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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 08:18:56 PM   #11
Fastdog911
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There is one more tube that none of the books talk about. This is a small oil bypass tube that is connected to the bottom of the intake and it is near the back of the box. Once you unbolt the IM you can lift it up just a bit to try to access this tube. Just pull it down the best you can and to install you will just push it back up until it clicks. Small hands on this are a real help. The shot with the intake upside down you can see how far back this tube sits in relationship to the other tubes which you can see from the front of the intake. This one caught me a bit by suprise.
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[IMG]2002 SMG, Topaz Blue, BHS pulleys, all options. UUC Exhaust, GC Sway bars, SS lines, BHP Pads F1 paddles, GSP brake pedal, Huber Optik 20%, Iforged rims and a bunch of other things.. Sold

1970 911T Tangerine
1972 911T Albert Blue
1970 911E Ossi Blue

Last edited by Fastdog911; Fri, Apr-24-2009 at 08:26:21 PM.
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 08:29:10 PM   #12
Fastdog911
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Now it is clamp time. For this I will use my clamp photo and on that photo you will see there are four "bumps" on the clamp. Going from left to right.. bump #1 does not come into play. Bump #2 is the part of the clamp that does the latching. There is a smaller bump that sits underneath it to make this connection. Bump #3 and Bump #4 are where you put your tool on. Act like bump #3 is fixed. Bump number #4 moves and you will be pinching bump #3 and #4 to move the clamp together. You will also use these two bumps to remove the clamp as well as install the clamp. The way the clamp is made it allows you to preset the clamp on the intake rubber gasket so they are already in place when you preinstall them on the intake for mounting. I know that might not make much sense and please if anyone can explain better please do so. After you have the clamps removed it is time to start to wiggle the IM off the throttle bodies. just try to wiggle it from side to side before you start pulling it right off ... once you get it going then the intake will come off in one section. For the SMG guys.. you will have fluid drips and leaking from the hose and the connetion point so have something laying around to keep your engine bay clean and your floor. At this point the unit is off and you can now do whatever you want with the IM. I used a lot of Simple Green to soak and clean the inside of the box and a lot of paper towels to clean off the horns etc.. Once you have box ready to install you will just do the opposite of how you took it off to install it. I used a very light mixture of liquid soap and water on the inside of the rubber gaskets so the intake would slide on to the throttle bodies. I also had to remove the one rail that was in the way for me to get the clamp tool on and that took a few extra minutes. Before you bolt the box back on make sure you get the small oil bypass tube to click back into the IM. I would do that before you bolt it back down. All of the other tubes go back on the way they came off. On the SMG tube you will be pushing the main tube back on to the fitting and then bringing the clip downwards until you hear it click and that will make the seal for the SMG fluild which in this case is PENTOSIN CHF 11S which you can find at the dealer, it is around $25.00 per bottle. Fill fluid tank back up to the normal level. Hope this helps.. On the first time doing it from start to finish it took around 1- 1.5 hours.. it is messy, tight working conditions and you have to allow for the time it takes to remove the airbox, cabin air box thing etc...
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[IMG]2002 SMG, Topaz Blue, BHS pulleys, all options. UUC Exhaust, GC Sway bars, SS lines, BHP Pads F1 paddles, GSP brake pedal, Huber Optik 20%, Iforged rims and a bunch of other things.. Sold

1970 911T Tangerine
1972 911T Albert Blue
1970 911E Ossi Blue

Last edited by Fastdog911; Fri, Apr-24-2009 at 09:35:05 PM.
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 09:03:34 PM   #13
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While I was in there I cleaned up the engine bay and also the throttle bodies as they were really dirty. I put some plastic sheeting over the tubes so they would not leak all over the engine bay as I gave it a detail while I was in there..
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[IMG]2002 SMG, Topaz Blue, BHS pulleys, all options. UUC Exhaust, GC Sway bars, SS lines, BHP Pads F1 paddles, GSP brake pedal, Huber Optik 20%, Iforged rims and a bunch of other things.. Sold

1970 911T Tangerine
1972 911T Albert Blue
1970 911E Ossi Blue

Last edited by Fastdog911; Fri, Apr-24-2009 at 09:11:21 PM.
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 09:14:50 PM   #14
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thanks mate for the write up, going to be attempting to replace my starter soon and was looking for a DIY on removing the IM.....
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 09:34:53 PM   #15
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Next step, replace with VFE manifold and install SC.
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 09:39:01 PM   #16
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Nice write up, thanks!
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Old Fri, Apr-24-2009, 11:44:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastdog911 View Post
For the SMG guys.. you will have fluid drips and leaking from the hose and the connetion point so have something laying around to keep your engine bay clean and your floor. At this point the unit is off and you can now do whatever you want with the IM.
Keep in mind that the SMG resevoir is a vented system...so try to keep the IM (with resevoir attached) in an upright position, or else you will have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the cap.

Thanks for the write-up
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Old Sat, Apr-25-2009, 12:48:23 AM   #18
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Would you say 5 hours is an appropriate time for this, start to finish?
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Old Sat, Apr-25-2009, 01:23:09 AM   #19
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I would say 3 hours Mash. I am sure you can do it faster but it is the type of job that you need to take some time on and if you have big hands it would be really hard to do this type of work quickly..your wrist and hands are at funky angles under the IM. It took me 2+ hours to clean up the throttle bodies with carb cleaner and a hour to clean the box out. Dealer didn't have clamps so that was 3-4 days and it took 1 day to find and get the tool to remove the clamps. Dealer did have the Pentosin CHF in stock
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[IMG]2002 SMG, Topaz Blue, BHS pulleys, all options. UUC Exhaust, GC Sway bars, SS lines, BHP Pads F1 paddles, GSP brake pedal, Huber Optik 20%, Iforged rims and a bunch of other things.. Sold

1970 911T Tangerine
1972 911T Albert Blue
1970 911E Ossi Blue
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Old Sat, Apr-25-2009, 06:17:21 AM   #20
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Nice write-up Fastdog!

I'll just let everyone know that if you need to remove the hose from the SMG reservoir to the accumulator for any reason, be very careful of the red plastic snap ring that's used to hold the hose in the accumulator. You can see the red snap ring in post #8 in the second picture where the hose attaches to the accumulator.

The reservoir hose broke during my supercharger install and when I went to pull the old hose out the snap ring disintegrated. No problem I thought since I needed to buy a new hose. Well, I was wrong. BMW doesn't include a snap ring with the new hose and it's not an item that is sold separately. It only comes with a new accumulator or a new SMG hydraulic assembly.

Also, you can use CV boot clamps for the six hoses that attach from IM to the throttle bodies if you don't live close to a dealer. You can usually pick them up from any auto parts store.
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Discussing DYI on removing Intake Manifold on SMG in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)