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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 02:28:13 AM   #1
Surk///M
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Default DIY--E46 M3 Thermostat & W\Pump Replacement

Since my car started overheating recently..what I thought was just a thermostat, became a W\pump replacement also..so I thought I'd add this DIY for the E46 M3 T-stat and W\pump replacement. My car is a 2001 with 88k miles, so preventatively I would suggest owners consider doing this DIY anywhere from 75-100k miles.

TOOLS:

VARIOUS--3/8 ratchet, 8-10-13mm sockets, T50 Torx socket, Pliers,
32mm wrench for clutch fan removal, BMW antifreeze x2, distilled water x2,

Thermostat Replacement ONLY >> Difficulty=4\10

BMW Parts req'd--
11531318274 x1--Thermostat
11531318402 x1--Thermostat O-ring
11537830709 x2 --O-ring for water pipe
BMW Antifreeze & distilled water, 1 bottle Redline Water Wetter (if in hot climates)



Jack the front of car up and support properly

1) Remove airbox completely and fan shroud, clutch fan removal (easier)
2) remove 3 top 10mm bolts where engine hook is located at thermostat, have catch pail cans avail as their will be coolant spillage.
3) remove both hose clamps to the thermostat housing (once shroud is removed for access)
4 Remove the 3 long 10mm bolts securing the thermostat housing and pull towards front of car to dislodge sealing O-ring in back pipe.. Remove housing along with T-stat.. I marked the location of the original T-stat being it was in a 1:35 pm "clocked" location on the housing..
4) Fit new T-stat and T-stat O-ring seal into housing, clock according to your markings.. replace rear pipe O-ring(s) lube with dish soap, re-install pushing fwd, and sequence torque 3 bolts to 11 Ft\Ibs or 15Nm.

5) SLOWLY refill system through reservoir using your 50/50 mixture of BMW coolant, bleed according to this helpful link http://home.kc.rr.com/blankpages/M3/...hange_DIY.html and monitor temp guage RECHECK after car has cooled\warmed over several few days. (3 drive cycles of overnight cooling)


WATER PUMP Replacement >> Difficulty level=5\10

PARTS:

11517838159 x1 W\Pump
11517831099 x1 Gskt
11537830712 x2 O-rings at w\pump sides


1) Follow above T-stat removal that will expose the W\Pump.. Remove the 4x 10mm w\pump pulley bolts, relieve the belt and tension by disconnecting the belt at the tensioner..After you remove the belt pulley, you will see 5 x10mm bolts that secure the w\pump (1 is hidden directly under the shaft) pull the w\pump fwd, while pulling the leftside water pipe feed outwards (Left side) with your free hand.

2) Now is a good time to consider a Complete Coolant Flush especially if like me I had leftovers from my impeller in my old coolant, also examine the condition of your idler & tensioner pulleys and belts..it's a good time to replace them also since you have things apart. Replace all the O-rings I noted in my pic, and pre-lube with liquid dish soap to aid in re-install.

Tighten w\pump securing bolts to 11 ft|Ibs or 15Nm .. re-install fan, shroud,airbox, lower panel etc..and refill according to above Flush DIY.

3) *OPTIONAL*--Since I had the engine drain bolt removed doing a complete coolant flush, I also decided to rinse the RAD and Engine block (through the t=stat housing to cyl head pipe using a garden hose) Was surprised to see lots of crap\sediment come out that I would've missed otherwise)

4) Reinstall in reverse of removal, refill system slowly, thoroughly bleed system and recheck for a few days after a few heat\cool cycles..

***Hope this helps those whom are DIY inclined,..I would give this a 4.5\10 for difficulty depending on experience, it's pretty straight fwd once everything is exposed. Takes approx 2-4 hrs depending on facility--take your time and enjoy the fact that once done..you $aved yourself $$$ and can spend it towards other important mods.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Thermo1.jpg (88.8 KB, 2260 views)
File Type: jpg Thermo2.jpg (93.5 KB, 1914 views)
File Type: jpg WP2.jpg (79.0 KB, 1780 views)
File Type: jpg WP3.jpg (225.1 KB, 1816 views)
File Type: jpg WP4.jpg (142.6 KB, 1821 views)

Last edited by Surk///M; Thu, Oct-16-2008 at 03:39:15 AM.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 02:33:54 AM   #2
babydevilj
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how much is the pump and the thermostat? good reminder + writeup. is the new pump a metal impeller or plastic?
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 02:41:09 AM   #3
Surk///M
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BMW Oem pump is the expensive parts of this job... can't imagine what dealer would have charge.. New pump is updated..looks like a stronger composite design..

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Originally Posted by babydevilj View Post
how much is the pump and the thermostat? good reminder + writeup. is the new pump a metal impeller or plastic?
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Last edited by Surk///M; Fri, Oct-24-2008 at 06:48:01 PM.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 02:43:26 AM   #4
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Did mine at 45,000. My new pump came with a plastic/compostie impeller. Good DIY.

Pretty straight forward job.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 03:26:22 AM   #5
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Thanks for the write up. I will be doing this soon along with my zionsville radiator. Any other tips?
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 03:34:28 AM   #6
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Great writeup, thanks for the contribution.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 04:08:36 AM   #7
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Just take it slow and dbl check your work..I changed my tensioner idler also while in there since I find the worst of this job is fan and shroud removal= PITA..

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Originally Posted by m3 guy View Post
Thanks for the write up. I will be doing this soon along with my zionsville radiator. Any other tips?
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 05:33:09 AM   #8
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+1 for the write up. could come in handy in the future.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 05:48:12 AM   #9
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Great DIY!!! I hope I won't have any problem on my car.
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Old Wed, Oct-15-2008, 01:45:48 PM   #10
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Moderators >> Plz move this to DIY section
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Discussing DIY--E46 M3 Thermostat & W\Pump Replacement in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)