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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Wed, Jan-06-2010, 06:28:49 AM   #21
iggy
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Know what, I might just go ahead and order them anyways. I'd rather order it all to be sure I'll have everything I need for the job instead of cheaping out and trying to save a few bucks and risk not having a replacement for a damaged component.

I've heard that not all parts of the Pelican kit can be accessed with transmission still bolted to the car. Is that true?

If so, which pieces should I leave out?
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Old Wed, Jan-06-2010, 07:47:58 AM   #22
rowar64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iggy View Post
Know what, I might just go ahead and order them anyways. I'd rather order it all to be sure I'll have everything I need for the job instead of cheaping out and trying to save a few bucks and risk not having a replacement for a damaged component.

I've heard that not all parts of the Pelican kit can be accessed with transmission still bolted to the car. Is that true?

If so, which pieces should I leave out?
I would tend to trust Chris and Understeer. If you're unsure give him a call or email, you'll get a very quick response from my experience.

You may not need the second set of spacers due to going with the UUC carrier bushing. I went with TMS Delrin bushing and did use the spacers, iirc.

You absolutely do not need to drop the driveshaft/exhaust to do this. I've done it twice now without doing so. Many others have as well. But as has been well stated, it does make things that much more difficult.

As for not needing those spacers....Not installing the spacers is going to leave your gearbox extremely loose and sloppy. They are definitely required. You can get the general idea from this picture:

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Old Wed, Jan-06-2010, 02:16:14 PM   #23
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I would tend to trust Chris and Understeer. If you're unsure give him a call or email, you'll get a very quick response from my experience.

You may not need the second set of spacers due to going with the UUC carrier bushing. I went with TMS Delrin bushing and did use the spacers, iirc.

You absolutely do not need to drop the driveshaft/exhaust to do this. I've done it twice now without doing so. Many others have as well. But as has been well stated, it does make things that much more difficult.

As for not needing those spacers....Not installing the spacers is going to leave your gearbox extremely loose and sloppy. They are definitely required. You can get the general idea from this picture:
It's not that I don't trust Understeer, I just want to replace as many wear items as I can while I'm in there. The vagueness of my stock shifter is driving me nuts and I want to enjoy the same crisp shifter that I'm sure the OP is enjoying now.

I'll try to contact Chris today and see what he thinks, unless other forum members can shed more light.
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Old Wed, Jan-06-2010, 03:17:17 PM   #24
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Default Yellow Washers on Selector Rod

BMW changed their design at some point to no longer use the yellow washers.
Check realOEM for various build dates and you will see. If you have a selector rod designed for washers then get new washers. If you get a new selector rod that isn't designed for the yellow washers(the two "pins" are shorter) then obviously, you don't need the yellow washers(there isn't room for them).
BMW also changed the style of the gear selector "joint" or "knuckle" at some point. This is only important to know if you decide to switch to the new style joint as it is slightly longer(and therefore requires a corresponding selector rod that is slightly shorter).
If more info desired, see unofficialBMW(ron stygar's site)
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Old Wed, Jan-06-2010, 06:55:24 PM   #25
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my build date is 10/98 and it shows no #9 yellow spacers in realoem.com

However I ordered them just in case since it wasn't much money.
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Old Thu, Jan-07-2010, 06:18:43 PM   #26
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One more project to add to the list, but like all the others it has to wait until I have my own garage again. My shifter is not terrible, but it's not too crisp either.
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Old Wed, Jan-13-2010, 12:18:24 AM   #27
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just finished installing a Z3 lever, DSSR, and new bushings, though i didn't do those pieces actually on the trans (that sponge thing and the part the selector rod attaches to). i'm a little disappointed with the results, i still have some play in the shifter, AND THAT FIFTH GEAR LEAN!!

but the throws are definitely shorter and crisper
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Old Wed, Jan-13-2010, 12:25:23 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SketchyD View Post
just finished installing a Z3 lever, DSSR, and new bushings, though i didn't do those pieces actually on the trans (that sponge thing and the part the selector rod attaches to). i'm a little disappointed with the results, i still have some play in the shifter, AND THAT FIFTH GEAR LEAN!!

but the throws are definitely shorter and crisper
The sponge thing is one of the more important bushings. Make sure your trans is topped off with fluid, and the fifth gear lean and detent bushing kits will really make a difference.
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Old Wed, Jan-13-2010, 01:22:40 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SketchyD View Post
just finished installing a Z3 lever, DSSR, and new bushings, though i didn't do those pieces actually on the trans (that sponge thing and the part the selector rod attaches to). i'm a little disappointed with the results, i still have some play in the shifter, AND THAT FIFTH GEAR LEAN!!

but the throws are definitely shorter and crisper
Well yeah, not replacing those key parts will cause that extra slop... it's cheap to just do them all while you're in there... As far as the 5th gear lean, you have to pull the tranny and do the detent pin fix, no shifter will fix that...
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Old Wed, Jan-13-2010, 02:47:13 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iggy View Post
Know what, I might just go ahead and order them anyways. I'd rather order it all to be sure I'll have everything I need for the job instead of cheaping out and trying to save a few bucks and risk not having a replacement for a damaged component.

I've heard that not all parts of the Pelican kit can be accessed with transmission still bolted to the car. Is that true?

If so, which pieces should I leave out?
No, all parts can be accessed even with the tranny on, just fine, actually. There's one clip, known as the b!tch clip, that's difficult to remove. Just destroy it with a screwdriver. Search b!tch clip to find tips.
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Discussing Shift linkage bushing replacement = great in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)