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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, Sep-22-2017, 07:52:45 PM   #1
tykluss18
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Thumbs down P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

Having learned a lesson in myself suggesting a diagnosis and seeking validation of my guesses, I am just going to describe my symptoms and let you guys chime in with your opinions of what you think is wrong.

Here’s what’s up:

At 96,623 miles in January of this year, I replaced the head gasket using all the proper tools. Cam Blocks, flywheel lock pin, tensioner lock pin, VANOS turning wrench, etc. When I replaced the head gasket, that is all I replaced (aside from new supplementary gaskets). I didn’t do any other “while you’re in there” type work. The car now has 102,600 miles.

This car is not my daily driver but I drive it every weekend.

For the past couple months I have had issues starting the car. It has always started but it can take a few tries. The starter will engage and disengage without the car actually firing up. It seems to have this issue more when the car is warm and less when the car is cold. I figured I’d have to replace the starter soon and since the car had reliably started (albeit after a couple tries) I didn’t think too much of it.

When the car starts from cold it can idle irregularly. Sometimes as if it is “choked” with a high idle until I lightly blip the throttle to make the idle return to a normal level. Sometimes it will start with a low idle with some misfiring. Again, it will return to a normal (though sometimes with a normal cold misfire) at idle. When I changed the head gasket I figured I disturbed some vacuum lines and again, didn’t think too much of it.

Today I drove the car (started on the first try) for nearly an hour on a spirited pleasure drive. When I got to my coffee stop I let the car sit for nearly 45 minutes. When I went out to start the car, it took a couple tries. Then, when it did fire it felt initially like it had a serious misfire for a couple seconds, I blipped the throttle and the idle returned to normal, only this time the car threw a check engine light. Thinking it recognized a misfire, I drove it home.

When I got home I pulled it into the garage turned it off and read the codes.

It turned the ignition to “on” and read P1519 “Manufacturer Specific DTC” and P0340 “Cam Position Sensor Bank 1 Malfunction” codes. I noted these, cleared them and turned the car on again. The same codes were found in “pending codes”. I turned the off and on again, and the CEL came on. The same codes showed up in read codes.

Now, I MAY have noticed reduced power in the higher rev range while on my drive AFTER the CEL came on. But, for a while now, before the CEL came on the car I’ve felt that the car could be down on power overall. My friend’s identical car before and after his VANOS reseal has seemed faster.

So far, I have read that the P1519 is a VANOS mechanical failure code. I’ve read that this can be the VANOS unit’s internal seals and/or the VANOS solenoid. Additionally, the Cam positioning sensor(s) could be bad. I have also read that incorrect cam timing could be the cause, especially If I have had the head off recently. However, the car has had no symptoms of incorrect timing that I have noticed since I replaced the head gasket. I pulled the valve cover and nothing looks abnormal. The cam lobes look good. Tension is still on the chains, etc.

The fact that I am getting two codes at once makes me think that one is related to the other but they could be mutually exclusive.


Questions:

1. As I understand it, the cam positioning sensor reads the cams when they are driven by the starter or engine momentum to tell the ECU when to fire spark and fuel. Could a bad cam positioning sensor cause my starting issues?

2. Could a bad cam positioning sensor cause the VANOS specific code?

3. Alternatively, could the VANOS solenoid being bad or the VANOS internal seals cause the cam positioning sensor code?

4. Can the car still run seemingly fine while being figuratively or literally “off a tooth” but perhaps fall out of parameters and give me issues down the road?

5. Is there anything else that it could be that I am not thinking of?

6. What would a recommended course of action be?

7. What oil should I run?

8. JK


Any help is appreciated. Thanks
__________________
1997 M3 Coupe, 102k Miles, 5 speed, Cosmosschwarz Metallic, UUC Evo 3 SSK, DSSR & ZHP Shift Knob, Original Staggered M Contours, Original Spare Tire, Factory Heckspoiler, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports, De-restricted airbox, AFE Dry Pro S drop-in filter, Stromüng Cat-back Exhaust

WANT TO BUY

Factory E36 In-Car Phone Kit, Factory OEM Gas Cap with Decals Intact, Factory-Working Re-Chargable Flashlight, New Driver's M3 Floor Mat, European Oil Pressure Gauge, ZKW front headlight set, "City Lights" Relay, 1990's Westlake Rusnak Original License Plate Frame

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Old Mon, Sep-25-2017, 07:27:17 PM   #2
thirtysixnick
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Default Re: P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

bump for starting issue, but little different for me...

