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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Sun, Dec-21-2014, 02:46:42 PM   #1
hakentt-mss54
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Default rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

BMW changed the design of both front and rear crankshaft seals for the 1998 year. Early one is spring loaded traditional seal and later and current ones are non spring loaded multi rib lip seal that requires special tool to install.

I wonder why change it on E36 if earlier ones did great job? And it seems the later ones soon as they get stiff a bit they lose their seal because of no constant tension of spring.

1996+ has totally redesigned crankcase ventilation system were it is at constant 5hg/in negative pressure in the crankcase. This means that some people experienced honking noise coming from air being drawn in on both seals.

-1995 models are never under vacuum, crankcase is simply vented to before the throttle.

To make things worse new version seal is $100
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Old Sun, Dec-21-2014, 03:51:38 PM   #2
fiveightandten
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Default Re: rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

I did mine quite some time ago when the replacement clutch went in. I thought I remembered both the original and replacement being spring loaded (1998 M3 sedan), but it was a while back. I don't remember what I had for dinner last night, let alone in 2007.

I did experience the "honking" noise from my original seal. I remember that specifically, as it reared its head after some high RPM activity one day, and didn't go away until I replaced the clutch and consequently the seal. It was audibly coming from the RMS.
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Old Wed, Jun-20-2018, 07:19:24 AM   #3
jonyoung04
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Default Re: rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

Bringing up an old thread. I'm sure most of you know BMW changed their rear main seal design to include no tension spring. I've searched and found mixed reviews searching forums and also reading the product reviews on Pelicanparts, fcp euro, and ECS tuning. I'd like to gather a consensus for those of you who have done a RMS changel.

Option 1: go with revised OEM replacement (P/N 1142249533)
Option 2: go with old design with tension spring (Victor Reinz, SKF, Rein)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Wed, Jun-20-2018, 03:33:22 PM   #4
NolliM3
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Default Re: rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

I just changed the rear main seal and honestly, I didn't notice whether it had the tension spring; however, I bought a genuine BMW one from ECS for my 95M3 so that would have the spring.
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Old Thu, Jun-21-2018, 06:42:04 AM   #5
jonyoung04
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Default Re: rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

Quote:
Originally Posted by NolliM3 View Post
I just changed the rear main seal and honestly, I didn't notice whether it had the tension spring; however, I bought a genuine BMW one from ECS for my 95M3 so that would have the spring.

Thanks for the reply. If you plug in your 95 S50 motor on ECS, the rear main seal that comes up is the revised seal without a spring. Do you mind sharing your installation procedures and any tips you recommend?
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Old Thu, Jun-21-2018, 11:13:41 AM   #6
JPoland
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Default Re: rear main seal design, OLD vs. NEW discussion

Ive done the RMS 3 times. First time I inserted too far and had to redo. Second time I got it using some sealant around the outside. Third time I thought my RMS was bad but it wasn't. I walked already in there and had the new one so I took a gamble. On that third time i got the OEM RMS already inserted in the carrier. It comes with the white plastic tool to make sure you dont fold the inside lips over the crank. It went in quick and worked the first time. I'd recommend getting the seal in the carrier. It takes much of the issue out. Don't worry so much about the spring vs non-spring. I've not heard of issues either way.
Also, I don't seem to recall hearing much about people's front crank seal going bad. I wouldn't do it unless you know you have a problem. With the RMS (without it coming already inserted into the carrier) many have said your chances of a good seal are 50/50. I've experienced this elsewhere (transmission input seal) if it is a critical seal and isn't leaking, don't mess with it. Just my $.02
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Discussing Vacuum leak test in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)