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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, May-26-2016, 03:05:15 PM   #1
Linnadawg
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Default Smg pump rebuild

I rebuilt my smg pump using eurton electric in Orange County for the motor and an eBay seller twinturbo30psi for all internal orings, seals and the sensors. The motor was $350 and the seals were a bit pricey at $300 but you can't get them anywhere else as far as I know.

To relieve pressure before you remove the accumulator you can remove the salmon relay and shift gears a few times or after the pump is out you can attach a spare hydraulic line running into a jar and then activate that solenoid with 12v from a battery. All of the fluid will spray out. If you try to slowly remove the accumulator fluid will spray out like all hell. Make sure you at least break the accumulator loose before you remove the pump from the car. It's a 17mm. It won't start spraying until after a full turn or two when the o ring un seats. If you don't you'll have to clamp the pump in a vise to break it loose. (When you break the hydraulic lines loose fluid will not spray out, unless you had a crazy situation with a stuck open solenoid and that whole line was pressurized)

After you have the pump on the bench turn it upside down and drain all of the fluid out through the opening in the reservoir. Everything is removed with various size torx bits. Once the reservoir is removed you will see a filter on top of the pump, pop it out gently with your fingers. It has an o ring I did not replace. The hydraulic pump is held down with 2 Allen and 2 torx bolts. Remove them and slowly disassemble the pump while noting the correct position of the brass plates and orientation of everything. There are 2 gaskets you replace internally. Side with ridge faces inside the groove for the gasket. There is a large and a small o ring on the bottom where the pump slides into the electric motor. Check the longer drive gear for wear, where it connects to the electric motor. It can become deformed on the edges. The eBay seller sells new ones along with the coupler to connect the motor to the gear. Make sure when reassembling you slide the center aluminum plate on FIRST and then drop in the lower brass plate, gears, upper brass plate. There is a smaller and larger groove on the brass plate so make sure you put them in correctly. If you don't you wont build enough pressure. LIGHTLY TORQUE THE PUMP back down. I used a bit driver and a 1/4" ratchet. If you over torque the hydraulic pump like I did, your gears will slightly bind, put more stress on the electric motor, and you will only build around 60 bar of pressure. Turn the pump by had with a pair of needle nose and you should feel a little resistance. If there's a ton of resistance you over torqued, or you didn't listen about the center plate and the gears are pinched. Replace filter in correct orientation.

You can remove the pressure relief valve which is a 17 mm right above the hydraulic pump to the left. Once it's out use a small screwdriver and pop out the center piston. Replace the oring and place the piston back in correctly. I just torqued it one hand tight with a medium size 3/8" ratchet.

Before you put the reservoir back on note there are 2 different solenoid tips. When you replace solenoids make sure they go back in the same orientation. I replaced my reservoir gasket and gave it a one hand tight with a 1/4" ratchet.

On the opposite side disconnect all of the wiring and remove it with the electric motor. My motor smelled slightly burnt and had 200k ohms of resistance. For the solenoids you slightly lift up on the tab and use a screwdriver with leverage to gently pop up the connectors. For the temp sensor just pop out the metal clip on both sides. Take a picture of the wiring before removal. After all of the screws are out rock the solenoids back and forth and try to get a tiny screwdriver underneath to get a little leverage. Make sure not to bend anything. Once they are out I checked all solenoids which had 3ohms each. I then applied 12 volts to each solenoid with jumpers and heard a solid click from each one. Replace all 4 orings for each solenoid noting 3 different sizes, I think. Make sure to replace solenoids in the correct orientation for the different tips. Not sure what would happen if you didn't. After your motor is rebuilt replace wiring. MAKE SURE YOU SNAP ALL SOLENOIDS CONNECTIONS DOWN AND HEAR A CLICK. I didn't fully seat 2 of them and when I tried to bleed the actuator it kept failing and telling me I had a burnt solenoid.

I didn't replace the o ring on the accumulator because mine still looked good and didn't want to wait for a replacement. Be careful using an impact to remove accumulator. I snapped the nut off an extra accumulator.

When I placed the smg pump in the car I used the smg hose attached to a funnel for the fluid while I tested and bled. It's a pain to keep removing the intake manifold if something is wrong. Also I had to cut my lines and replace them because I didn't want to use heat when I was rebuilding the pump.
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Old Thu, May-26-2016, 03:07:56 PM   #2
Linnadawg
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Pic of how the brass plates should be placed.
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Old Thu, Jun-02-2016, 03:23:39 PM   #3
nikica
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Did you get this back in your car? If so, how is it? Thanks!
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Old Thu, Jun-02-2016, 03:43:56 PM   #4
Linnadawg
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Yes I did. Already put 1000 miles on it and everything is great.
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Old Thu, Jun-02-2016, 09:27:17 PM   #5
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Well there you have it?

Lol, market that quickly before any other person done. You'll need a few things first...

1. Photos
2. Time frame (turn around)
3. Cost
4. Possible disclosure
5. Paperwork to make it legit.
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Old Sat, Dec-17-2016, 07:05:56 PM   #6
BMWAUDIO
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

My pump is leaking can you do this for me ?
i will pay you
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Old Fri, Mar-01-2019, 06:27:31 AM   #7
Mr ///M3
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

I just saw this on you tube for the E46 guys.
I wonder if the SMG I is similar.
Does anyone have any information on how to service the SMG I system ?