Every time I let my car sit for more than probably 5/6 hours it takes about a good 10 seconds of cranking the engine with no start, turning the key back, turning forward again, and then firing right up.
This is typically worse when hot vs. cold.

Want to say my issue is fuel related as the idle is damn near perfect after and no CEL.

This issue came up for me after I had my top end rebuilt, taken back to the shop for a Vanos Mech. Stuck code, and got it back.
Didn't want to take back to the shop that worked on it as I'm about 9/10 sure they'd take way too long to fix it, and I need it for daily duty...
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Old Mon, Sep-25-2017, 07:45:57 PM   #3
Braymond141
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Default Re: P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

Quote:
Originally Posted by tykluss18 View Post
Having learned a lesson in myself suggesting a diagnosis and seeking validation of my guesses, I am just going to describe my symptoms and let you guys chime in with your opinions of what you think is wrong.

Here’s what’s up:

At 96,623 miles in January of this year, I replaced the head gasket using all the proper tools. Cam Blocks, flywheel lock pin, tensioner lock pin, VANOS turning wrench, etc. When I replaced the head gasket, that is all I replaced (aside from new supplementary gaskets). I didn’t do any other “while you’re in there” type work. The car now has 102,600 miles.

This car is not my daily driver but I drive it every weekend.

For the past couple months I have had issues starting the car. It has always started but it can take a few tries. The starter will engage and disengage without the car actually firing up. It seems to have this issue more when the car is warm and less when the car is cold. I figured I’d have to replace the starter soon and since the car had reliably started (albeit after a couple tries) I didn’t think too much of it.

When the car starts from cold it can idle irregularly. Sometimes as if it is “choked” with a high idle until I lightly blip the throttle to make the idle return to a normal level. Sometimes it will start with a low idle with some misfiring. Again, it will return to a normal (though sometimes with a normal cold misfire) at idle. When I changed the head gasket I figured I disturbed some vacuum lines and again, didn’t think too much of it.

Today I drove the car (started on the first try) for nearly an hour on a spirited pleasure drive. When I got to my coffee stop I let the car sit for nearly 45 minutes. When I went out to start the car, it took a couple tries. Then, when it did fire it felt initially like it had a serious misfire for a couple seconds, I blipped the throttle and the idle returned to normal, only this time the car threw a check engine light. Thinking it recognized a misfire, I drove it home.

When I got home I pulled it into the garage turned it off and read the codes.

It turned the ignition to “on” and read P1519 “Manufacturer Specific DTC” and P0340 “Cam Position Sensor Bank 1 Malfunction” codes. I noted these, cleared them and turned the car on again. The same codes were found in “pending codes”. I turned the off and on again, and the CEL came on. The same codes showed up in read codes.

Now, I MAY have noticed reduced power in the higher rev range while on my drive AFTER the CEL came on. But, for a while now, before the CEL came on the car I’ve felt that the car could be down on power overall. My friend’s identical car before and after his VANOS reseal has seemed faster.

So far, I have read that the P1519 is a VANOS mechanical failure code. I’ve read that this can be the VANOS unit’s internal seals and/or the VANOS solenoid. Additionally, the Cam positioning sensor(s) could be bad. I have also read that incorrect cam timing could be the cause, especially If I have had the head off recently. However, the car has had no symptoms of incorrect timing that I have noticed since I replaced the head gasket. I pulled the valve cover and nothing looks abnormal. The cam lobes look good. Tension is still on the chains, etc.

The fact that I am getting two codes at once makes me think that one is related to the other but they could be mutually exclusive.


