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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 03:50:54 AM   #1
fiveightandten
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Default ASC Delete options?

I want to get rid of this. I'm sick of turning it off every time I start the car up, having to remember to shut it off before autoX runs, having it intervene when i'm trying to be a mad tyte Tokyo drift king, etc. I can't impress my girlfriend by doing brake stands when my ASC is slowin' my roll.

My criteria:
-I want ABS left intact
-I want the ABS system to remain 100% reliable
-I want the mod to be reversible.

I did a LOT of reading on BFC about this, and i'm not sure if what I want is even possible. Let me explain that. I'm aware that many people have achieved this with method 2 listed below. However, i've read a handful of posts in threads over there where people have had issues with the ABS system acting up...sometimes a year or longer after doing this. They reverse the mod, the system goes back to normal. They leave the mod, they loose ABS again under certain circumstances (either intermittently, or altogether). I've read enough to convince me that their issues are a consequence of the mod, and not a coincidence.

I'm not sold on the resistor mod being foolproof. After all, the computer gets input from the wheel sensors and actuates actions based on that. It does this under the assumption that the actions will be carried out. What does it do when those actions are either not carried out and it gets no feedback of that...or when it's given false feedback? I don't know.

Here are the methods i'm aware of that i'm not sold on:

Method 1:
Remove ASC throttle plate, leave throttle body in place.

Method 2:
Remove ASC throttle body completely.
Remove ASC throttle body actuator and replace with 10 ohm resistor


Does anyone have any other suggestions that will yield a fully functional ABS system, with no ASC? I don't care about the light. That's a small concern in comparison to people having ABS issues in the long run with attempting to separate ASC and ABS. Also, i'll try and be clear without sounding like a ****...i'm not looking for "I put the resistor in a year ago and my car is fine". I've done all the reading I need to in order to form my opinions of the above methods. I'm looking for other suggestions, or more info on the method below, which I have not been able to find much on:

Method 3:
Remove ASC throttle body
Replace throttle body actuator with 10 ohm resistor
Unplug ASC throttle position sensor


Thanks in advance dudes.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 03:52:56 AM   #2
Jrotax101
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

Buy the OEM plug and solder the resister to that.. so you can plug it into your stock connector and avoid chopping wires. That will make it reversible.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 03:55:48 AM   #3
fiveightandten
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

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Originally Posted by Jrotax101 View Post
Buy the OEM plug and solder the resister to that.. so you can plug it into your stock connector and avoid chopping wires. That will make it reversible.
Maybe I have to be a ****

Thanks for the suggestion, but please go back and re-read the original post.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 03:56:04 AM   #4
das borgen
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

my way?

removed the ASC TB completely from the car and unplugged it (well...obviously) and I left bolted in the ASC actuator and its plug plugged in (located on the shock tower's inboard rear side)
Obviously, this means the ASC actuator's cable is still in the vehicle and that means the cable is tucked away neatly by there and out of sight

I have an ASC light but no ABS light....which means I have no ASC but my ABS functions.....
I'm too lazy to go pull the ASC light bulb from the cluster


it seems you know a lot so I don't know if my post is useful
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:00:46 AM   #5
fiveightandten
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

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Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
my way?

removed the ASC TB completely from the car and unplugged it (well...obviously) and I left bolted in the ASC actuator and its plug plugged in (located on the shock tower's inboard rear side)
Obviously, this means the ASC actuator's cable is still in the vehicle and that means the cable is tucked away neatly by there and out of sight

I have an ASC light but no ABS light....which means I have no ASC but my ABS functions.....
I'm too lazy to go pull the ASC light bulb from the cluster


it seems you know a lot so I don't know if my post is useful
Thanks for the reply Rich. As far as the computer is concerned, this is the same as method 1. I want to explore whether or not there are other options before doing something that will cause the computer to call for actions that it thinks are being carried out, but aren't. I'm worried that will cause problems over time.

I'm curious as to whether or not people have done things like replaced the computer with a non-ASC (ABS only) unit, have found a way to electrically sever the 2 systems with something more than a resistor or trying to fool it by dangling the actuator in the engine bay, ect.
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Last edited by fiveightandten; Tue, Apr-12-2011 at 04:04:25 AM.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:04:40 AM   #6
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

If you want to really keep it simple, just remove the throttle plate that way you know it will never choke you out.

I deleted the whole thing and replaced it with the z3m roadster boot and left the actuator plugged in on the side of the shock tower.

Lots of ways to tackle this, don't forget to pull the asc bulb from the cluster.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:06:58 AM   #7
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

ASC is tied into the computer DME too much to be able to seperate them.

OBD1 computer is not compatible with OBDII engine harness

OBD1 computer requires OBD1 (3 channel ABS) for ABS to work after OBD1 conversion (from my experience)


not a whole lot of other options from my understanding of the systems (which is quite a bit after installing 2 complete 3 channel ABS systems now from scratch)
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:07:21 AM   #8
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

So I know that a big part of doing ASC delete is being able to pull the ASC TB out of the intake, but if you're willing to leave it in there (and I wouldn't blame you if you weren't), you could do what the PO of my car did.

Essentially, you wire a resistor into the switch and the default mode upon startup is ASC off-- you now have to press the button to turn it on . I thought it was lame (I got tired of turning it back ON for DDing) so I undid it. No issues with ASC or anything, you just don't get to remove the restriction in the intake...

Searching for the DIY now...


Edit: Linky
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Last edited by hencini; Tue, Apr-12-2011 at 04:11:25 AM.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:12:31 AM   #9
fiveightandten
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OahuMPower View Post
ASC is tied into the computer DME too much to be able to seperate them.

OBD1 computer is not compatible with OBDII engine harness

OBD1 computer requires OBD1 (3 channel ABS) for ABS to work after OBD1 conversion (from my experience)


not a whole lot of other options from my understanding of the systems (which is quite a bit after installing 2 complete 3 channel ABS systems now from scratch)
Thanks Cal. I had a feeling there wasn't really going to be an answer to this.

The system is way more complicated than most people give it credit for. It takes input from the damned parking brake sensor for ***** sake. I'm making such a stink about it because it doesn't mean *that* much to me to get rid of it. If there's a chance i'll be chasing ABS problems down the road, i'd just assume not mess with it, ya know.
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Last edited by fiveightandten; Tue, Apr-12-2011 at 04:18:38 AM.
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Old Tue, Apr-12-2011, 04:17:10 AM   #10
fiveightandten
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Default Re: ASC Delete options?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hencini View Post
So I know that a big part of doing ASC delete is being able to pull the ASC TB out of the intake, but if you're willing to leave it in there (and I wouldn't blame you if you weren't), you could do what the PO of my car did.

Essentially, you wire a resistor into the switch and the default mode upon startup is ASC off-- you now have to press the button to turn it on . I thought it was lame (I got tired of turning it back ON for DDing) so I undid it. No issues with ASC or anything, you just don't get to remove the restriction in the intake...

Searching for the DIY now...


Edit: Linky
Thanks for the reply, that mod may be a happy medium if I can't find a better way of deleting the system completely (I have a boot, and i'd like to just get it out of there altogether if I can find a way of doing that without any downsides). Good info to know.
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Discussing ASC Delete options? in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)