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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 04:42:25 PM   #11
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Thx Scott!
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 04:53:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Beowoulf View Post
Nicely done. I will move this thread to the DIY section in a while so it doesn't get lost.
Scott, you have been immortalized by having a DIY thread in the M3 Forum.

You have left now, a positive legacy mark in the M3 Forum for all to read and see.
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 05:16:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Baron View Post
Scott, you have been immortalized by having a DIY thread in the M3 Forum.

You have left now, a positive legacy mark in the M3 Forum for all to read and see.
Awesome.
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 05:49:08 PM   #14
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I'm gonna be going on the dyno and gonna get leakdown and compression tests done too on Tues. From searching HPF posts and what not I came to conclusion tha I should be around 145psi and thats what Mike had too so we will see.

Thanks for the DIY again.
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 06:05:19 PM   #15
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Well done - but two comments:

1. I don't understand the need to remove the cooling fan shroud. It isn't in the way for removing the plastic decorative valve cover. Seems an unneeded step.

2. I see nothing about locking the throttle bodies open. This is IMPORTANT to do. If you don't, you're pulling a vacuum on the TB's and the compression readings won't be accurate. Bentley makes a point of it "press accelerator to the floor". Dunno if this will work with the electronic throttle control. You might be better manually opening the throttles using the linkage between them, and wedging/clamping something on to keep it open. Be interested in hearing if holding the E-throttle to the floor will open the TB's fully..

As a FWIW - if I was doing it - I don't think I'd bother disconnecting the connectors in the E-box. I would disconnect all the coils, and disconnect the injectors at the injectors.

For the people asking about numbers - absolute numbers aren't terribly important.. anything within the normal range given in the Bentley manual is fine (160-174PSI.) What's more critical to good running is the difference between cylinders. Typically +/- 5PSI is considered acceptable - Bentley is quoting 7PSI range - so +/- 3.5 PSI.

The closer the numbers the smoother the engine runs.
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 10:04:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
Well done - but two comments:

1. I don't understand the need to remove the cooling fan shroud. It isn't in the way for removing the plastic decorative valve cover. Seems an unneeded step.

2. I see nothing about locking the throttle bodies open. This is IMPORTANT to do. If you don't, you're pulling a vacuum on the TB's and the compression readings won't be accurate. Bentley makes a point of it "press accelerator to the floor". Dunno if this will work with the electronic throttle control. You might be better manually opening the throttles using the linkage between them, and wedging/clamping something on to keep it open. Be interested in hearing if holding the E-throttle to the floor will open the TB's fully..

As a FWIW - if I was doing it - I don't think I'd bother disconnecting the connectors in the E-box. I would disconnect all the coils, and disconnect the injectors at the injectors.

For the people asking about numbers - absolute numbers aren't terribly important.. anything within the normal range given in the Bentley manual is fine (160-174PSI.) What's more critical to good running is the difference between cylinders. Typically +/- 5PSI is considered acceptable - Bentley is quoting 7PSI range - so +/- 3.5 PSI.

The closer the numbers the smoother the engine runs.
Thanks for the the comments. The fan shroud actually does block access to one of the 10mm bolts and unfortunately has to come off



Depressing the electronic throttle will not open the throttle bodies. You can do the compression test with the TB's closed but may require a couple of extra cranks to get to max psi. Propping the throttle open as you suggested seems to be the best option - I will edit my OP to include that step.

The Bentley manual only recommends pulling the relay to disable the ignition system, whether this relay also shuts off the injectors is not clear but would be good to know. I don't recommend disconnecting the plugs from the injectors themselves. Each of the plugs is secured with a small metal clip that will have to be removed/replaced. I've had to do it a few times and it is a huge PITA.

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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 10:40:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Baron View Post
I would suggest taking everything off first, so as to work on a cold engine.
And then, when you are ready to perform the test, bring the engine up to normal operating temps, do the ECU connectors and perform the test.

If I missed the reason for working around a hot engine, then disregard my post.
OP amended so Robert does not have to break a sweat while he works on his car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post

2. I see nothing about locking the throttle bodies open. This is IMPORTANT to do. If you don't, you're pulling a vacuum on the TB's and the compression readings won't be accurate. Bentley makes a point of it "press accelerator to the floor". Dunno if this will work with the electronic throttle control. You might be better manually opening the throttles using the linkage between them, and wedging/clamping something on to keep it open. Be interested in hearing if holding the E-throttle to the floor will open the TB's fully..
Fixed, thx.
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Old Thu, Dec-31-2009, 10:57:21 PM   #18
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The shroud doesn't have to come off on most cars. It looks like yours is pushed closer to the bolt and cant be moved out of the way due to the HPF piece you have right there.
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Old Sat, Jan-09-2010, 08:04:00 PM   #19
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Hello doots.

First off I'd like to say props to the OP for posting up those pages of the Bentley Manual. Very helpful.

I've been doing quite a bit of research on how to run a compression test lately and came across this thread, and so far it's the most comprehensive.

I have two questions, hopefully someone can shed some light.

1) I drive a 2003 ZHP, and I'm wondering why is it that in my control unit box, there is a different number of relays than the BM pic?

Pretty sure I'm missing this one here:



Also, would anyone happen to know where I can find a diagram of exactly which relay is what? I plan on pulling the DME Main Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay to perform this test.

2) Has anyone figured out whether or not pushing down on the e-throttle will open the throttle body if the engine is NOT fully operational, and just being cranked? I've been trying to find this out for a week and have come to no conclusion. In the end I think I might just take off the intake boot, put the car on contact, lay a brick on the throttle and go take a look if it's opening. Putting the car on contact should make all electronics fully operational, but I don't know whether or not this'll affect the throttle plate.
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Old Sat, Jan-09-2010, 09:34:23 PM   #20
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Cool

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The photos on the BM are not necessary accurate for your model.
It might be another model, since they usually are a good guide, but not exactly.
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Discussing DIY: S54 Cylinder Compression Test in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)