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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Jan-19-2010, 05:46:05 AM   #11
sddynamix
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And unless there's something wrong, your clutch disk should last you a while. I drive my car daily, rather spiritedly, and my clutch disc still had a lot of life left at 96k miles. Photos in that thread I referenced earlier.

Did they replace your pressure plate when you had your last clutch job?

And while you're in there, again at a minimum, replace the pressure plate, throwout bearing, pivot pin + spring, and clutch fork along w/that clutch disc!
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Old Thu, Jun-25-2015, 09:33:14 PM   #12
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Default Re: DIY SMG Clutch replacement needed

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Originally Posted by sddynamix View Post
I just did mine about 3 weeks ago. http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=301223

It's good that you have access to a lift, I did mine on jackstands and it was a pain.

You're going to need a few specialty tools, notably some female torx sockets, a 32mm wrench for that fan clutch, and something to punch out the god-forsaken dowel pin that holds the shift actuator on. Along with several feet of socket extensions and u-joints.

Nothing too special about the SMG vs Manual, except you have hydraulic lines you have to be careful with, and you do need to retrain the clutch using software (I used AutoEnginuity).

Oh, and no one told me this, and I found out the hard way, but make sure your transmission is in neutral BEFORE you disconnect everything.

What I did in order (on a very high level):

- Remove Intake Manifold
- Remove Fan/Clutch
- Remove Thrustplate/Paneling underneath car
- Drop Exhaust from the headers back
- Drop heat shields
- Pop hydraulic lines off the support brackets
- Remove slave cylinder
- Undo transmission cross brace (it won't fall yet at this point, but it would be a good idea to get some support under there).
- Spend hours trying to find the right tool to disconnect that damn shift actuator (assuming you didn't waste several hours trying to manually put the car into neutral).
- Support front of engine
- Unbolt transmission casing from the motor (make sure your transmission is fully supported as you don't want to bend the input shaft by hanging the weight of your gearbox off of it)

Couple things you should know off the top of my head:

- The TIS mandates that you replace the bolts that secure the pressure plate, as well as the flywheel bolts. Make sure you order these at a minimum (new exhaust gaskets are highly recommended as well). You will need hex sockets to properly torque the pressure plate bolts (as well as make life easy while removing them).

- You will need a 12mm allen (hex) key/socket to undo the locking plate that the new pressure plate comes with.

- In order to align the clutch with the plastic tool from Turner (with the giant ring for a handle) you need to remove the locking plate from the pressure plate. This can't be done w/o the pressure plate first being installed (or you're up the creek without a paddle). Unlike the Pelican DIY, you will have to first bolt the pressure plate onto the flywheel, and then release the locking plate. Now slowly undo all 6 bolts of the pressure plate to loosen the clutch disc enough so you may insert the alignment tool to align it.

- PB Blaster is your friend.

- Unless you're freakishly strong, you'll want some sort of flywheel holding tool.

- Reinserting that dowel pin on the shift actuator is just as big of a PITA as it was removing it. Make sure you have a proper tool for this. The BMW Tool stated in the TIS is 23 0 240. I very much wished I had one.

- I used a combination of the Bentley Manual, the Pelican Parts DIY for the E36, TIS documents, and a TON of knowledge from a fellow forum member (PeteyyPab). Each one of these resources was indispensible during the process.

- There are a lot of parts you're taking out, and likewise, a lot of screws. I bagged each set of screws in a ziploc bag and labeled where they came from. It helped speed up the the reassembly process tremendously.

- Buy some extra Pentosin CHF-11S (SMG Hydraulic Fluid). It'll leak out of the reservoir while your manifold is chillin' on the ground.

- DONT disconnect your hydraulic lines, you're simply unclipping them from the support brackets that route them along the side of the transmission. The lines only run to the slave cylinder and shift actuator, both of which get completely unbolted from the transmission casing.

Can this procedure be applied to a 2005 645ci SMG transmission? and will it still require software training or does it teach itself? thanks
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Old Thu, Jun-25-2015, 09:36:16 PM   #13
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Default Re: DIY SMG Clutch replacement needed

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Originally Posted by hdfebreze View Post
Can this procedure be applied to a 2005 645ci SMG transmission? and will it still require software training or does it teach itself? thanks
Not sure about the similarities or differences between the two chassis, but I'm pretty certain you will still need recalibration via software.
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Old Fri, Jun-26-2015, 04:36:08 AM   #14
Zabalzae
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Default Re: DIY SMG Clutch replacement needed

I used to have that problem even after replacing clutch. (Now I have ttfs smg tune) but before the tune I notice that if I had it below s3 it would "feel" like it was slipping. With the tune I haven't felt it even on s2.
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Old Fri, Jun-26-2015, 05:56:35 AM   #15
kokgo20
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Default Re: DIY SMG Clutch replacement needed

What does this BMW tool 23 0 240 look like?
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Discussing DIY SMG Clutch replacement needed in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)