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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 07:10:56 PM   #11
M3_JA
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

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Originally Posted by TboneM3 View Post
Springs not orientated properly on perches/hats? Running out of ideas...
lol yeah me too that's why I'm picking your brain. I thought it might have been springs on the first side but I did the second side a day later and made sure they were exactly as stock and still got the noise. So could swapping left/right mounts create this kind of issue. I thought they looked identical but obviously I was wrong so I'm not sure if I put them on the right side...I will have to check.
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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 07:20:15 PM   #12
TboneM3
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

L/R springs are the same. Could be upside down though. You match the egg shape, which is the bottom of the spring, to the egg shaped bottom seat on Konis and stock struts. Sway bar ear facing rear of car.

Truth be told, it shouldn't matter as the weight of the car will, effectively, weld the MacPherson strut assembly together. Nothing should be moving around with hundreds of pounds on it, but maybe the orientation is causing the spring to "jump" or bind in a funny way, I'm not sure.

Hard to tell over the interwebz.
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Evolve-R Alpha N Evolve CSL CF Airbox Eventuri Scoop Supersprint V1 stepped 2.5" SS V1 S pipes 2.5" + 200 cell HFC OE sect 2 SCZA 2.5" sect 3 Besian RE pullies WPC'd OE bearings oil catch can fan/SAP/washer delete CSL battery

GroundControl S/A Koni (Hyperco/Eibach 300/600) + tall RSMs Hotchkis front sway (med) rear strut bar TMS camber & subframe plates Eibach alu rear camber arms RE trans mounts AKG poly subf/diff 95a SDW RTAB weighted ///M knob + ZHP alcantara boot + UUC DSSR + delrin bushing Mason clutch pedal + brass bushing TMS black pedals delrin brake pedal bushing

OE CSL trunk Sportline 8S 18"x8.5/9.5" MPSS 245/275 APEX 75mm Studs Brembo 996 4 pot 36/40 345mm CSL & 28/30 328mm CSL ZHP "712" rack Pioneer/CDT/Eclipse/Kicker

Last edited by TboneM3; Thu, Jul-19-2018 at 07:23:35 PM.
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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 07:21:15 PM   #13
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

I could help you out if you're local. I've pulled apart my suspension multiple times trying to find a knocking sound when I first got my car I could take it off with my eyes closed.
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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 07:31:15 PM   #14
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

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Originally Posted by TboneM3 View Post
L/R springs are the same. Could be upside down though. You match the egg shape, which is the bottom of the spring, to the egg shaped bottom seat on Konis and stock struts. Sway bar ear facing rear of car.

Truth be told, it shouldn't matter as the weight of the car will, effectively, weld the MacPherson strut assembly together. Nothing should be moving around with hundreds of pounds on it, but maybe the orientation is causing the spring to "jump" or bind in a funny way, I'm not sure.

Hard to tell over the interwebz.
Yeah the springs are on the correct side and not upside down but the strut top mount could be on the wrong side. Does it make a difference if I hear the noise with the car on jack stands so the suspension is unloaded?

Looks like I'm going to have to take it apart and try again.
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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 07:31:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

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Originally Posted by M3_Pilot View Post
I could help you out if you're local. I've pulled apart my suspension multiple times trying to find a knocking sound when I first got my car I could take it off with my eyes closed.

Thanks for the offer Pilot that would be awesome but I'm in the Seattle area so not close enough...
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Old Thu, Jul-19-2018, 11:03:19 PM   #16
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

So the bottom of the spring sits on a perch that rotates about an axis with the entire strut. The top of the spring sits on this bearing. It sounds to me that the top is not assembled properly and what you are getting is a rotational force on the spring that gets loaded and lets loose and then gets reloaded again as you keep rotating the steering wheel. Check that it is all seated in the proper grooves when you release the spring compressor. It can line up perfectly when everything is loose but then once the spring compressor is released something goes on crooked and pinches, blocking the spring from rotating with the strut.

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
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All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Old Fri, Jul-20-2018, 03:15:08 PM   #17
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

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Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
So the bottom of the spring sits on a perch that rotates about an axis with the entire strut. The top of the spring sits on this bearing. It sounds to me that the top is not assembled properly and what you are getting is a rotational force on the spring that gets loaded and lets loose and then gets reloaded again as you keep rotating the steering wheel. Check that it is all seated in the proper grooves when you release the spring compressor. It can line up perfectly when everything is loose but then once the spring compressor is released something goes on crooked and pinches, blocking the spring from rotating with the strut.

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Thanks for the detailed explanation. This sounds like what could be happening. I will disassemble them this weekend and double check everything. Does anyone know of a good picture showing how the top is assembled?
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Old Fri, Jul-20-2018, 03:37:45 PM   #18
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

Yes, the official one

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_


Evolve-R Alpha N Evolve CSL CF Airbox Eventuri Scoop Supersprint V1 stepped 2.5" SS V1 S pipes 2.5" + 200 cell HFC OE sect 2 SCZA 2.5" sect 3 Besian RE pullies WPC'd OE bearings oil catch can fan/SAP/washer delete CSL battery

GroundControl S/A Koni (Hyperco/Eibach 300/600) + tall RSMs Hotchkis front sway (med) rear strut bar TMS camber & subframe plates Eibach alu rear camber arms RE trans mounts AKG poly subf/diff 95a SDW RTAB weighted ///M knob + ZHP alcantara boot + UUC DSSR + delrin bushing Mason clutch pedal + brass bushing TMS black pedals delrin brake pedal bushing

OE CSL trunk Sportline 8S 18"x8.5/9.5" MPSS 245/275 APEX 75mm Studs Brembo 996 4 pot 36/40 345mm CSL & 28/30 328mm CSL ZHP "712" rack Pioneer/CDT/Eclipse/Kicker
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2018, 05:47:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

OK so I found the problem is not the springs but has to do with the strut mount sticking a little when turned. When starting to turn it, it requires a little extra pressure that causes the thump or pop sound. So I took it apart and checked every piece to make sure it's installed correctly, cleaned with WD-40 and applied some chain lube to parts of the mount to help with movement but still it makes that noise. Also, when it's not tightened down it doesn't make the noise, but when it's tight it gets worse and on the car even sticker. Has anyone run into this? All parts are new except the springs so I can't figure out what the problem is.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2018, 09:01:35 PM   #20
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Default Re: Noise after strut rebuild

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Originally Posted by M3_JA View Post
OK so I found the problem is not the springs but has to do with the strut mount sticking a little when turned. When starting to turn it, it requires a little extra pressure that causes the thump or pop sound. So I took it apart and checked every piece to make sure it's installed correctly, cleaned with WD-40 and applied some chain lube to parts of the mount to help with movement but still it makes that noise. Also, when it's not tightened down it doesn't make the noise, but when it's tight it gets worse and on the car even sticker. Has anyone run into this? All parts are new except the springs so I can't figure out what the problem is.
If you assemble the strut without the spring, does the bearing and top mount make the noise when turning by hand? It should spin freely.

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__________________
'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Discussing Noise after strut rebuild in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)