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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Jun-07-2019, 05:32:55 PM   #31
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

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Originally Posted by Andrebxp View Post
Any particular reason not to use more water, or water wetter?
Coolant has anticorrosion additives and acts as a lubricant to ur water pump. I wouldn't run a higher mix of water unless extreme heat. A higher mix of water does absorb more heat than coolant but at a cost.
Regarding water wetter, why fix an issue with a bandaid rather than addressing the root cause and be done?
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Old Fri, Jun-07-2019, 05:57:45 PM   #32
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

Water wetter does have negative issues long term, too.
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Old Fri, Jun-07-2019, 06:30:15 PM   #33
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

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Originally Posted by Andrebxp View Post
Any particular reason not to use more water, or water wetter?
For what it's worth, Koyorad ships with a big warning saying that using water wetter or similar products will void the warranty.

I ran with a majority distilled water and regretted it due to corrosion all over my cooling system.. I still need to flush it /sigh
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Old Sat, Jun-08-2019, 06:52:00 PM   #34
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

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Originally Posted by Drewster View Post
For what it's worth, Koyorad ships with a big warning saying that using water wetter or similar products will void the warranty.
Yep mine came with this warning. I’m running 80/20 mix and so far it’s working good.


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Old Sun, Jun-09-2019, 06:16:58 AM   #35
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

Running only a Spal puller w/CSF radiator. My needle never goes above center. I also completely overhauled the cooling system.
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Old Sun, Jun-09-2019, 06:48:01 AM   #36
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

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Trust me guys, I’ve been running the heat in my black on black car in 85-99 degree heat. I’m not too happy about it. It seems like there is no consensus on the best setup. I’m going in there to replace everything from a maintenance standpoint anyways in the cooling system. I’m just trying to determine which radiator/fan setup I’m going with. IN AN ABUNDANCE OF CAUTION, and with the knowledge that the car will see the track in high ambient temps, I’m going to go with a SPAL fan and a new aftermarket radiator, probably the Koyo or CSF radiator, most likely the Koyo. I’m also going to switch up my coolant ratio.


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Old Mon, Jun-10-2019, 02:07:48 AM   #37
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

Seems like a capacity issue to me if the fans are operating as intended. Either water pump not cycling the fluid effectively or rad has lost quite a bit of efficiency - or maybe both. As others have suggested, properly functioning oil cooler can help bring down water temp, but seems to me that refreshing rad/pump maybe a good start.
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Old Mon, Oct-14-2019, 03:02:09 AM   #38
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

As an update to anyone who finds this down the line. I replaced the fan clutch, fan, and flushed the system (about 15 times, who knows that idiot had it before me). Changed my coolant ratio using the approved recommend coolant to 70/30 and I’ve had no issues at all since then. Lesson learned, it’s usually the easiest solution to go with first. I am, however, still interested in an aftermarket radiator and will update. I log my temps because I’m OCD. After I lock down the VANOS (just out of the reach of my mechanical ability) and subframe reinforced I’m going to reassess the cooling situation. I’ve done some HPDE events but every bump I feel like I’m punishing my subframe and today is the day.

Anyone having these issues in traffic it’s likely your fan clutch, and you might as well replace the fan while you are in there. Don’t forget to purchase the bolts for the fan clutch! For 3 dollars you can save yourself a hell of a lot of time and a trip to the dealer. The original bolts will be stuck in there and strip despite all of your efforts. Pickup some locktite, throw that sucker in and you are good for around $100 bucks (if you are brave enough to go OEM, if you plan to run the setup forever spring for OE) all in. Oh and adjust your coolant ratio to your climate. I live in NC. It’s hotter than hell most of the time then it’s winter. ^Everyone above truly had the first and right answer, even if they differed.


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Old Mon, Oct-14-2019, 03:34:10 AM   #39
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh1179 View Post
As an update to anyone who finds this down the line. I replaced the fan clutch, fan, and flushed the system (about 15 times, who knows that idiot had it before me). Changed my coolant ratio using the approved recommend coolant to 70/30 and I’ve had no issues at all since then. Lesson learned, it’s usually the easiest solution to go with first. I am, however, still interested in an aftermarket radiator and will update. I log my temps because I’m OCD. After I lock down the VANOS (just out of the reach of my mechanical ability) and subframe reinforced I’m going to reassess the cooling situation. I’ve done some HPDE events but every bump I feel like I’m punishing my subframe and today is the day.

Anyone having these issues in traffic it’s likely your fan clutch, and you might as well replace the fan while you are in there. Don’t forget to purchase the bolts for the fan clutch! For 3 dollars you can save yourself a hell of a lot of time and a trip to the dealer. The original bolts will be stuck in there and strip despite all of your efforts. Pickup some locktite, throw that sucker in and you are good for around $100 bucks (if you are brave enough to go OEM, if you plan to run the setup forever spring for OE) all in. Oh and adjust your coolant ratio to your climate. I live in NC. It’s hotter than hell most of the time then it’s winter. ^Everyone above truly had the first and right answer, even if they differed.


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Also, should you choose this method and you have just purchased your vehicle from a previous owner, go ahead and purchase a new temp sensor. The temp sensor flush method is well documented. That’s the one you want to go with. The problem you are going to run in to is your sensors may be cemented in the lower radiator hose because of age/overheating/poor quality o-rings...etc. I’m not talking stuck. I’m talking cemented. I had to zip tie the release tabs, and pull on the sensor as hard as I could in a directly upward motion. As hard as I could. I got lucky and after 1-2 hours of wiggling, yanking, wiggling, yanking it popped out with a glorious geyser of coolant. When you get your new sensor WAIT! @WOLFN8TR sells a viton o-ring set for the whole cooling system. You should buy it. I think I bought the first set. I’d also consider purchasing a lower radiator hose, because you might not get so lucky yanking the sensor out. I was going that route but the LR hose is welded on with the o ring too....but that’s a problem for another day. I hope this helps someone out there.

P.S @Obioban that car is way too beautiful to put on the track. I saw the interior in a recent for sale post you had. Nice rig.


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Old Mon, Oct-14-2019, 03:56:26 AM   #40
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Default Re: Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance

Anything other than straight race car..... OE rad.
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Discussing Overheating in Traffic—Aftermarket Radiator Daily Performance in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)