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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 28
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![]() Location: Long Island
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This weekend I was running at Pocono Raceway and lost oil pressure. i saw the light in the back straight. I was at full throttle and about 6k RPM. Pulled off shut her down. Started it once to make sure it wasn't indication problem it was ticking so I shut it back down. Had to start it one more time to move it closer to the wall not for long though.
So before I get professional help on this whats my course of action, I'm assuming this may be an oil pump nut problem since I haven't welded or wired it yet. Im just worried about if i replace the pump and weld the nut and my motor is still toast from losing oil pressure around 6000 rpm. Am I looking into a rebuild here or just try to drop the pan and investigate and possibly replace the nut and pump if its broken?
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1997 Estorilblau E36 M3 TCKR DA Suspension - Turner Sways - Active Autowerke Intake/Exhaust - 17x9 ARC8 - Hankook RS4 245/40/17 Square - UUC EVO Short Shifter - Kirk Rollbar - Sparco Evo 2s - MOMO Monte Carlo Wheel - Motion Motorsport Underpanel |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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![]() Location: Vancouver
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Compression test is absolutely the first course of action. Check the results and go from there.
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![]() 98 m3, techno/anthrazit cloth, 103k and officially worthless. 2000 323i touring, silver/grey/sport pack, 170k and officially boring. Member journal. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=491859 |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Drain the oil and send a sample out to black stone for analysis. Pull the pan and see if you made metal. If all looks good I'd probably pull the oil pump and open it up to check for scoring. If that's good reassemble with welded or safety wired nut and count yourself lucky.
Most likely you're looking at trashed bearings in the bottom end and cam trays.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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Compression test is bleh.
Do a blackstone oil analysis, and see if you can get your hands on a compression leak down tester. Hopefully the bottom end bearings are OK and you can get away with just a rebuilt oil pump |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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When my oil pump nut went it was a similar scenario, light came on at high rpm and I had to drive it about 2mins to get off the freeway:/
I also sent a sample to Blackstone and pulled the pan but in my case just the nut backed off and nothing else was damaged. I still think I got lucky but thought I would share. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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It would not be too hard to replace the rod bearings while you have the pan off to check the oil pump. You could also pull the cams to see if they are ok. If rod bearings and cams are ok, I would think mains would be ok.
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#7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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In this situation the least amount of rotations you continue to put into the motor the better.
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#8 |
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This.
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#9 |
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Wow good point. Perhaps my suggestion isn't the right one.
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![]() 98 m3, techno/anthrazit cloth, 103k and officially worthless. 2000 323i touring, silver/grey/sport pack, 170k and officially boring. Member journal. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=491859 |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the responses guys!
So far what I've gathered gonna hold off on the compression test right now, gonna start pulling the sub frame tomorrow doesn't seem to be too bad of a job on these plus I just installed new control arms so the balljoints shouldn't be too hard to pull off. Also ordered up the blackstone kit. Other than that, keeping my fingers crossed here at the very least Ill pull the magnetic drain plug that should tell me something before I start taking the car apart.Ill keep the updates coming
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1997 Estorilblau E36 M3 TCKR DA Suspension - Turner Sways - Active Autowerke Intake/Exhaust - 17x9 ARC8 - Hankook RS4 245/40/17 Square - UUC EVO Short Shifter - Kirk Rollbar - Sparco Evo 2s - MOMO Monte Carlo Wheel - Motion Motorsport Underpanel |
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