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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Oct-15-2019, 07:52:33 AM   #11
Nfaj
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by sapote View Post
I think the old TB started to seize up at high rpm and not the shift fork pivot pin which should not be any difference at high or low rpm.

Btw, if the fork touched the bellhousing there should be no noise because the bellhousing doesn't rotate. It must had touch the pressure plate.
i was thinking just that. I dont know why it would sieze at high rpm?
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Old Tue, Oct-15-2019, 07:14:18 PM   #12
sapote
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

Old dried bearing might act up at high speed. It is natural cause and effect.
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Old Tue, Oct-15-2019, 07:16:22 PM   #13
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

When remove tranny and look at the pressure plate fingers where the TB rides on, if the fingers worn with a circular groove then it proves a seized TB.
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Old Tue, Oct-15-2019, 08:12:50 PM   #14
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by sapote View Post
When remove tranny and look at the pressure plate fingers where the TB rides on, if the fingers worn with a circular groove then it proves a seized TB.
Will I have to replace the pressure plate then?
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Old Tue, Oct-15-2019, 08:39:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Will I have to replace the pressure plate then?
depending on how deep the grooved fingers are. If half thickness then toss out, but if 1/4 then maybe ok to reuse.
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Old Wed, Oct-16-2019, 01:14:46 AM   #16
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by iam_tylerbrown View Post
The brass pivot pin in my ladies m3 became flat, causing the clutch release fork to hit the bell housing when the clutch was fully pressed to the floor. It made a loud grinding sound. I experienced it more often on an uphill slant/slope. I could shift the car just fine without making it grind by not pressing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I’m not “for” or “against” the brass pivot pin. I replaced the brass one for an OE pivot pin. Both are fine in my opinion.

While our situations differ, it may be the same issue.

Attachment 217568


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Did you install that pivot pin. Cause here’s the thing.

The brass ones don’t just slide right in. They are slightly bigger than the hole they’re made to go in. So we have three methods of...entry (that’s what she said) but only one will leave it looking intact. I bought two of these when I did my clutch job. Those doing one make sure you read this.

You can use a hammer to bang it into the hole. (That’s what she said) But this will flatten the entire nose of the pin and will actually shorten it by a considerable amount. I remember almost 2cm. Now to be honest I don’t think this will affect anything. However, when you think about how much time it took to get this trans out you really don’t wanna do this again.

The second method is to use the open part of a socket. 17mm I believe. The deep end. This doesn’t flatten the nose but you have a new issue. The little ring in the middle ends up getting smashed and you cannot fit the spring in! Once again I’d skip this.

And my preferred method was to use the BACK of a 3/8” socket. This will spread the force out along the nose and minimize smashing.

Photo below shows what happens from the hammer method.

And be sure to hit it straight on. It will bend very easily.
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Old Wed, Oct-16-2019, 01:17:14 AM   #17
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Default Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by Nfaj View Post
Will I have to replace the pressure plate then?


If you’re using a stock pressure plate then yes you will. The pressure plate is self adjusting so unless you have the $1000 reset tool just buy the new pressure plate for 300 with the clutch.

and the list that monkey made earlier is perfect. This is the ultimate “while you’re in there” job lol
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Old Wed, Oct-16-2019, 01:26:54 AM   #18
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

On an e46 non-M I had the slave cylinder shaft where through the clutch fork. When you depressed the clutch all the way it would contact the pressure plate making a horrible sound. Nothing to do with rpm though. Now I know why they recommend you replace those when you do a clutch job.
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Old Sat, Oct-19-2019, 04:51:27 AM   #19
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by Whitehawk8 View Post
Did you install that pivot pin. Cause here’s the thing.

The brass ones don’t just slide right in. They are slightly bigger than the hole they’re made to go in.
I used a file and ground down the end that goes into the bellhousing. Just in case that thing has to come back out again at some point, if you force it in there you will have a hellavatime getting it out.

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Old Sat, Oct-19-2019, 04:56:41 AM   #20
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Default Re: Clutch pedal vibration and grinding

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Originally Posted by Whitehawk8 View Post
If you’re using a stock pressure plate then yes you will. The pressure plate is self adjusting so unless you have the $1000 reset tool just buy the new pressure plate for 300 with the clutch.

and the list that monkey made earlier is perfect. This is the ultimate “while you’re in there” job lol
The SAC reset can be done with a 3 jaw puller and a screw driver, if the pp is in good shape still. There are some threads on the forum and few youtube videos on how to do it. It is pretty simple and the tool (which I believe ECS sells) is not needed. Other route is to borrow the tool, but I don't think I've seen anyone in the rental thread advertise it.

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Discussing Clutch pedal vibration and grinding in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)