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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Sep-04-2009, 11:57:40 PM   #1
madmaverick
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Default Here's a Fuel Pump DIY for ya

My M3’s fuel pump went out on my way to work a couple days ago, I had a suspicion it was on its last leg because it had been buzzing louder than normal the past week. I couldn’t find a DIY on the forum and wasn’t sure how involved replacing it was. (I did one a while back on my 92 mustang and had to drop the tank, no fun) Since I was already 180 bucks in the hole from the tow I decided to borrow a repair manual and tackle it myself so here is my DIY for those of you interested. This is not hard at all, dont even need to get under the car and no way would I pay someone else to do this!

First off I wouldn’t jump right out and buy a new pump unless you are certain that it is the problem. The fuel system has fuses and relays that can fail and cause the pump not to run. Start by checking the fuses and accessing the fuel pump wiring harness to check for power.


Anyway here you go….


Slide both the driver and passenger seats all the way forward to give yourself as much room in the back seat as possible. (Luckily for me I have a vert so I dropped the top).

If your car has a ski pass remove the ski pass panel first and unhook the leather cover from the metal bar that goes across the ski pass opening. V



Remove the rear seat lower cushion by lifting the front edge up, once it is unlatched pull torward the front of the car and set it aside.



on the passenger side you will now see a round rubber grommet with wires running to it, under here is the fuel pump access cover.



Pull forward the carpeting than pull back the rubber insulation to expose the access panel. (may need to slightly tear the insulation to get it started)




Loosen the four nuts on the access panel and remove the panel.




Now TEST the pump

Before going any further I would confirm that there is power to the pump and it isn’t running.

While sitting as close to the fuel pump as you can have someone turn the key to run, if the pump is working you will hear it hum for a few seconds and of course if its not working you shouldn’t hear anything besides some solenoids click and maybe the hydraulics prime up if you have a convertible.

Remove the wire harness by sliding the retaining clip toward the passenger side and pull up.



To test for power at the pump I used a digital volt meter and contacted the red and brown wires on the harness.



Turn the key to run and for a few seconds you should get a reading of 12.6v (my battery was weak from having the hazards on while I was broke down so I only got 12.29v) if you have another person to help they can turn the key forward as to start the car and this will keep a constant voltage running to the fuel pump, otherwise it will only get a few second prime from the run position (hope that made since). If you are not getting 12 volts to the pump you may want to look into the fuel pump relay or fuse for the problem. If you did get a 12v reading and when the pump was plugged in you couldn’t hear it run, it would be safe to say your fuel pump is shot.




Fuel pump removal.
Unhook the negative batter cable.
Unhook the fuel line from the pump by squeezing the two clips and pull.



Now remove the retaining ring with either the special BMW tool or do what I did and use a hammer and screw driver. Place the screw driver tip on one of the notches of the ring and tap with a hammer, after a few hits move to the opposite side to prevent the ring from binding. After about a quarter turn it should get lose and easier to turn.



At this point put down some towels around the pump and grab a bucket to place the old pump into.




To remove the pump start by lifting strait up, there is a plastic hose you may need to manipulate a little to get past the tank. You will need to twist the pump 90 degrees and tilt it a little to keep the fuel gauge float arm from getting hung up inside the tank.




I recommend replacing the entire unit, fuel pump and gauge float. Its easier for one (don’t have to swap pump from old assembly) and why not since your already in there. I bought the complete assembly from tischer for $225.


To install, First put the new rubber gasket around the new pump assembly but don’t seat it around the top, fish the assembly half way into the tank. NOW seat the rubber gasket onto the gas tank and not the assembly. (makes life easier and less chance of pushing it into the tank)




Push the pump assembly down keeping the hose hookup in the same position as the old unit and line up the tabs at the rear.





Now hook up the fuel line and wire harness. Place the retaining ring back on and tighten it with the same method as removal and hook back up your battery.

Now Test.

Turn car to run, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds, I would cycle this a few times to be sure the pressure is built back up, now go ahead and fire it up. Hopefully all is good, bolt back down the access cover, fold down the rubber insulation, install seat cushions and done!

Hope this helps, it was super easy and hardly seems worth doing this DIY as it took longer to do than the fuel pump swap.

Peace
-Marty

Last edited by Obioban; Thu, Jul-20-2017 at 11:20:19 AM. Reason: Fixed pictures
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 12:12:40 AM   #2
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awesome write up! subscribed!

what mileage did you have on your car when you changed out your fuel pump? first fuel pump change?

im at 91k and havent changed out the original fuel pump but i think its about time to take care of that.

when you bought the fuel pump from Tischer did it come with everything you need to change out the fuel pump?
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 12:24:06 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playskool1 View Post
awesome write up! subscribed!

what mileage did you have on your car when you changed out your fuel pump? first fuel pump change?

im at 91k and havent changed out the original fuel pump but i think its about time to take care of that.

when you bought the fuel pump from Tischer did it come with everything you need to change out the fuel pump?
My cars a 2003 with 75,000 miles. This is its first fuel pump replacement. I can definitely hear the difference between the old pump and the new one. New one is quieter and smoother, the old one had been "buzzing" (for lack of a better word) pretty loud and I kew it was only a matter of time before it went. The noise was the only symptom, it was running fine and just suddenly shut down while driving on the highway.

GET IT FROM TISCHER!! I priced out a pump from another dealership and they wanted $330.00 just for the pump. Jason at Tischer got me the entire assembly for $225.00

May not be a bad idea for preventative maintenance with that mileage, at least you'll have peace of mind that the fuel pump wont leave you stranded somewhere.

EDIT: And yep for $225 it came with everything needed for the install here is the link

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 01:20:00 AM   #4
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Awesome! Thanks man! Bookmarked.
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 02:17:52 AM   #5
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Thank you for the write up. For close up pictures the macro setting on your digital camera might help them be a bit clearer. It's the setting with the picture of the flower more than likely. Thanks again.
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 02:28:56 AM   #6
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Thats very cool write up. Thanks!!
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 03:37:42 AM   #7
playskool1
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thanks! just ordered my fuel pump today!
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 03:38:11 AM   #8
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Good job. Adding this to my list of DIYs.
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 03:40:46 AM   #9
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Thank you for this great DIY. It's members like you that help make this forum a priceless asset for all of our M3 enthusiasts!!

Kudos!

I'll look into adding this thread to the appropriate stickie...
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Old Sat, Sep-05-2009, 03:44:54 AM   #10
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Stickied! But please continue to post in this thread, not the stickied one...

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=283606
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Discussing CMP Auto Engineering subframe kit in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)