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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Wed, Sep-13-2017, 05:17:07 AM   #41
NO-M3
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Default Re: Rear Differential input seal replacement

Ok. I think this it it.

Place Lock Washer around Flange Nut; press down by hand to hold in place; use 32mm socket to press/tap Lock Washer to bottom/base of Flange Nut; make small bend outwards into 180deg flange indents in order to keep Lock Washer from turning.

Last edited by NO-M3; Wed, Sep-13-2017 at 06:37:05 PM.
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Old Mon, Feb-26-2018, 12:44:04 AM   #42
ATB88
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Default Re: Rear Differential input seal replacement

Going to tackle this next weekend, thanks OP for the nice writeup.

Any other good "while you're in there" items that are easy to replace when you're doing this? Diff bushings, etc? I just picked up this 2002 with 45k miles on it, and very few of those were driven in the last 10 years, I'm sure there's all sorts of dry/cracked rubber that needs replacing...
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Old Sun, Mar-04-2018, 09:25:06 PM   #43
ATB88
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Default Re: Rear Differential input seal replacement

Just finished doing this. Thanks again for the guide OP!

A few comments:

1. there are two large self-locking nuts you need to undo (which sit under what I assume are the rear subframe bushings) in addition to the four smaller bolts to get the rear suspension/subframe support off. This wasn't mentioned in the original DIY post. These need to be torqued back up to 57 ft lbs (as per Bentley) during reassembly -- seems important.

2. the initial separating the driveshaft from the diff at the cv joint was easy, but getting the driveshaft to actually clear the flange completely was very difficult for me, even after removing the driveshaft center support nuts for extra manoeuverability. Is there a best practice for doing this without risking damage to anything in that joint?

3. I assume the OP cleaned the CV joint grease out for clarity of photos? mine was extremely goopy. Would have been good to know ahead of time so I could have some extra goop handy. It would have been nice to be able to clean mine off before proceeding so that I could mark things more clearly in there for later realignment, but I didn't have any CV joint grease on me and couldn't drive anywhere :P

4. I marked the big 32mm bolt's position so I could tighten it back up to exactly where it was, but it seemed that torquing it back to where it was is *WAY* more difficult than initially breaking/loosening it, which really sketched me out that I was tightening it too much. It really took every ounce of strength in my body to tighten it back -- it would have been physically impossible for me to overtighten it if this is really how tight it's supposed to be. Is this weird? Any chance that it was on there too tight to begin with before I even got in there? Car seems to be driving fine, but I feel a bit paranoid about this.

5. The driveshaft bolts need a 12mm torx socket head -- I nearly stripped a head trying to get one off with a normal 10mm socket as OP suggested because I wasn't prepared with the right tool (had a 10mm torx socket I thought would work bc op said 10mm -- ended up having to take an uber to home depot to get myself a 12!)

6. If your driveshaft/diff have never been removed before and the 6 torx head bolts holding the driveshaft to the diff flange are original, consider ordering new bolts before you tackle this. They need to be retorqued to 63 ft lbs, which is pretty high, and my old tired bolts snapped as I was trying to put them back in. Luckily since they poke out the other side of the flange a little bit, I was able to use some locking pliers to thread the rest of the bolt through the other side and not have to do a full on extraction with a drill, but it was pretty frustrating nonetheless. This prompted me to run and get 6 new bolts (was very lucky there was one dealership in all of LA that had them in stock) to avoid the risk of this happening with the other 5, and didn't have any trouble with them after that.

7. During reassembly, I was looking through my Bentley manual and noticed that in the driveshaft removal/installation procedure they mention that when you're reattaching the little nuts that hold the driveshaft center support to the body (which you'll probably have removed to get the driveshaft out of the diff input flange) the center support should be slid 4-6mm forwards (towards the front of the car) from its neutral position before bolting it in for "preloading" purposes. So I did this. How important is this? Does it matter if you do this or not? If so, maybe this should go in the DIY

8. Rather than use OP's method of keeping the flange from rotating while undoing the big 32mm using a prybar, I just put the parking brake on. Any harm in doing it this way? Seems much simpler.

Last edited by ATB88; Sun, Mar-04-2018 at 09:29:04 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Discussing Rear Differential input seal replacement in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)