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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Tue, Aug-03-2010, 06:14:04 AM   #31
BleedsBlue
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For $50, it can't be beat either.
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Old Tue, Aug-03-2010, 10:11:01 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by WRXEATR View Post
Maybe this is part of why my clutch grabs right off the floor.


I would doubt the clutch pedal and bushings will do much for a low engaging clutch.

Your master cylinder could be going. Mine used to engage real low. After the master cylinder went (and was subsequently replaced), it engaged much higher.

Alternately, you may just need a clutch fluid bleed...
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Old Tue, Aug-03-2010, 10:56:48 PM   #33
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My clutch also engages VERY close off the floor. I haven't notice any leaks or anything. Oh and I ordered the new clutch pedal from RMEuropean on Sunday night and received it THIS MORNING. Awesome, speedy service! I'll be sure to take before and after pictures of the clutch relative to the other pedals. Mine looks like its pointing towards the driver's door :-/
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Old Thu, Aug-05-2010, 08:47:42 PM   #34
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Default Bushings and steel washers

I replaced my clutch pedal and used the UUC delrin. Pedal is much better. I did not use the steel washers that came with the bushings. Pedal now has a tendancy to "wander" to the left when fully depressed against stop. Anybody else experience this? Should I use the washers. Did not use grease that I remember. Wandering occurs most when hot out.
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Old Thu, Aug-05-2010, 08:55:59 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by JBorden3 View Post
I replaced my clutch pedal and used the UUC delrin. Pedal is much better. I did not use the steel washers that came with the bushings. Pedal now has a tendancy to "wander" to the left when fully depressed against stop. Anybody else experience this? Should I use the washers. Did not use grease that I remember. Wandering occurs most when hot out.
that's the worn out clutch pedal. replace it for $30.
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Old Fri, Aug-06-2010, 02:04:41 PM   #36
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Erm, I think he says he did that?
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Old Fri, Aug-06-2010, 02:19:14 PM   #37
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Here are the things that break:

1) Bushing themselves (get the UUC ones - I have my used ones and they are as good as new if you want those). My old originals meanwhile were all sandy (They naturally have gaps).

2) The long bolt (I think connecting to #4 and #5) and short bolt are only slightly different sizes. One fits the other, but not vice-versa. Then when I tried to swap back, I cracked one in half. Had to ride my bicycle to Lowe's. I'd go with new bolts.

3) My clutch arm itself broke so it's good you got a new one.

4) If you have metal pedals installed (highly recommended after 5 years now), it's a lot easier to put them on with the clutch arm out.

5) The clutch arm sensor and cruise control sensors will try and not go back together again so note their position in advance. I'm dealing with that now.

6) Take a photo of the area before you take it apart because it literally "grenades" out once the springs are removed.

7) It's a lot easier to remove your seat - you'll still be on your back under there for hours of profanity-laced struggling trying to reinstall the spring-loaded parts.

8) Add packing grease to the new bushings or it will squeal even worse.
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Old Fri, Aug-06-2010, 02:22:24 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Synenergy52 View Post
My clutch also engages VERY close off the floor. -/
For me, that was the flywheel going. After master cylinder job, new clutch arm, and UUC bushings, it was still close to the floor.

My first clutch lasted 6 years, second lasted 4 years, third (from 2007, when they said I could keep the original flywheel) was always close to the ground and lasted only 3 years. Now, with a new (used, stock) flywheel I can unscrew the UUC clutch stop a good deal and it still engages.
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Old Fri, Aug-06-2010, 02:26:54 PM   #39
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You go through clutches a lot.
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Old Fri, Aug-06-2010, 03:28:16 PM   #40
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Now, with a new (used, stock) flywheel I can unscrew the UUC clutch stop a good deal and it still engages.
you put a used stock flywheel in?

how many miles on it, if you dont mind me asking? Did you check the dual mass mechanism inside the flywheel to make sure that was ok.

Usually the stock flywheel has some material left and "can" be used, but shouldnt be as the dual mass mechanism in the center of the flywheel has way too much play
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Discussing Clutch pedal and bushing replacement in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)