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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sun, Jan-25-2009, 04:26:52 AM   #21
silverstare46
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Finally, I fixed the both sides of actuators for my e46 2000 323ci. I just followed the thread by FCars4ever. That was really helpful and I would like to add a few things.
1. you do not need to take out airbag at all 2. You do not need to peel off the entire foam inside door panel. All you have to peel is only from Air bag to door lock side only.
3. To take out actuator, you have to take out bottom nut for the window rail completely and push the male part inside the door and just loosen the top nut but do not remove.
Make sure you window is all the way up. Now you can move the window rail and get more space for actuator to go through.

It took me 3 hours to replace both sides. Pretty easy!

For door lock problem, sometimes all you need to change is GM5. But you do not need to change whole thimg. Most of the time Just realy for door lock is not good. Scott can change relays for $85 ( entire box costs you about $350). If it doesn't fix your problem, then replace actuators.

I bought the parts from BMW Partz Direct. Their price is great and the system is fine since you can enter your vin # so they can make sure you are getting the right parts for your car exactly. However, one of the parts I ordered was in an opened box. It could be used parts or someone's return and took 10 days to get them. So I will never buy parts from them.

Good luck!
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Old Sun, Jan-25-2009, 05:08:50 PM   #22
jblack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverstare46 View Post
For door lock problem, sometimes all you need to change is GM5. But you do not need to change whole thimg. Most of the time Just realy for door lock is not good. Scott can change relays for $85 ( entire box costs you about $350). If it doesn't fix your problem, then replace actuators.
Don't know who Scott is that you reference, this is probably the same place for the same price http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM5_Repair_Service.htm - I have both actuators going bad - but I am pretty sure it is the actuators and not the GM. If you have trouble with both actuators and the windows, it is probably the GM. If your actuators go up, but look "tired" doing it, or 1 just quits completely and the other is fine, it is probably the actuator.

This guy replaced the relays in the GM with better than OE parts - I have no experience with or relationship with the guy- just passing on the resource. Sounds like a good gamble to fix a $350 part for $85 with better parts.

By the way, that "GM5" is a General Module 5 or Basic Module 5 Uncoded from real OEM. It has been superseded a bunch of times, but the current one is 61-35-9-161-931, and is $290.20 from the place I get my parts.

Last edited by jblack; Sun, Jan-25-2009 at 05:12:28 PM.
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Old Sun, Jan-25-2009, 08:53:28 PM   #23
silverstare46
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Originally Posted by jblack View Post
Don't know who Scott is that you reference, this is probably the same place for the same price http://www.bmwgm5.com/GM5_Repair_Service.htm - I have both actuators going bad - but I am pretty sure it is the actuators and not the GM. If you have trouble with both actuators and the windows, it is probably the GM. If your actuators go up, but look "tired" doing it, or 1 just quits completely and the other is fine, it is probably the actuator.

This guy replaced the relays in the GM with better than OE parts - I have no experience with or relationship with the guy- just passing on the resource. Sounds like a good gamble to fix a $350 part for $85 with better parts.

By the way, that "GM5" is a General Module 5 or Basic Module 5 Uncoded from real OEM. It has been superseded a bunch of times, but the current one is 61-35-9-161-931, and is $290.20 from the place I get my parts.
Hi. Thank you very much for your info. You could be right. But in my case, my windows work fine but my driver side lock latch did not go up when I used my remote. I could lock the door but not open even I heard the actuator making sounds. One month later, the same thing happened to my passenger side.So at this point , the only way I could open the doors is just to use manual lock like an old car .Yes, Scott is the guy from your link. He is very fast and good. There are separate relays for windows in GM5. and my case, the powered windows work fine. Door lock actuators and central locking system were not wroking. As I read the many different articles. 80% of time, just changing the relays of GM5 fixed the door lock problem. Also when I took my car to the stealer, they asked me to replace acuators and GM which will cost me over $2500. NO way! That is the reason why first I asked Scott to fix my relays for door locksbut did not solve the issue , so fixed the actuators

I spent $215 for both actuators and $85 to replace the relays for door lock in GM5. And now everything is working fine.

