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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, Nov-12-2009, 02:57:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VADER332 View Post
Thats all I need is a quick lift for one wheel at a time. Does anyone have any photos of the jack stand points?
2003 M3
There is one on each corner of the car. Rubber lift pads behind the fornt wheels and infront of the rear wheels. If you cant find them, they have fallin off, pretty common on the E46 I have made up some out of wood. Put the small wood piece on the jack and jack away.
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 05:13:18 PM   #12
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How do you remove the OEM jack pads? When installed the center pins sit flush with the rest of the surface.
Is there a way to get to them and push them out?
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 05:25:22 PM   #13
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the rear is the simplest.

from the yellow photo, slide your jack underneath the car and start lifting from the jack point near the diff. when high enough, place jack stands not on factory jack points but on just behind it where it is circled in green. thats how i raise the rear of my car.

for the front i'm still iffy on a good way to do it but its similar to the rear on how the picture shows. also, i've actually had one of my front jack pads pop out while i was lifting the car from it. i will not use them again. no major damage was done as car was barely off the ground and clips holding the side skirt in popped out only. i got lucky cause it could of been worse.

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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 06:15:39 PM   #14
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OK, here's my jacking procedure. I can get the whole car up on 4 jackstands in 10 minutes like this.

First, you NEED a low-profile jack which can easily reach both center jacking points. There are only two that I know of. The AC Hydraulics one that you can't get, and the Omega / Blackhawk 29023. This is what I have. (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9613_200329613) Even on my lowered car with 13.5" front height, 13" rear height all of this works with room to spare or go lower. I also put a hockey puck on the jack pad for extra padding to avoid bending anything. Hockey pucks have just the right amount of strength to hold up a car, while giving a little of the rubber to do so gently. They are perfect for this application.

Put it under the car from the front bumper, dead center. Raise the front to full extension and put jack stands under front jack pads.

Once I have done this, the rear of my car is so low that even this low jack cannot get under the differential to access the rear jack point. So, I move the jack to the side of the car, just in front of the rear wheels, and stick it in sideways. It can reach the rear center jack point from the side, and with room to clear, even with a hockey puck on the saddle. Raise the rear of the car, keeping the jack right next to the tire as you do so. I keep it very close to the rear tire so I have no problems sliding in a jack stand to support the rear right afterward. I used Craftsman 4 Ton jack stands, which are huge, so if this works for me it will likely work for your jack stands.

Ensure all 4 jack stands are seated correctly and evenly. Remove jack. Re-jack front or rear and adjust the jack stands if necessary (if anything shifts while lowering the car on to them, basically). By following this procedure, with this jack, you can have 18" of room in the rear and 20" of room in the front under the car, more than enough to do any job I've come up with yet.
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 08:16:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reach View Post
OK, here's my jacking procedure. I can get the whole car up on 4 jackstands in 10 minutes like this.

First, you NEED a low-profile jack which can easily reach both center jacking points. There are only two that I know of. The AC Hydraulics one that you can't get, and the Omega / Blackhawk 29023. This is what I have. (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9613_200329613) Even on my lowered car with 13.5" front height, 13" rear height all of this works with room to spare or go lower. I also put a hockey puck on the jack pad for extra padding to avoid bending anything. Hockey pucks have just the right amount of strength to hold up a car, while giving a little of the rubber to do so gently. They are perfect for this application.

Put it under the car from the front bumper, dead center. Raise the front to full extension and put jack stands under front jack pads.

Once I have done this, the rear of my car is so low that even this low jack cannot get under the differential to access the rear jack point. So, I move the jack to the side of the car, just in front of the rear wheels, and stick it in sideways. It can reach the rear center jack point from the side, and with room to clear, even with a hockey puck on the saddle. Raise the rear of the car, keeping the jack right next to the tire as you do so. I keep it very close to the rear tire so I have no problems sliding in a jack stand to support the rear right afterward. I used Craftsman 4 Ton jack stands, which are huge, so if this works for me it will likely work for your jack stands.

