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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, Mar-10-2017, 03:24:01 PM   #11
BlackHawkRacing
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

Someone can correct me but I believe you need a tool to cycle the ABS.

One of the other ways to do it is to drive on the street and get into the abs several times, go back bleed the lines. I've never done it this way because it seems like a giant waist vs dropping the car off to have the ABS properly cycled but it's what I saw on BF.

EDIT - Found this as well https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...w-to-Cycle-ABS
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Old Fri, Mar-10-2017, 04:31:39 PM   #12
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

Is the normal e36 master cylinder the same as the M master cylinder? If they are different, maybe you had a bad master cylinder and it got replaced with one that has a smaller piston. That would cause you to have decent brakes that engage lower than they should but still stop well.

I know how you feel with the bad engagement point. I am bleeding mine this weekend, because it is a pain to heel-toe when the brake pedal is below the gas at full braking. I prefer the foot roll technique to actual heel and toe.
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Old Sun, Mar-12-2017, 07:04:09 AM   #13
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

So, I just got done bleeding the system and cycling the ABS. Pedal is still low.

That other thread claims the issue is not MC/ABS/Booster but bad caliper design.
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Old Mon, Mar-13-2017, 04:38:44 PM   #14
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

So last night I had a couple friends over and we worked as a team using the pump method to bleed the brakes (vs my Motive bleeder) in conjunction with jumping the ABS relay to actuate the pump.

Thanks to BlackHawkRacing for sharing that ABS trick with me.



My friend adding fluid and jumping the relay says he saw some bubbles work up from the ABS or Master Cylinder more than once. The pedal now feels better and engages higher.

I'm curious if the ABS and Master Cylinder design in these cars allows for air to be trapped in the system normally (with the end of the MC higher than the reservoir) which might account for this issue being so common.

The threads I've read swear up and down that the issue is due to pad taper. My issue with this is the fact that my pads are brand new and have zero taper. Someone else mentioned not suffering from this problem until they rebuilt their calipers, which could mean air was introduced.

I have a suspicion that I added air into my system when attempting to reverse bleed the clutch, since you're basically forcing fluid up and through the slave cylinder (which lends itself to easily getting air into the system).

Going to keep an eye on it and see how it does.
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Old Mon, Mar-13-2017, 05:24:53 PM   #15
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

Hmm. Posting so I can follow this later. When I tracked my E36 M3 I felt the brake pedal was biting a bit low as well. I was on PFC Z Rated pads.. I had my friend with a 997.2 GT3RS drive my car for a bit and he said as long as I'm able to stop and engage ABS don't worry about it lol... But in my E46 (totally different car) I can barley hit the brakes and it feels like my face wants to come off.

Sounds like I need to cycle my ABS and bleed the fluid again..
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Old Tue, Mar-14-2017, 02:15:12 AM   #16
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes View Post
So, I just got done bleeding the system and cycling the ABS. Pedal is still low.

That other thread claims the issue is not MC/ABS/Booster but bad caliper design.
Which would explain why a lot of guys have seen the issue disappear post BBK

Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes View Post
So last night I had a couple friends over and we worked as a team using the pump method to bleed the brakes (vs my Motive bleeder) in conjunction with jumping the ABS relay to actuate the pump.

Thanks to BlackHawkRacing for sharing that ABS trick with me.



My friend adding fluid and jumping the relay says he saw some bubbles work up from the ABS or Master Cylinder more than once. The pedal now feels better and engages higher.

I'm curious if the ABS and Master Cylinder design in these cars allows for air to be trapped in the system normally (with the end of the MC higher than the reservoir) which might account for this issue being so common.

The threads I've read swear up and down that the issue is due to pad taper. My issue with this is the fact that my pads are brand new and have zero taper. Someone else mentioned not suffering from this problem until they rebuilt their calipers, which could mean air was introduced.

I have a suspicion that I added air into my system when attempting to reverse bleed the clutch, since you're basically forcing fluid up and through the slave cylinder (which lends itself to easily getting air into the system).

Going to keep an eye on it and see how it does.
NP man, glad it helped a bit. Jealous TBH, I've been chasing for quite some time and am pretty much saving for a BBK at this point. Keep us posted if it comes back.
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Old Tue, Mar-14-2017, 05:47:05 PM   #17
nholmes
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Default Re: OEM Brake Engagement Point

For sure. I'll update the thread if the issue persists.

I have a feeling it might though, since most of the people in the thread you posted already tried bleeding over and over without success.

I think getting a few bubbles out helps, but doesn't fix the overall design issues.
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Discussing OEM Brake Engagement Point in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)