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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, May-15-2009, 08:17:37 PM   #11
badgtho
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Originally Posted by bmwm3matt View Post
the radiators were that cheap. If I have any issues, I'll definitely buy one. Thanks for the advise.
that is so far beyond ghetto.

totally hack.

totally stupid.

totally pointless when a new rad is so cheap.
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At any rate, our MDX is running 5w20 and it can tow 3500 pounds.
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Old Fri, May-15-2009, 09:22:40 PM   #12
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I can see if you're stuck in BFE with out a replacement. Otherwise . . . . flame-on-you!

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Old Fri, May-15-2009, 10:59:47 PM   #13
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Props for trying, but no. That huge PVC pipe, and it is huge, comparatively, will eventually destroy a whole lot more. The pipe is so much more rigid and has such greater mass - think of it vibrating and shaking as you go over bumps and such, the pressure it will exert on remaining plastic it's attached to will be 50x greater than vs the rubber hose with a proper fastener. And when a PVC pipe breaks off and falls into your engine bay, then some sh!ts going to get jacked up.
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Old Sat, May-16-2009, 12:00:10 AM   #14
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I did this on my 2nd car back in the day and it worked for a while....till it got totalled when I was rear ended. I don't think I would risk an s52 though.
Ya but you can say that about any radiator not just a doctored up one..
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Old Sat, May-16-2009, 02:28:04 AM   #15
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wow

make sure to update us when it fails
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Old Sat, May-16-2009, 01:58:26 PM   #16
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Think of it this way. If the radiator does fail now, you have moved the weak point from the neck to someplace else. Maybe the end tanks, maybe the overflow tank. If it let's go in spactacular fashion, you run a real risk of dumping coolant under your rear wheels while driving. If you need to brake or hold a corner at this point, you're probably looking at buying a new car or worse, hurting yourself or others.

Think long term. $165 is inexpensive when you consider the cost of body damage and/or hospitol bills. If $165 is too much for a 14 year old car, sell it and buy something you feel is worth maintaining.
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Old Mon, May-18-2009, 01:04:43 PM   #17
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I'm waiting for small chunks of epoxy to dislodge and start collecting somewhere in the head, like plaque on an artery. Pretty soon, your head has a stroke...


Seriously, if the radiator failed, how far behind do you think the water pump, thermostat, and thermostat housing are?

There is a reason all those items are 80-100K mile preventive REPLACEMENT ITEMS...
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Old Thu, Jun-19-2014, 04:02:24 AM   #18
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Default Re: Fix for broken radiator neck

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Originally Posted by bmwm3matt View Post
I've done a lot of searching on this site, and it seems to be the general consensus that if you have the common "broken radiator neck" problem with your E36, the only solution is to buy a new radiator.

Some have claimed to use epoxy as a temporary repair, but I've come up with a permanent repair that has worked for me.

Epoxy is part of the equation, but using only epoxy to "rebuild" the broken neck doesn't work as a permanent solution. You need something under it for support.

I used a 2" long PVC pipe connector with a 3/4" internal diameter. It fits almost perfectly into the neck. You will need to grind down the outside of it slightly, to make it fit, and grind a slot into the outside, lengthwise, to accept the protruding channel in the bottom of the neck. Use some PVC pipe glue, and tap it into place with a mallet, leaving about an inch showing.

After the glue sets up, use some epoxy to seal around the area where the broken neck and PVC come together. Wait for the epoxy to cure, then re-attach the hoses using 2 hose clamps. One around the broken neck, and one around the protruding PVC.

This has worked perfectly for me, with no leaks at all, for over 6 months of everyday driving in my 95' M3.

Good luck!
Hello bmwm3matt.
I know i am reviving a VERY old thread, and i usually only Voyer the forums for what i need, but i had to register only to say thank you.

I live in Brazil and i daily drive an 1998 323i M-Tech with the original rad, and around 120k Miles on the clock.

Parts around here are hard to find and i usually have to import, pay the dolar conversion which is worth 2.5 times my country coin, plus 60% custom tax AND the shipping.

This old thread have saved me 900 bucs on a cheap quality radiator, now i can import, wait and have my baby running in the mean time, so, big thanks to you man!

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Old Thu, Jun-19-2014, 08:08:04 AM   #19
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Default Re: Fix for broken radiator neck

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Originally Posted by tiago.luccas View Post
Hello bmwm3matt.
I know i am reviving a VERY old thread, and i usually only Voyer the forums for what i need, but i had to register only to say thank you.

I live in Brazil and i daily drive an 1998 323i M-Tech with the original rad, and around 120k Miles on the clock.

Parts around here are hard to find and i usually have to import, pay the dolar conversion which is worth 2.5 times my country coin, plus 60% custom tax AND the shipping.

This old thread have saved me 900 bucs on a cheap quality radiator, now i can import, wait and have my baby running in the mean time, so, big thanks to you man!

Glad you can drive your car, but this thread isn't bump worthy.
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Old Thu, Jun-19-2014, 12:18:06 PM   #20
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Default Re: Fix for broken radiator neck

Holy crap. $900 for a rad? Insane.

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Discussing Fix for broken radiator neck in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)