[Performance Eurowerks]

As always, such a great thread and awesome contribution to the BMW community.
We have been doing A LOT of bearings recently and it still amazes me on what condition some of these low mileage cars are.

We absolutely love the BE Bearings and BE/ARP bolts. We try to encourage all of our clients to go this route. Can't wait to start doing their S54 bearings as well.

If I may add a quick note. If you want to the front subframe to lower a bit more without being bound up by the suspension arms, I recommend loosing the inner 18mm bolts for the front thrust arms. Tension will be released from those bushings, so the front subframe can swing down lower for more working room. When torquing them down during reassembly, just assure to torque them to spec with the suspension loaded to normal position.

Awesome work! Keep up the great service to the community.

[SYT_Shadow]

Thanks for the advice, that is a good pointer!

[Performance Eurowerks]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Thanks for the advice, that is a good pointer!

No problem!

We'll try to put together a couple threads for the forum showing the condition of the few that we've done in the last month.

One was 30,000mi with some ugly bearings.
The other was around 45,000mi with even uglier bearings.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Performance Eurowerks

No problem!

We'll try to put together a couple threads for the forum showing the condition of the few that we've done in the last month.

One was 30,000mi with some ugly bearings.
The other was around 45,000mi with even uglier bearings.

Definitely post the pics! I consider it a must have in the E9X generation, but to be honest only a small percentage of cars has failed

[Performance Eurowerks]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Definitely post the pics! I consider it a must have in the E9X generation, but to be honest only a small percentage of cars has failed

It boggles my mind with the E9X.
My E90 M3, which I've owned since brand new has 105,000mi. About to do the bearings once the shop has more free time. Oil analysis has been perfect every 5000mi. Might not truly indicate the real condition, but at least, nothing too frightening.

But then, a client with 16,000mi, never tracked, cruising down the highway, his motor fails due to spun bearing. Dealer replaced it under warranty.

[ty20404]

Solid DIY. I tackled this today with this thread as a guide.

I did not remove the fan and was able to access everything. Getting the belt off is very tight but it is doable. I noticed you had mentioned that you removed 6 bolts on the subframe... it could be different for the coupes but my sedan had 8 bolts holding the subframe on. Also it was fairly necessary to use a transmission jack to support the subframe when removing the bolts as I had about another 4 inches to go once the bolts were at the end of their threads. I also removed the 10mm nut on the drivers side of the steering rack that hold the power steering line as it was a bit tight with the subframe lowered.

I've gotten as far as installing the new bearings and no reassembly in about 5.5 hours. Will finish up tomorrow and post up if I have any more insights.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by ty20404

Solid DIY. I tackled this today with this thread as a guide.

I did not remove the fan and was able to access everything. Getting the belt off is very tight but it is doable. I noticed you had mentioned that you removed 6 bolts on the subframe... it could be different for the coupes but my sedan had 8 bolts holding the subframe on. Also it was fairly necessary to use a transmission jack to support the subframe when removing the bolts as I had about another 4 inches to go once the bolts were at the end of their threads. I also removed the 10mm nut on the drivers side of the steering rack that hold the power steering line as it was a bit tight with the subframe lowered.

I've gotten as far as installing the new bearings and no reassembly in about 5.5 hours. Will finish up tomorrow and post up if I have any more insights.

Yes, it can be done without removing the fan and in fact that's a better way to do it. The second car I did was like that based on admranger's recommendation.

When I do my second M3 I'll take pics and change the DIY

You're right on the 8 bolts instead of 6.

You do need to fully release the subframe bolts so the subframe hangs.

Good luck finishing up tomorrow!

[0-60Motorsports]

Excellent DIY. Thanks for posting this.

[ty20404]

Got it back together and after an oil-overfill escapade she's running great!

Some more lessons learned:

1. Wait to relieve tension in the belt and remove the tensioner bracket and bracket on the drivers front side of the engine until after you've dropped the subframe down completely. Way more room to work.



2. The Torx bolt on he passenger side of the transmission going into the oil pan is a bit restricted by the transmission oil cooler lines. If you remove the 10mm bolt holding the lines in place you can wiggle them just enough to break it loose with the E-torx socket and wrench. After that, a 10mm 12pt wrench should have enough bit to back it out all the way.





Some more pictures. 94k miles. Never tracked and daily driven. 2008 Sedan, 6MT.

[SYT_Shadow]

HA those rod bearings do not look happy! Glad you took care of this and potentially saved your car!