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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Aug-27-2010, 08:42:00 AM   #31
RynoS54
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^ ok.....Perfect Glue #1 it is.....off to Micheal's this weekend
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Old Fri, Aug-27-2010, 10:37:02 AM   #32
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ive heard that there is no permanent fix to this problem. they all eventually fail. with that in mind i went with the double sided tape as its the least messy and when it fails i can just peel off, wipe with an alcohol swab, and reapply new tape. my first application has gotten me through the summer. (so far)
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Old Fri, Aug-27-2010, 10:51:05 AM   #33
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is this happening on cars mostly parked on the street/in the heat all the time? Or its just one of those things that will eventually happen?

Reason I ask is I've had a 1999 E36, and a 2001 E46 and haven't had the trim peel on either of them. My cars are always garaged unless I'm out and have to park in a public lot or street for a couple hours.
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Old Fri, Aug-27-2010, 02:06:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmermilan View Post
Please everyone....do yourselves a favor and get a new set of felt trim from the dealer....PLEASE! We drive BMW M3's not KIA's!!! lol
Nothing to do with cutting corners like the manufacturer apparently did with this design. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the trim in appearance other than it falls off due to time/heat. What's wrong with fixing something as easy as this with a little glue as oppose to forking over $450 bucks for the same thing to reoccur down the road. It's not alway about the money.
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Old Sat, Aug-28-2010, 05:07:37 PM   #35
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>>Shoe Goo does work! I used it on one section of the trim and it has been >>holding strong for over 2 years.

I *might* have been the first person to mention Shoe Goo (last year). I have now had to rectify the failure (from OEM, not Shoe Goo) almost all the way around both doors, front edge to back edge. No Shoe Goo failures unless you count the occasion where I didn't apply enough of it. I got to the point where I pulled apart the existing adhesive in order to do it and get it done.

Best results for me included:

1. Use 240 grit sandpaper to remove old adhesive, both surfaces, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol to clean surfaces.

2. Apply Shoe Goo, liberally but not excessively, and preferrably a light layer on both surfaces. Use a wooden coffee stirrer to spread the layer out fairly evenly.

3. Use 1", blue painters tape, long enough to go from the the headliner, over the felt trim, and stretch over the exterior, shadowline trim. Place tape at roughly 1"-2" gaps but not more than 2" apart.

I prefer to close the door but leave the window down so as not to stretch the tape further, plus it prevents the fumes from accumulating in the interior.
I find that overnight in the garage (to keep the temperature around 65-75 F) is adequate, and I can remove the tape at that time (but not pull on the felt yet).

Estimate about 15-20 minutes to repair 2'. Most of the time is spent in surface prep, and the surface prep is what will make the repair last.

Good luck!
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Old Sat, Aug-28-2010, 09:18:29 PM   #36
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^ Thanks for the tip
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Old Wed, Dec-01-2010, 06:00:59 PM   #37
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Well, I have to retract my procedure as the Shoe Goo has failed on me. I am pretty sure I followed my own procedure, but the driver's side has come down again. Back to the drawing board for me!

>>Shoe Goo does work! I used it on one section of the trim and it has been >>holding strong for over 2 years.

I *might* have been the first person to mention Shoe Goo (last year). I have now had to rectify the failure (from OEM, not Shoe Goo) almost all the way around both doors, front edge to back edge. No Shoe Goo failures unless you count the occasion where I didn't apply enough of it. I got to the point where I pulled apart the existing adhesive in order to do it and get it done.

Best results for me included:

1. Use 240 grit sandpaper to remove old adhesive, both surfaces, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol to clean surfaces.

2. Apply Shoe Goo, liberally but not excessively, and preferrably a light layer on both surfaces. Use a wooden coffee stirrer to spread the layer out fairly evenly.

3. Use 1", blue painters tape, long enough to go from the the headliner, over the felt trim, and stretch over the exterior, shadowline trim. Place tape at roughly 1"-2" gaps but not more than 2" apart.

I prefer to close the door but leave the window down so as not to stretch the tape further, plus it prevents the fumes from accumulating in the interior.
I find that overnight in the garage (to keep the temperature around 65-75 F) is adequate, and I can remove the tape at that time (but not pull on the felt yet).

Estimate about 15-20 minutes to repair 2'. Most of the time is spent in surface prep, and the surface prep is what will make the repair last.

Good luck!
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Old Wed, Dec-01-2010, 07:15:43 PM   #38
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3M weatherstripping adhesive, aka "gorilla snot" has worked for me in Vegas heat. I never even did any prep work, just smeared it on and used blue painters tape to hold it overnight in the garage.

Probably should have sanded/cleaned it first.

The yellow stuff will show if you put too much on and it oozes out. The black stuff might be better for aesthetics...dunno.
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Discussing Any good methods to fix felt window trim besides glue? in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)