Questions:

1. As I understand it, the cam positioning sensor reads the cams when they are driven by the starter or engine momentum to tell the ECU when to fire spark and fuel. Could a bad cam positioning sensor cause my starting issues?

2. Could a bad cam positioning sensor cause the VANOS specific code?

3. Alternatively, could the VANOS solenoid being bad or the VANOS internal seals cause the cam positioning sensor code?

4. Can the car still run seemingly fine while being figuratively or literally “off a tooth” but perhaps fall out of parameters and give me issues down the road?

5. Is there anything else that it could be that I am not thinking of?

6. What would a recommended course of action be?

7. What oil should I run?

8. JK


Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I'm becoming a broken record now but; hand tools are not enough to set the timing on the VANOS. You must use the air tool too. I would redo it properly with air (I don't care what guide or who says otherwise, use air) and then see where it is all at.




Nick, given the shop that did your work... could be any number of things.
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Old Tue, Sep-26-2017, 03:16:06 AM   #4
thirtysixnick
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Default Re: P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
Nick, given the shop that did your work... could be any number of things.
Would starting with the fuel pump be a good start?
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Old Sat, Sep-30-2017, 03:34:47 AM   #5
tykluss18
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Default Re: P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

I'll read up on using the air tool. Bentley says I need # 11 3 450, correct?

Also, update: I've replaced the cam positioning sensor with a Meyle unit. I also tested the VANOS solenoid. It activates normally. Unfortunately though I did not read the Bentley manual before this procedure (page 117-15) and was not made aware that polarity must be observed. May have screwed up the internal diode doing so.

I started the car, it now runs. But, the P0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor CKT) code is back. The P1519 code is in pending. There is also a audible ticking that sounds like a fuel injector.

Tomorrow I'm going to check mechanicals. Checking compression first (making sure that clicking isn't a valve!!) and then checking synchronization of the cams (inserting flywheel lock pin at TDC and making sure the cam blocks fit. Then I'll test the VANOS by the Bentley book. Hoping the VANOS seals have gone at this point. At least then I'll know what it is and how to fix it. I do hope that a VANOS error is also causing the camshaft position sensor code.

Also, could a misfiring fuel injector be causing the camshaft position sensor code?
__________________
1997 M3 Coupe, 102k Miles, 5 speed, Cosmosschwarz Metallic, UUC Evo 3 SSK, DSSR & ZHP Shift Knob, Original Staggered M Contours, Original Spare Tire, Factory Heckspoiler, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports, De-restricted airbox, AFE Dry Pro S drop-in filter, Stromüng Cat-back Exhaust

WANT TO BUY

Factory E36 In-Car Phone Kit, Factory OEM Gas Cap with Decals Intact, Factory-Working Re-Chargable Flashlight, New Driver's M3 Floor Mat, European Oil Pressure Gauge, ZKW front headlight set, "City Lights" Relay, 1990's Westlake Rusnak Original License Plate Frame

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Old Mon, Oct-09-2017, 07:26:28 PM   #6
tykluss18
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Default Re: P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help

UPDATE: Meyle sensors are crap. Buy OEM for this application. Tested with a used and new sensor, both worked. Fixed both the P0340 and P1519 codes
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1997 M3 Coupe, 102k Miles, 5 speed, Cosmosschwarz Metallic, UUC Evo 3 SSK, DSSR & ZHP Shift Knob, Original Staggered M Contours, Original Spare Tire, Factory Heckspoiler, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports, De-restricted airbox, AFE Dry Pro S drop-in filter, Stromüng Cat-back Exhaust

WANT TO BUY

Factory E36 In-Car Phone Kit, Factory OEM Gas Cap with Decals Intact, Factory-Working Re-Chargable Flashlight, New Driver's M3 Floor Mat, European Oil Pressure Gauge, ZKW front headlight set, "City Lights" Relay, 1990's Westlake Rusnak Original License Plate Frame

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Long Live Cannonball Baker

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Discussing P1519 AND P0340 at the same time help in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)