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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Mon, May-15-2017, 11:08:27 AM   #71
egebhardt
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

Front Passenger Door Lock Problem
On Sunday, I tried to fix the door lock problem on the front passenger door. I figured it would be a simple door lock actuator replacement problem but it has turned out to be much harder. Go figure; 20yo car! The door unlocks automatically but does not lock automatically. You have to push the button down manually. This car does not have a remote entry system with FOBs.

Things I tried:
1 - replaced the right front door lock actuator - no go
2 - removed and tested the door-jam micro switch. Upon pushing the button, it connects the circuit so I know it works. no go
3 - disconnected the fuel door switch - no go
4 - disconnected the battery and reconnected it - no go
5 - removed the sheath on the infamous wire loom in trunk. looks perfect
6 - put the old lock actuator back in. the door unlocks sometimes and never locks - i think it's failing
7 - swapped driver and passenger actuators - same problem - no go - EDIT: The problem moved to the driver side. Faulty new actuator.
8 - removed and inspected latch assembly - no go
9 - all the other door and window electronics work perfectly

Any ideas? I'll be doing more research and I'm open to suggestions. I know the actuator replaces easily without removing the latch assembly but I pulled it out anyway to clean and lube what I could. It's a very enclosed little doo-hickey. Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg door lock actuator.JPG (490.9 KB, 18 views)

Last edited by egebhardt; Fri, Jun-30-2017 at 10:54:07 PM.
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Old Tue, May-16-2017, 04:47:58 PM   #72
egebhardt
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

Update:
I took the car for a short drive to warm it up and re-inspect the 2 exhaust studs on the back of cylinder #3 after I re-torqued them to 20nm (15 ft/lbs per Bentley page 116-6). I shot a 5 minute video waiting for the drip to increase but it held steady. Bfc research often ended in, "my exhaust stud leak was residual oil from the leaking VCGasket that eventually went away". Maybe that's what happened to me. Maybe not. I can't say the leak is fixed but it is not as bad now. See 5min YouTube video link I shot.
"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqDhj4YQ4Cg

Every time I start the car, the start ends with a grinding sound. Sometimes, when starting, the starter just grinds. I stop and try again and it works fine. Something is wrong with the starter so I got a re-manufactured Bosch on Saturday. This is my first starter replacement so I learned if you think it will take 4 hours, double it. It's that difficult. I am using the top-removal-only method by getting the intake manifold out since I don't want to drop the tranny. I managed to get the starter out last night and now it's just a matter of getting the new one in and the intake manifold back on and the fuel injectors re-seated, etc...

I used the Bentley, PelicanParts and YouTube as research for this project. I also used an e12 torx end wrench to break-free the starter bolt closer to the passenger side. I used a 3/8" e12 torx socket on a 3/8" flex-head socket wrench to break-free the starter bolt closer to the driver side. Another YouTube video (not linked) showed a guy using a 1/4" drive with a 1/4"-3/8" stubby swivel and a 3/8" e12 torx flex-head socket. Do whatever you can to get a good purchase on those 2 torx bolts because you don't want to strip the heads. Now I just need to make sure I get the 3 wires back on right! The 2 big ones go together. The 8mm won't fit on the 10mm post so it will only work 1 way. There should be no problem. Then I'll use silver anti-seize grease on the reinstallation of those torx bolts so they don't fight me going like they did coming out.
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J54rKGFWwAA
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3ExhegyEKQ
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW02cH_YLI0
Attached Images
File Type: jpg starter hole.JPG (268.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg starters2.JPG (304.1 KB, 19 views)

Last edited by egebhardt; Wed, May-17-2017 at 05:30:51 AM.
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Old Wed, May-17-2017, 01:20:51 PM   #73
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

The difference in the starters...aside from what time did to the old one, (i.e., nose cone, body, etc.) is it a different manufacturer or something else?
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Old Wed, May-17-2017, 02:13:09 PM   #74
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

The starter is way easier from underneath from the 2 times I've done it. I reach between the control arm and frame rail to undo the terminals. Support the tail of the trans and undo the mount to lower it about an inch. Undo the 2 bolts with an extension and breaker bar. Then put a long bar on the start solonoid and give it a smack with a hammer to knock it off the dowel that's usually rusted.

As for your oil on exhaust. What you describe with the VCG is the issue I'm having. Replaced my gasket last year but I still have oil down the head and exhaust by number 5/6. Now that the exhaust and trans is out I can get it all scrubbed up finally.
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Old Wed, May-17-2017, 03:37:49 PM   #75
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

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Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
My wife is a WaterColor artist (on the side) and she explained how Byzanz Metalic 355 is a fugitive color. Fugitive means it typically fades and fails faster than other colors. Light-Fast (opposite of fugitive) colors hold up better in UV light over time. Byzanz is not a light-fast color. A lot of art colors are derived from R&D of the automotive industry which allows artists to have much better colors than they would otherwise. No matter how much money I spend on Byzanz paint, if I do at all, it is a fugitive color and needs to be kept out of the sun. Helrot experiences a similar failure. Since this car would have to sit outside, I would have to cover it religiously which is hard on the paint too. Moving on...
What would estoril be considered???
My car has been basking in the elements for almost a month now at a shop because they're taking their sweet time working on it.
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Old Wed, May-17-2017, 04:07:18 PM   #76
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

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Originally Posted by englishtom1596q View Post
The starter is way easier from underneath from the 2 times I've done it. I reach between the control arm and frame rail to undo the terminals. Support the tail of the trans and undo the mount to lower it about an inch. Undo the 2 bolts with an extension and breaker bar. Then put a long bar on the start solonoid and give it a smack with a hammer to knock it off the dowel that's usually rusted.

