[bigjae1976]

Depends. If your exhaust is rusted up, then it will be long and painful so do it at home. Or at least address that before going into the clutch job.

I would also make sure your fan comes off. Sometimes that nut can be a PIA. If you can tilt the engine, getting the bell housing bolts on the side out is MUCH, MUCH faster.

Study the DIY first. Its a pretty straightforward job.

Otherwise, just make sure you have extra bolts and stuff you'll have to either go to the dealer to get hardware or order online and wait.

If you can do it on the lift...use the lift. Its WAY easier. Having two people handle the transmission removal and install is MUCH faster and easier. I could do a clutch on a lift in 3-4 hours max. If all goes smooth...2-3 hours.

[Chris_M]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I could do a clutch on a lift in 3-4 hours max. If all goes smooth...2-3 hours.

I can do an old RWD truck clutch in 2-3hr. But that's a very optimistic time for one of these cars. There is a lot to remove and not a lot of space to do it.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Chris_M

I can do an old RWD truck clutch in 2-3hr. But that's a very optimistic time for one of these cars. There is a lot to remove and not a lot of space to do it.

Getting the transmission out and in is what takes me the longest. Takes me about an hour on my car to get to the point of removing the tranny. A small and high powered battery impact speeds things up.

When I've used a lift and a good tranny jack...turns an hour + into 10 min.


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[odejavue]

I think I need a new clutch too. Which clutch kit set did you went with, SACHS or LUK?

Thanks

[T3AMFiSh]

extentions... you will need LONG extentions for the top bolts on the bell housing

[///ALpineVert]

Originally Posted by odejavue

I think I need a new clutch too. Which clutch kit set did you went with, SACHS or LUK?

Thanks

Based on research, the LuK 03-54 kit on Amazon for ~$250 is the one to use. I have seen posts where Kaiv, a west coaster who installs a lot of clutches, has said that LuK is the OE brand.

[Obioban]

If you don't go BMW, make sure to buy an OE BMW throw out bearing and pilot bearing. The ones included with the LuK are crap.

[Jfbsaratoga]

The OEM pilot bearing is key...I spent more time than I wanted trying to push the trans on the last 1/4". Turns out the pilot was too small. Learn from my pain...go OEM.

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[Obioban]

The included Pilot and throw out bearings are just POSes, as well-- you'll be back in there in no time to replace it, if you use it.

Video I made; stock (left) vs included (right):

August 27, 2016 - YouTube

[e30will]

Since I went with a Luk clutch kit, I did as Obioban recommended and got a OE pilot bearing and throw-out bearing.

Thickness of bearing measured 9.95mm (with cheap micrometer) on the two OE pilot bearings (the original NTN supplied bearing from my 3/03 build date, and the KOYO one I got from dealer last year; both from Japan), but the one included with the Luk kit measured only 8.92mm (KBC, from Korea).

Will the 1mm difference be important? Who knows. I felt it was worth the marginal cost to go OE on those two pieces.