Ensure all 4 jack stands are seated correctly and evenly. Remove jack. Re-jack front or rear and adjust the jack stands if necessary (if anything shifts while lowering the car on to them, basically). By following this procedure, with this jack, you can have 18" of room in the rear and 20" of room in the front under the car, more than enough to do any job I've come up with yet.
Since I posted this thread, I found a similar solution that I like. My car is the stock ZCP height (I think that's the same as non-ZCP).

Anyway, since my car is the stock height, the Arcan Quick Lift Service Jack works really well for me (3-1/4in min height) - also from Northern Tool but half the price. I use the same Craftsman 4-Ton Jack Stands as you mentioned, but I start with the back first. It doesnt seem like it before I start, but I can jack up the back to that 18-20" height without scraping/touching the front bumper. Then I move on to the front. The hockey puck is an awesome idea, and I plan to get one soon. Without one it kind of scratches that back jack point. To me it just seems easier to be able to get to the correct jack spot in the back by lifting it from the center. And the front is easier to get to from the side.... but that's just for me.

I am still uneasy about resting the Jack Stands on the rear bolts, but the normal jack points were already bent in the back when I got the car. So I really have no choice. I use the normal jack points for the front, and so far it was fine. I bought a set of ramps as well (~30 bucks at Autozone) that I put under the wheels when I go under the car as extra life insurance. Maybe I am a wuss but having backup if somethign goes wrong makes me feel much better. I usually just put them under the front tires if I am chaging oil or belts.

Another thing I found out the hard way is that it doesnt hurt to have a set of safety glasses on when working under the car. A lot of dust and crap falls on your head especially if you accidently let the belt pulley tensioner fly back into place when you remove the belt.

Last edited by keca10; Mon, Mar-22-2010 at 08:21:34 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 10:28:55 PM   #16
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The best solution is to just collapse the rear jack points as quickly as possible.
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 10:35:56 PM   #17
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I have the Arcon AL low profile jack bought from Costco.

Bought these adapters from ECS. Works pretty well with it.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...rior/ES251251/
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 10:36:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reach View Post
OK, here's my jacking procedure. I can get the whole car up on 4 jackstands in 10 minutes like this.

First, you NEED a low-profile jack which can easily reach both center jacking points. There are only two that I know of. The AC Hydraulics one that you can't get, and the Omega / Blackhawk 29023. This is what I have. (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9613_200329613) Even on my lowered car with 13.5" front height, 13" rear height all of this works with room to spare or go lower. I also put a hockey puck on the jack pad for extra padding to avoid bending anything. Hockey pucks have just the right amount of strength to hold up a car, while giving a little of the rubber to do so gently. They are perfect for this application.

Put it under the car from the front bumper, dead center. Raise the front to full extension and put jack stands under front jack pads.

Once I have done this, the rear of my car is so low that even this low jack cannot get under the differential to access the rear jack point. So, I move the jack to the side of the car, just in front of the rear wheels, and stick it in sideways. It can reach the rear center jack point from the side, and with room to clear, even with a hockey puck on the saddle. Raise the rear of the car, keeping the jack right next to the tire as you do so. I keep it very close to the rear tire so I have no problems sliding in a jack stand to support the rear right afterward. I used Craftsman 4 Ton jack stands, which are huge, so if this works for me it will likely work for your jack stands.

Ensure all 4 jack stands are seated correctly and evenly. Remove jack. Re-jack front or rear and adjust the jack stands if necessary (if anything shifts while lowering the car on to them, basically). By following this procedure, with this jack, you can have 18" of room in the rear and 20" of room in the front under the car, more than enough to do any job I've come up with yet.
same exact procedure. just note there is another option for a low profile jack that can do the jobs as well. The Advanced Tool Design ATD-7325 2 Ton, which I have...
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Old Mon, Mar-22-2010, 10:59:23 PM   #19
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I always use the factory points and never noticed them bending I don't know what the fuss is about.
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Old Tue, Mar-23-2010, 12:27:54 AM   #20
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Just because you haven't had it happen, doesn't mean that it won't happen. The E46 is pretty notorious for the jack pads breaking or bending the metal around them.

That's what the fuss is about.
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Discussing Jack/lifting thread to end all jack threads.... in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)