As for your oil on exhaust. What you describe with the VCG is the issue I'm having. Replaced my gasket last year but I still have oil down the head and exhaust by number 5/6. Now that the exhaust and trans is out I can get it all scrubbed up finally.
Thanks but how do you get the starter out of it's spot? Maybe you get the ICV, MAF, Airbox out of the way and that's enough. I might consider that next time. Dealing with the fuel rail alone was a lot of time. Then wrestling the manifold with all those hoses and electrical connetions makes me wonder why someone would do an S50 manifold swap. I just don't need 10 more horse near redline since I'm never near redline.

As for the exhaust stud leak, I noticed the bubbling on the exhaust studs only when the SAP (secondary air pump) is running for the first 2 minutes. I'm less worried about that issue now and it also never leaves a drip on the floor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thirtysixnick View Post
What would estoril be considered???
My car has been basking in the elements for almost a month now at a shop because they're taking their sweet time working on it.
My personal experience with 3 Estorils is that the blue holds up very well in the sun from BMW. Typically, reds are fugitive colors and UV light fades it. Paint technology is improving but red will always be hard. If I were you, I'd get the car back, wash and wax the tops surfaces, and do the math on fixing it yourself. To preserve these cars and make them affordable, you have to do the work yourself. Why is the car at a shop?

Update:
I got everything back together and the new starter worked perfect! No funny screeching noise. This job gave me a chance to put on a new intake manifold gasket and get the fuel injectors off. They all looked good and it will be MUCH easier to get them off again if I need to because I put some light oil on the injector seals.
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98 TiSilver on Black 4dr - Sold 7.19.17 Jono driving it
97 Byzanz on Magma 4dr - Sold 7.7.17 Jerad in CO
98 Estoril on Grey 4dr - Sold 9.23.13 Garrett driving it
98 Arctic on Grey 4dr - Sold 3.18.13 Brandon driving it
98 Estoril on Grey 2dr - Sold 8.6.12 Thy sold it
99 Estoril on Sand 2dr - Sold 7.31.12 Eric modding it
98 Arctic on Grey 2dr - Sold 3.10.12 Kyle driving it
96 Techno on Black 2dr-Sold 6.13.09 Ross totaled it

Last edited by egebhardt; Fri, Jun-30-2017 at 10:55:23 PM.
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Old Wed, May-17-2017, 11:35:56 PM   #77
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

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Originally Posted by Double E View Post
The difference in the starters...aside from what time did to the old one, (i.e., nose cone, body, etc.) is it a different manufacturer or something else?
A flyer came in the box. It showed a picture of both starters. It said the dirty-old one was Version 2 and the one in the box was Version 1. They both work but I don't know the difference.
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Old Thu, May-18-2017, 12:03:39 AM   #78
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

I'll check on the starter removal when I get home. I've only removed the starter when pulling the trans but I thought there's enough room to slip it down somewhere.
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Old Fri, May-19-2017, 05:34:31 AM   #79
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Default Re: The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love

Update:
I took apart the old screeching starter and cleaned it and lubed it in a quick manner. It sounded better after that but the new one is in so I took back the core for $25 credit. It was fun to test it. That's what a 20yo starter looks like in pieces. I bet it could have lasted another 5 years.

Magma is a color I've never sewn before so I made a trip to JoAnn fabrics to get a nice brown thread. I started the repair on the driver's back cushion. I hope it turns out good. The replacement piece is Magma off the torn-up back seat so I got a perfect match.

The front bumper is obviously pushed in about an inch as you can see from earlier pictures. I suspected that front driver bumper shock was pushed in and sure enough, it was. The driver fender was repainted so it's obvious there was a fender bender. The repair shop failed to replace the shock and paint the Lux slats in Byzanz on the bumper.

The driver's door window seal was worn and cut and folding on the top. It was not making a good seal but I didn't want to spend $120 on Ebay for a new one. I found a used seal on Ebay for $38 and it arrived today. 2 hours to install that and it works perfectly! The install required removing the door panel again, then baby-powder. There was no need to remove the window because the front of the seal (which goes all the way down in front) was able to slide in as I worked the window up and down with the power button. There is a cut-out in the metal door frame that seems to be in just the right location.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg battery and starter.JPG (199.5 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg old starter.JPG (236.8 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg repair.JPG (301.9 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg bumper shocks.JPG (304.8 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg driver window seal.JPG (224.8 KB, 16 views)

Last edited by egebhardt; Fri, May-19-2017 at 04:32:16 PM.
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Old Fri, May-19-2017, 05:37:00 AM   #80
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^^^pics aren't loading.

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Discussing The Byzanz Sedan That Needs Some Love in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)