprised if seals and motor are on their way out. I've got a Foxwell on the way to run some live testing and will report back with the results.



I also have the resistor mod (680 ohm) a while ago but now I'm wondering if that's possibly doing more harm to the motor than good? Then again, if it's on it's last legs anyway then it's already too late and I don't need to stress about it.


I had cog light once since I purchased my M3 ,I read a lot on many forums and decided to do the 1K resistor mod two years ago I don’t see the cog light ever even on hot days 120F/49c




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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 04:59:58 PM   #45
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

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Originally Posted by ahmed_alghoul View Post
I had cog light once since I purchased my M3 ,I read a lot on many forums and decided to do the 1K resistor mod two years ago I don’t see the cog light ever even on hot days 120F/49c




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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 05:03:26 PM   #46
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmed_alghoul View Post
I had cog light once since I purchased my M3 ,I read a lot on many forums and decided to do the 1K resistor mod two years ago I don’t see the cog light ever even on hot days 120F/49c

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The resistor mod is just a band-aid, how many shifts can you get into the car before you hear the motor come on? As OP states, if you cannot get 5-6 shifts in the car before you hear the motor priming you probably have an internal leak your not aware of.


EDIT: If your driving in 49°C weather with 172K miles on the stock pump your bound to have an internal leak.
__________________


EXTERIORVÖRSTEINER CSL BUMPER | MILE END CSL 1X1 DIFFUSER & FLIPPERS
ENGINE ▌TUNED BY PAUL-CLAUDE | KARBONIUS CSL AIRBOX (ALPHA N), OE SNORKEL + CSL DUCTING | VANOS BEISAN LOCKDOWN
TRANSMISSION ▌SMG HCU RELOCATED & REBUILT W/ NEW SEALS, ACCUMULATOR & BURKHART KIT
SUSPENSIONTURNER MOTORSPORT 30MM FRONT SWAY BAR | KW V3 COILOVERS | ROGUE RSM | GROUNDCONTROL STREET CAMBER PLATES | SDW RTABS
EXHAUSTSUPERSPRINT EXHAUST ~ OVERSIZED STEPPED V1 HEADERS | RACE CATTED SEC 1 | STOCK2 | SPORT (GEN 2) SEC 3
BRAKES ▌CSL/ZCP ROTORS | PORSCHE 996 BREMBO CALIPERS | SS LINES
WHEELS ▌OEM CSL BBS 19" | 75MM ECS/TMS WHEEL STUDS


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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 05:42:11 PM   #47
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

If you guys understand how a SMG system properly works and operate you would see that a resistor mod will kill your motor faster resulting in you having to replace the motor sooner. The reason for this is because the motor "on-time" changes with hydraulic temperature. On a fluid that is less hot, The motor will prime to a lower max bar (60-65). The hotter the fluid, the higher the max bar (68 all the way up to 80 bars). The reason the system is designed to work with hydraulic fluid temperature is due to simple physics. Hotter fluid viscosity losses pressure faster because the fluid is thinner when it's hotter. Thicker fluid creates pressure faster and pressure decays slower. By "modding" the system with a resistor, you are basically tricking the readings of your temperature sensor to read a lower degrees than the actual fluid temperature. This creates 2 problems. Since the fluid is tricked and reads cooler than reality; the motor will prime to a lower max bar. HOWEVER, the fluid decay CANNOT be tricked. Because you can't defy the laws of physics. The fluid pressure will decay faster and more rapidly at hotter temperatures. And since you added a resistor, it will prime only to a max bar of 60-68 depending on size of resistor (the higher the resistor the lower the max bar) and since the system is designed to turn the motor on anywhere between 45-55 depending on fluid temperature, you are only receiving pressure held in the accumulator for 13-15 bars. That amount of backup pressure will decay in a minute or less, forcing your motor to kick back on again to creature pressure. This cycle continues over and over and over and the result will be a worn commutator to the point where the motor is now so weak that it can no longer keep up with the decaying pressure. The end result will be neutral gear drops and a premature dead motor. If you didn't do the resistor trick, then the temperature sensor will read the high temperature and will ALLOW the motor to reach a max bar of 70-80 (depending on how hot the fluid readings are). Here is where the difference is major. The motor will still come on at 45-50 bars, but the back up pressure in the accumulator is 25-35 bars. Pressure decaying from 60 bars to 45 bars and 80 bars to 45 bars is a difference of 2-4 minutes rather than 1 minute or less. This will result in the motor coming on less meaning you are extending the life of your motor literally by 2-3 times more than if you had a resistor mod.

I have worked on many cars that did the resistor mod. I have removed resistors from 680 ohms up to 3.3k ohms. All of those cars had the same thing in common. A premature dead motor. You will know that your motor is dead when the resistor mod still doesn't work and you still get a cog light. I have many many years collecting data and doing research on this smg cog light/neutral issue. I started the research and data collecting since 2007-2019. My findings is pretty much conclusive. I now help others with properly servicing their HCU. I recently repaired a total of 6 e46 m3's SMG. I didn't use a resistor on any of those 6 cars and their cars are running the way it should. 3 of the owners didn't do a relocation modd. I also have 3 owners contact me that did a relocation modd and still dropping the car into neutral. It does not matter if you replaced the motor or changed your fluid. Every HCU that was brought me me all had unique problems with their cars. Every HCU repaired or recondition was also unique. 1 person had a bad accumulator. One person had brand new motor but had bad internal seals. 1 person had brand new accumulator and new motor but his problem was pressure loss only at high fluid temps. Doing a resistor mod or just installing a new motor will only band-aid the problem and i guarantee that the problem will present itself once the motor prematurely dies again. The right way to do it is to read all of the codes, checking every single component in the HCU and then repairing or replacing those defective components. Right now people that think they fixed their problems are not even aware that their motor is priming every minute or every other minute. If you don't believe me then do the live test yourselves and you can see on live data. I highly am against the resistor mod.

Last edited by SMG cog light; Mon, Jun-17-2019 at 08:57:17 PM.
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Old Thu, Jun-13-2019, 06:58:49 PM   #48
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

SMG cog light, this looks like a textbook explanation of the SMG issues we experience. Thanks for the insight. For those of us who don't know how to do the "live test" that you advise, will you explain that for us?
Thanks, again.
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Old Fri, Jun-14-2019, 01:29:25 PM   #49
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Yep, the scanner is on the way and I'll run a live test as soon as I can. I'm curious to see how it goes but honestly, I'm expecting to see pressure dropping way faster than it should be.

I reckon the whole unit needs some TLC with new seals, new motor etc. How can you tell if a new accumulator is also needed? Only if you refresh all the other parts and still have pressure dropping too fast?
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Old Fri, Jun-14-2019, 03:35:44 PM   #50
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Default Re: SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaTree View Post
SMG cog light, this looks like a textbook explanation of the SMG issues we experience. Thanks for the insight. For those of us who don't know how to do the "live test" that you advise, will you explain that for us?
Thanks, again.
If you load the data screens in INPA, you can see the accumulator pressure level dropping while idling/driving, hit the low level point and the motor turns on (observed by seeing the pressure rise), and watch where it stops at the top end. Essentially, you can observe everything SMG cog light has said and validate it for yourself just watching those pressure levels while driving. You could even do it while idling, then go for a drive with A/C on/warm day, come back, and do it again. Just click back and forth between 1-2 while idling and you'll be able to bleed off pressure quickly and activate the pump.
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Discussing SMG Pump Maintenance/Troubleshooting: Complete Guide in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)