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Old Mon, Jun-10-2019, 11:04:59 AM   #8
Mel279
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Linnadawg View Post
I rebuilt my smg pump using eurton electric in Orange County for the motor and an eBay seller twinturbo30psi for all internal orings, seals and the sensors. The motor was $350 and the seals were a bit pricey at $300 but you can't get them anywhere else as far as I know.

To relieve pressure before you remove the accumulator you can remove the salmon relay and shift gears a few times or after the pump is out you can attach a spare hydraulic line running into a jar and then activate that solenoid with 12v from a battery. All of the fluid will spray out. If you try to slowly remove the accumulator fluid will spray out like all hell. Make sure you at least break the accumulator loose before you remove the pump from the car. It's a 17mm. It won't start spraying until after a full turn or two when the o ring un seats. If you don't you'll have to clamp the pump in a vise to break it loose. (When you break the hydraulic lines loose fluid will not spray out, unless you had a crazy situation with a stuck open solenoid and that whole line was pressurized)

After you have the pump on the bench turn it upside down and drain all of the fluid out through the opening in the reservoir. Everything is removed with various size torx bits. Once the reservoir is removed you will see a filter on top of the pump, pop it out gently with your fingers. It has an o ring I did not replace. The hydraulic pump is held down with 2 Allen and 2 torx bolts. Remove them and slowly disassemble the pump while noting the correct position of the brass plates and orientation of everything. There are 2 gaskets you replace internally. Side with ridge faces inside the groove for the gasket. There is a large and a small o ring on the bottom where the pump slides into the electric motor. Check the longer drive gear for wear, where it connects to the electric motor. It can become deformed on the edges. The eBay seller sells new ones along with the coupler to connect the motor to the gear. Make sure when reassembling you slide the center aluminum plate on FIRST and then drop in the lower brass plate, gears, upper brass plate. There is a smaller and larger groove on the brass plate so make sure you put them in correctly. If you don't you wont build enough pressure. LIGHTLY TORQUE THE PUMP back down. I used a bit driver and a 1/4" ratchet. If you over torque the hydraulic pump like I did, your gears will slightly bind, put more stress on the electric motor, and you will only build around 60 bar of pressure. Turn the pump by had with a pair of needle nose and you should feel a little resistance. If there's a ton of resistance you over torqued, or you didn't listen about the center plate and the gears are pinched. Replace filter in correct orientation.

You can remove the pressure relief valve which is a 17 mm right above the hydraulic pump to the left. Once it's out use a small screwdriver and pop out the center piston. Replace the oring and place the piston back in correctly. I just torqued it one hand tight with a medium size 3/8" ratchet.

Before you put the reservoir back on note there are 2 different solenoid tips. When you replace solenoids make sure they go back in the same orientation. I replaced my reservoir gasket and gave it a one hand tight with a 1/4" ratchet.

On the opposite side disconnect all of the wiring and remove it with the electric motor. My motor smelled slightly burnt and had 200k ohms of resistance. For the solenoids you slightly lift up on the tab and use a screwdriver with leverage to gently pop up the connectors. For the temp sensor just pop out the metal clip on both sides. Take a picture of the wiring before removal. After all of the screws are out rock the solenoids back and forth and try to get a tiny screwdriver underneath to get a little leverage. Make sure not to bend anything. Once they are out I checked all solenoids which had 3ohms each. I then applied 12 volts to each solenoid with jumpers and heard a solid click from each one. Replace all 4 orings for each solenoid noting 3 different sizes, I think. Make sure to replace solenoids in the correct orientation for the different tips. Not sure what would happen if you didn't. After your motor is rebuilt replace wiring. MAKE SURE YOU SNAP ALL SOLENOIDS CONNECTIONS DOWN AND HEAR A CLICK. I didn't fully seat 2 of them and when I tried to bleed the actuator it kept failing and telling me I had a burnt solenoid.

I didn't replace the o ring on the accumulator because mine still looked good and didn't want to wait for a replacement. Be careful using an impact to remove accumulator. I snapped the nut off an extra accumulator.

When I placed the smg pump in the car I used the smg hose attached to a funnel for the fluid while I tested and bled. It's a pain to keep removing the intake manifold if something is wrong. Also I had to cut my lines and replace them because I didn't want to use heat when I was rebuilding the pump.
I have dismantle my pump and just order those viton seals. Im just curious to where the other small o ring goes into? the other one I know its from the back of the pump next to the big o ring. Also, do you happen to know the torque spec for the part with gears in it & filter on top?
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Old Mon, Jun-10-2019, 03:11:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: Smg pump rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel279 View Post
I have dismantle my pump and just order those viton seals. Im just curious to where the other small o ring goes into? the other one I know its from the back of the pump next to the big o ring. Also, do you happen to know the torque spec for the part with gears in it & filter on top?
OP's Last Activity: Sat, Oct-01-2016 12:14:43 PM

You can get Viton SMG repair kits on eBa.

2000-2006 BMW E46 M3 SMGII Repair KIT- Viton Seals Hydraulic Pump-$80
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2006-B...I/323655639339

2000-2006 BMW E46 M3 SMGII Viton O-ring kit for Solenoids-$99
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18384252061...m=183842520619
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Discussing Smg pump rebuild in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)