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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, Mar-18-2010, 04:46:45 AM   #21
jetmech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbiernacki View Post
Thanks for the shop info... I've got a 20 mile commute roughly.

Live in Schiller Park and drive to Hoffman Estates for work on 90.
2005 Silver M3

I'll see you on the road!
I'm going to have my valve adjustment and alignment done at VS (they quoted me 3 hours for the valve adjustment). It's a shop full of enthusiasts really. They all drive modified M3's or M5's and know their stuff. I visited the place a few weeks ago and spent a couple of hours there just shooting bull about BMW's. They're very approachable.

The Werks Shop is into vintage restorations but they know the E46 and E36 as well. Nice shop, very clean and organized. They have some cool restorations going on there right now so it's fun just to visit and look around.

Rauch is pretty good too. They did some great suspension work on my E36 M3 and do alignments old school style with string and mechanical gauges. You have to know your s**t to do alignments that way, and they know their s**t. My only gripe with them is trying to nail down cost estimates and completion dates. Otherwise, they're knowledgable and approachable. Really nice guys.

Good luck with your M!

Are you going to attend the Windy City BMW club meeting on the 24th? It's at Jacobs BMW in Naperville ay 8:00 PM. I'm going to check into doing my first track event at the meeting and see what it's all about. It's a good opportunity to get to know other local M owners and compare notes too.

Hope to see you there.
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Old Thu, Mar-18-2010, 02:03:02 PM   #22
M302_IMOLA
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I kind of read more about this CDV, and it sounds like that might be my problem. You guys think I would have issues with my extended warranty company if I were to remove the CDV?

It was funny cause, I was always annoyed with how the gears shifted on this car not realizing they had this CDV. Now that I read about it, makes more sense. (for a while I thought I lost my touch driving a manual
Def. get rid of the CDV...it is a night and day difference. If you are worried about warranty you can have a modified CPV put in that looks like OEM but doesn't have the restrictions. I believe Zeckhausen (sp?) sales them.
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Old Wed, Nov-03-2010, 11:21:52 PM   #23
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Not to bring back an old thread unnecessarily, but was the problem (if truly not the clutch) ever figured out? I have the same problem, but without the DSC going on. When I give it fuel much more than slowly the RPMs rise but the car won't accelerate. I was told it was my clutch but someone here said that it shouldn't be at 69k miles. To me it does feel like the clutch is slipping but then there are times under quicker acceleration it seems to grab just fine. Any thoughts?
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Old Wed, Nov-03-2010, 11:28:17 PM   #24
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Turn off the DSC and slam some shifts. The rear end should break loose, if not it will rev with no acceleration = clutch.
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Old Wed, Nov-03-2010, 11:36:41 PM   #25
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Just get your car rolling, put it in 6th and if it slowly acclerates, your clutch is good. If the RPM's keep going up with no movement new clutch. Around $1.5k at the dealer.
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Old Thu, Nov-04-2010, 12:22:40 AM   #26
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Just get your car rolling, put it in 6th and if it slowly acclerates, your clutch is good. If the RPM's keep going up with no movement new clutch. Around $1.5k at the dealer.
+1

If the clutch is bad:
Just replaced my clutch and flywheel at a indy shop and it costed me 500 dollars. Also the flywheel is dual mass so shops won't even try to resurface it so best for you to buy the new clutch with flywheel as a package and also they throw the throw out bearing with it too.
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Old Thu, Nov-04-2010, 03:17:28 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mbiernacki View Post
Hello,

I am a new 05 M3 owner (4 months) and it seems I might have bought an abused M3. Just hit 60K miles and it seems like I feel the clutch slipping already.

I am suspecting it is the clutch but maybe somene else has another opinion.
It seems to catch pretty high up on the clutch pedal when I release. Also when I change from first to second at high RPMs I see the RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate. (I see the triangle signal flashing on the dashboard)

Has anyone replaced their clutch recently at a dealer and know what the approximate cost is? (Not an SMG)

Thanks.
The triangle symbol is the DSC warning that the rear wheels are spinning, and it is cutting power and putting the brake on the spinning wheels to keep the car under control.

This means you need new tires - not a new clutch. And likely your shifting is a tad harsh.
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Old Thu, Nov-04-2010, 08:38:43 PM   #28
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After reading some of the posts by very senior and experienced people here it seems as though the dual mass flywheel CAN be reconditioned by an experienced machinist who knows what they are doing. I got a quote from my indy shop for the new clutch kit installed and the original flywheel reconditioned for $1k. Sounds like a good deal to me.

Mine is starting to slip quite a bit and does so without the DSC light going on.
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Old Sat, Jan-28-2012, 11:55:26 PM   #29
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Default Re: Clutch replacement cost?

I just got back from the dealer ship a couple hours ago and I figured I'd
share what I found out about the clutch as well as ask a few questions.

First, I live in Richmond, VA and I've gone to the dealer on W. Broad street
already once to have an alignment done, rear and oil, oil change, and bushings.

The service advisor and the mechnanic seem to be pretty solid, and I have
great faith in the mechanic. He knows his **** and I have extensively quizzed
him and never seen him falter in his knowledge. Do any of you have any
recommendations for a shop in Richmond, VA? How do you think the prices
compare for hourly labor? All of the quotes I got today were at $125/hr which
is a bit steep I think. The last time I was here the price was $90/hr but
apparently the raised it back up.


I had three things quoted while at the dealer:

Valve Adjustment: 4.5 hours labor, $100 in parts + Tax = $600

Clutch: Clutch Kit = $560, Bolts, Fork, Bearings, Etc = $50, 8 hours labor
Total Quoted Price = $1,635

I've been smelling the clutch after hard driving for the last couple of months.
The car has SMG and 100,000 miles on the clock, so this is about when I'd expect it to go.

Sunroof: 3 hours to take it apart, clean it out, and try to fix it without the repair kit
If it can't be fixed without the repair kit, repair kit = $450 + unspecified extra labor

I was told that the full Sunroof Casette was crazy expensive and it would be better to just get
an aftermarket unit to replace it, or to find a salvaged unit from another car. The other day the
sunroof got stuck on the sunshade and started skipping gears, then getting it all out of alignment.
I am hoping that it just needs to be greased up, lined and timed back up, and clips put on the
sunscreen. Any thoughts?
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Old Sun, Jan-29-2012, 01:39:23 AM   #30
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Default Re: Clutch replacement cost?

A worn clutch is possible, mine was starting to slip at 44k when really getting on it, I thought it was lack of skill due to the previous owner and he fried it. However, when I replaced it soon after I found that the clutch disk looked like new, but the pressure plate had some hot spots, it seems that the pressure plate was worn not the clutch.
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Discussing Clutch replacement cost? in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)