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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 03:39:48 PM   #11
Obioban
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Originally Posted by lsb View Post
Yes, the stock has been burnt twice. Once by a parking garage and once by me. Each time it took a few days to rid the smell.

When i bought the car the clutch seemed glazed and had no snapping power for clutch drops(14k miles), after autocrossing 5 or so times it grabbed all the time w/wider tires(295/19). I did some n/a mods all at once, now it slips when stabbing the throttle, but still spins 3rd on the limiter when clutching it.

Why would the clutch begin to grab after 15 miles or so of getting on it? Is it just at that point?

I do drive very hard, both autocross and street driving. I have had the car for 16k miles and not surprised that the clutch is now slipping. Thats my thought on a high performance clutch with performance benefits, mainly for my autocrossing.

It is not a dd but i do tend to when the weather is nice. And i understand why they came with a soft clutch, they are heavy cars and things break.
Only thing is i am not looking forwards to the looks and questions such as, whats wrong with your car, and whats that noise?
I don't know what's going on with it grabbing after 15 min.

Overal, though, my point is that I don't think you need an aftermarket clutch. The stock clutch is incredibly beefy, imo. So long as you don't glaze it, which really only happens because of driver ineptitude, you should be completely fine.

A friend of mine has a VF stg 2.5 car, 550hp... stock clutch, still not slipping at all after 6000 miles with the kit on. I doubt very much that your NA mods are phasing it much.

Unless you are getting the aftermarket clutch for the weight reduction benefit, and the weight decrease is worth the chatter to you, I'd still with a new OE clutch.

Regardless of what you get, I'd delete the CDV, bleed the line, and replace the pilot bearing, throw out bear, rear main seal, pressure plate, and tranny fluid while you're in there.
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 04:04:49 PM   #12
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Yes, the reason i am looking at this is for the weight benefit. I understand the noises, i wouldn't put thicker gear oil in the gearbox either when changing it.

As for the cdv valve i thought it should stay in to help protect from the clutch drop stocks i induce.
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 05:06:18 PM   #13
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Yes, the reason i am looking at this is for the weight benefit. I understand the noises, i wouldn't put thicker gear oil in the gearbox either when changing it.

As for the cdv valve i thought it should stay in to help protect from the clutch drop stocks i induce.
It protect it from shocks by forcing it to slip. Extreme slipping glazes. You have a failure due to glazing.

I'd get rid of it and protect the car from drivetrain shocks the old fashion way-- with your foot.
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Last edited by Obioban; Sun, Feb-21-2010 at 06:45:32 PM.
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 05:32:34 PM   #14
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I'd learn how to drive stick...
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 05:46:38 PM   #15
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Yea, thanks bro. I have had a stick 1987' m6, a stick 1987 biturbo, a stick rodeo and this m3. I drive porsches 5 days a week, how long have you been driving stick???

This m3 has had a soft clutch, and i drive it like i stole it, i wont change that.
I can drive stick just fine.

For a taste of my everyday habits ck this video, it may upset you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8jQjI46dN0
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 06:01:02 PM   #16
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I am here looking for conductive criticism, not jerk like responses.

The cdv delete is good advice and just lifting your foot off the clutch in a drop scenario does lessen the shock compared to side stepping the clutch peddle.
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 06:14:57 PM   #17
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Ok, I retract my statement. That's a pretty cool video and I can see why your clutch is toast so soon.

On a side note, how was that 87 m6?
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 06:21:21 PM   #18
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It was so nice, i had it as a 17-18 year old. Paid 25k for a car with 300hp 16.5" wheels. It was my second car, i put so much money into though. It could not take the type of abuse i gave out. People didnt know what it was though, "whats that, a fake m3". I was known for the car though.

Ps. It has been the only car i never maxed out. I was too young and it was too fast. It was supposed to be good for 165mph.
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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 06:46:00 PM   #19
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I didn't mean anything I said and critical, if it came off that way. I'm right there with you

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Old Sun, Feb-21-2010, 06:49:58 PM   #20
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The stock clutch really can up to a lot, though.

Here's mine at 98k (every mile driven by me):



And, it really did live a hard life. I initiate drifts with 2nd gear clutch pops almost every day, I track it, I drag race it, I launch it, etc etc. The stock clutch is amazingly robust, imo.

I replaced it because I had a weird drivetrain feeling that I assumed was the clutch. Turned out to be a failed guibo.

If you haven't already done them, driving the car the way you are I would get a subframe kit, PF RTABs, RE tranny mounts, and some RSMs.
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Discussing Clutch Masters FX600 in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)