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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Feb-23-2010, 04:27:10 AM   #21
jtt777
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is this really the right place to detension from? i though you detension from the center of the pulley based on other information that i've read

can someone please clarify?

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Originally Posted by NikolaiD View Post
Here are some pics of when I did it.
First to come off is the AC belt.
Put a socket on the tensioner pulley, spin it and slide a nail/drill bit/screw driver etc in the little hole to hold it loose. You don't need to release it until both belts are back on.

Then do the same thing to the accessory belt tensioner pulley:

(You do not need to take the pulley cover off, I was just curious...)
Switch the belts for new ones and release the pulleys one by one by pulling out whatever you used to hold them in the loose position.
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Old Tue, Feb-23-2010, 03:45:13 PM   #22
tony(topaz,SMG)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtt777 View Post
is this really the right place to detension from? i though you detension from the center of the pulley based on other information that i've read

can someone please clarify?
I believe there are two different versions. I know that on my 11/01 build, the tensioner is loosened under a cap in the center of the pulley.
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Old Tue, Feb-23-2010, 03:59:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony(topaz,SMG) View Post
I believe there are two different versions. I know that on my 11/01 build, the tensioner is loosened under a cap in the center of the pulley.
The older ones like my 11/01 build get loosened with a socket by the indentation I posted up in the pictures. tony, if you don't have that then your tensioner has been swapped.
The newer ones with the hydraulic tensioner don't have that, so you don't have a choice but to use the pulley bolt.
In other words, if you have it - use it.
But it makes no difference what you use. You can even reach in with your fingers and grab the pulley and move it...
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Old Wed, Feb-24-2010, 02:16:23 AM   #24
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thanks! i think i've got hydraulic tensioners on it so i need to pop the cover.

in terms of tightness of the belts, it looks like the tensioner is either engaged on not engaged and you don't need to worry a crazy amount about torque here, is that correct?

i assume if you remove the fan this is much easier. i was thinking of getting this because of the money i am saving doing it myself, i could also use it in the future

http://www.bimmertools.com/Fan-Clutc...00-sl62100.htm

has anyone gotten then, simple to use?
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Old Wed, Feb-24-2010, 04:15:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtt777 View Post
thanks! i think i've got hydraulic tensioners on it so i need to pop the cover.

in terms of tightness of the belts, it looks like the tensioner is either engaged on not engaged and you don't need to worry a crazy amount about torque here, is that correct?

i assume if you remove the fan this is much easier. i was thinking of getting this because of the money i am saving doing it myself, i could also use it in the future

http://www.bimmertools.com/Fan-Clutc...00-sl62100.htm

has anyone gotten then, simple to use?
I got a similar set from Bav Auto. They are very simple to use and make removing the fan a non-issue. And you'll need them again at some point (probably more than once).
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Old Wed, Feb-24-2010, 01:31:19 PM   #26
tony(topaz,SMG)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikolaiD View Post
The older ones like my 11/01 build get loosened with a socket by the indentation I posted up in the pictures. tony, if you don't have that then your tensioner has been swapped.
The newer ones with the hydraulic tensioner don't have that, so you don't have a choice but to use the pulley bolt.
In other words, if you have it - use it.
But it makes no difference what you use. You can even reach in with your fingers and grab the pulley and move it...
Actually, my tensioner was always of the type where you pop off the center caps and turn the tensioners clockwise to remove tension from the belts. Interstingly enough, one tensioner uses a torx socket and the other uses a hex socket.
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Old Thu, Apr-22-2010, 03:11:45 AM   #27
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so i did this earlier today from the bottom
very straightforward
got confused with the orientation of the belts
but managed to figure it out
thanks for the info guys
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Old Mon, Aug-23-2010, 02:35:17 AM   #28
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Default Belts DIY

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Old Tue, Dec-14-2010, 11:30:16 PM   #29
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Awesome, thanks for the info and the pictures i am about to try this as soon as i buy the belt, my snapped today and in process busted my coolant hose :-(. Speaking of belts, does it matter what kind do i get? I am a bit confused between alternator belt and SERPENTINE BELT i am assuming they are the same are they? Sorry for the noob question! One more thing, should i also replace A/C belt while i am changing the other one?
Thanks guys!
PS: It seems like i only come to this forum when i am in trouble or in need of something but you guys always come through :-)
THANKS!!!!!!
Happy holidays!!!
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Old Wed, Dec-15-2010, 12:07:49 AM   #30
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go ahead and replace both belts.
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Discussing DIY drive and AC belts in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)