Prior to this problem, I replaced the A/c blower resistor( final stage) and my next one is to replace FM radio amp since I counld not chatch any station.
It is amazing to see everything falling a part about the same time.
Good luck!
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Old Fri, Feb-06-2009, 02:29:03 PM   #24
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Quick question, does the GM5 module come pre-programmed or do I need to take it to the dealer to get it flashed/programmed?
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Old Fri, Feb-06-2009, 05:12:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverstare46 View Post
Hi. Thank you very much for your info. You could be right. But in my case, my windows work fine but my driver side lock latch did not go up when I used my remote. I could lock the door but not open even I heard the actuator making sounds. One month later, the same thing happened to my passenger side.So at this point , the only way I could open the doors is just to use manual lock like an old car .Yes, Scott is the guy from your link. He is very fast and good. There are separate relays for windows in GM5. and my case, the powered windows work fine. Door lock actuators and central locking system were not wroking. As I read the many different articles. 80% of time, just changing the relays of GM5 fixed the door lock problem. Also when I took my car to the stealer, they asked me to replace acuators and GM which will cost me over $2500. NO way! That is the reason why first I asked Scott to fix my relays for door locksbut did not solve the issue , so fixed the actuators

I spent $215 for both actuators and $85 to replace the relays for door lock in GM5. And now everything is working fine.

Prior to this problem, I replaced the A/c blower resistor( final stage) and my next one is to replace FM radio amp since I counld not chatch any station.
It is amazing to see everything falling a part about the same time.
Good luck!
I have the exact same problem that you described. I can hear noise from the driver side actuator although it won't open with the remote or central button. Aside from that everything else works fine and will lock with key remote.

WHich did you replace first and what was the result? I think that the actuator is at fault.
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Old Sat, Feb-07-2009, 02:28:53 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d3x74 View Post
does the GM5 module come pre-programmed or do I need to take it to the dealer to get it flashed/programmed?
They rebuild YOUR module - so it is already programmed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tilolite View Post
Which did you replace first and what was the result? I think that the actuator is at fault.
I think you're right too. Sounds like the actuator. If it wasn't trying - I would think your GM5 may be the culprit.
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Old Sun, Feb-08-2009, 03:17:25 AM   #27
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Default Door lock problem

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Originally Posted by tilolite View Post
I have the exact same problem that you described. I can hear noise from the driver side actuator although it won't open with the remote or central button. Aside from that everything else works fine and will lock with key remote.

WHich did you replace first and what was the result? I think that the actuator is at fault.
Hello. Since you can hear the sounds from the actuator when you use your remote, mostlikely GM is working normally and the actuator has a problem. (If module has a problem, actuator will not even make any sounds at all.) If does not solve, then GM5.

For that fact, I did it in wrong way.( I fixed module first and ten actuator)

Good luck!
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Old Wed, Nov-18-2009, 01:41:35 PM   #28
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Just updating an old thread as I tackled my driver side door last night.

This DIY is very easy but a pain only regarding removing the actual actuator from the door. I had to manipulate the window rail alot in order to remove the actuator. Putting in the new one took 10 seconds though.

I would like to address the step regarding removing the bolt disconnecting the window from the regulator. It states to use a 5mm socket. The star shaped bolt holding the window to the regulator actually requires an E8 socket and not a 5mm. I attempted to loosen the bolt with the 5mm and almost stripped the bolt.

This socket can be obtained at your local auto parts store.
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Old Sat, Mar-27-2010, 05:09:11 PM   #29
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i used a 7/32 socket i believe instead of the 5mm socket.

the 5mm socket didn't even go over the nut for me.

also, loosen the top window rail bolt and completely remove the bottom rail bolt.
the bottom rail can be pushed into the door and then moved away from the door actuator to give yourself more room to pull the acuator out.

also, i got a little stuck after i pulled the door panel off and i was removing the speaker connection and another electrical connection. i couldn't figure out how to remove the white door handle connection. i didn't want to break it but if you just tug on it, it pops right off.

the dealer wanted $130 for the part and $500 for labor.

i purchased the part used off ebay for $20 and was planning on getting the part from the dealer if the used part did not work. i lucked out and it worked fine. took me about two hours to do, going very slowly but if i had to do this again i could do it in 30 minutes no problem.

best,

cl
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Old Sat, Mar-27-2010, 08:04:07 PM   #30
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Thanks for the inspiration. My actuator went bad, attepmted to replace it before winter... Got the door panel off looked at the job and said... Eh... Another time! Lol

I'm gonna tackle this tomorrow!
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Discussing Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)