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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sat, Dec-04-2010, 09:56:06 PM   #11
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Nice DIY! My Master tech tells me that you have to torque the bolts first to spec and then use a 90 degree torque angle as well.
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Old Sat, Dec-04-2010, 10:21:41 PM   #12
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Nice DIY! My Master tech tells me that you have to torque the bolts first to spec and then use a 90 degree torque angle as well.
Good info! Anyone else heard this and I will add it to the DIY
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Old Fri, Dec-10-2010, 07:25:33 PM   #13
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Thanks for the DIY. I bought the updated bolts a while ago, never had a chance to change them.
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Old Fri, Dec-10-2010, 07:35:59 PM   #14
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Thanks for the post. I didn't realize this helps eliminate the clunk.
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Old Fri, Dec-10-2010, 07:59:47 PM   #15
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Wow, awesome DIY. Definitely going to do this someday for preventative. Simple job! Thanks!
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Old Fri, Dec-10-2010, 08:12:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niacin View Post
Thanks for the DIY. I bought the updated bolts a while ago, never had a chance to change them.
No worries

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Originally Posted by cncmastr View Post
Thanks for the post. I didn't realize this helps eliminate the clunk.
I wouldn't say "eliminates" it, but it will make the car quieter (at least in my case it did). The clunk is still there sadly.

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Wow, awesome DIY. Definitely going to do this someday for preventative. Simple job! Thanks!
Thanks! It really is easy. like I said, 15 min job or so.
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Old Sat, Dec-11-2010, 04:13:27 PM   #17
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nice write up! I also bought these bolts but haven't done this yet.
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Old Sat, Dec-11-2010, 04:32:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
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It really is easy. like I said, 15 min job or so.
This assumes you have the stock swaybar. With a fatter bar there is a good chance you won't get a socket in there. Another option, besides dropping the bar, is to use the closed end of a 12 point box wrench with a pipe extension. I believe it's an 11mm or 12mm. Tedious though and you have to guess at the torque.
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Old Sat, Dec-11-2010, 08:38:31 PM   #19
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This assumes you have the stock swaybar. With a fatter bar there is a good chance you won't get a socket in there. Another option, besides dropping the bar, is to use the closed end of a 12 point box wrench with a pipe extension. I believe it's an 11mm or 12mm. Tedious though and you have to guess at the torque.
That I do. You are correct. Even with the stock one, it was SUPER tight.
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Old Sat, Dec-11-2010, 09:14:42 PM   #20
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Just curious how many have these bolts broken under normal driving condition? I assume that it would take quite a bit of stress/pressure to break them.

Any idea how much stronger the replacement bolts are?
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Discussing Differential Bolts replacement DIY: updated bolts in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)