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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 01:15:09 AM   #41
zottyzot
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Uughhh, I cant believe I just tore the solder points off the board...I had the wires soldered on, i was trying to remount the tape deck in the headunit and I fu*king bent the wires to hard! All three came off at once...Will the head unit operate without the tape deck in?
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 02:18:30 AM   #42
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Mount the wires to a point on the board that is connected to those solder points you broke. You're not going to use the tape anyway.
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 11:25:30 AM   #43
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You mean just follow the metallic line on the board to the next solder point? I was thinking of soldering in where the tape deck connects to the rest of the head unit, the computer style multi pin connector you mentioned in the original DIY. I was looking at that connector, looks pretty solid. From what I can tell the first 5 pins on the left are the audio, the center of those five has the fatest lead going to it, so maybe thats ground? Would there be 4 chanels out? fr, fl, rr, rl ?
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 01:51:01 PM   #44
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I wouldn't solder anything to the main board. If you screw that up then you destroy your radio.

Just find a solder point that connects to where you broke it off. Post a picture of the damage. Shouldn't be too hard to fix.

BTW, the tape only has L and R channels. The headunit then takes that and splits each channel to FL, FR, RL, RR.
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 02:16:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zottyzot View Post
I was thinking of soldering to the posts across the bottom of this board. They are the back side of the connector that clips to the main board. Should be a much stronger solder point. The one that broke was a surface mount, not a through mount.
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 03:46:30 PM   #46
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Use a voltmeter to determine which point at the bottom connects to what point at the tape head connection at the top left and you should be fine.
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 05:08:23 PM   #47
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I'll be checking for continuity correct? So I shouldnt need power.
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Old Fri, Dec-05-2008, 07:11:04 PM   #48
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yes. check for continuity.
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Old Tue, Dec-09-2008, 12:56:05 AM   #49
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....Well, I had to take a break from the radio project, but I got back into it last night. First off I went out and bought a 13.8v @ 3 amp DC power supply. I cant get it to power the radio. I connected 12v+ to terminal #'s 5&9 and ground to terminal 15. No dice. I picked three solder points on the bottom row I mentioned earlier and soldered leads to them and connected a 1/8" jack to those leads. I removed the spring and taped the arm thing on the top of the tape deck. I connected the head unit to the car and I get a "tape error" message. Tuner and cd changer operate fine. I even tried using an empty cassette tape to fool the player it kept spitting it back out. So anyhow, I cant even determine if the solder points I chose were the right ones because I cant get the tape deck to activate. Does anyone have any suggestions. I was wondering if I could cut power to the tape motor, that may work, but it may also cause an error....I searched here and googled "c43 aux input" and several variations, I couldnt find sh*t.
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Old Tue, Dec-09-2008, 06:17:16 AM   #50
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Try to remove the tape and put the spring back on the arm. Basicly, don't do the "trick the tape to think there is a cassette in it" thing I did and see if that fixes the error.
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Discussing DIY - Adding auxiliary input to your radio (C33) in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)