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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Sat, Jan-20-2018, 11:06:09 PM   #11
Drewster
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

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Originally Posted by Vad3r View Post
In all honesty, I plan on keeping the car as clean as possible. My main goal is to perform all preventative maintenance while very lightly, yet tastefully, modding to enjoy some windy roads not too far from home. Any experience with poly mounts?
I have Powerflex Black bushings on my car, and they're a little intrusive for a DD.. love them on my track car though

For a street car/ windy roads, I'd just refresh with OE everything
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Old Sat, Jan-20-2018, 11:18:46 PM   #12
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

In the same boat and also bought a black M3 last week. Anyone know a good place for vanos service in Hawaii?
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Old Sun, Jan-21-2018, 07:03:11 PM   #13
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

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Originally Posted by Drewster View Post
I have Powerflex Black bushings on my car, and they're a little intrusive for a DD.. love them on my track car though

For a street car/ windy roads, I'd just refresh with OE everything
Just read up on OE (rubber) v. Poly and for my use OE is definitely the way to go. Thanks for helping me save a couple hundred bucks
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Old Sun, Jan-21-2018, 08:11:53 PM   #14
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Default Introduction and Advice Seeking

I have solid aluminum subframe bushings on all four points as well as monoball sealed RTAB. None have changed the NVH in my ride quality which I thought would. What has gained is an incredible amount of rear end throttle control and placing the back in a voluntary rotation is very predictable!

I also have vincebar and vinceskinz installed as my rear subframe repair from cracks before. Cracks arenít a big deal. Just weld them up and fix up the structure. Good as new!! Actually.....better than new.
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Old Sun, Jan-21-2018, 10:09:54 PM   #15
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

The use of solid bushings not adding nhv would go against nearly all other experiences. Doesn't make it wrong, just different tolerance i'd guess.
How new or old are the struts/hat bearings and the like?
If they are also new, good, if not, when you tighten this up you'll likely notice more harshness from the bushings.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovert604 View Post
I have solid aluminum subframe bushings on all four points as well as monoball sealed RTAB. None have changed the NVH in my ride quality which I thought would. What has gained is an incredible amount of rear end throttle control and placing the back in a voluntary rotation is very predictable!

I also have vincebar and vinceskinz installed as my rear subframe repair from cracks before. Cracks arenít a big deal. Just weld them up and fix up the structure. Good as new!! Actually.....better than new.
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Old Mon, Jan-22-2018, 01:24:14 AM   #16
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

Quote:
Originally Posted by rovert604 View Post
I have solid aluminum subframe bushings on all four points as well as monoball sealed RTAB. None have changed the NVH in my ride quality which I thought would. What has gained is an incredible amount of rear end throttle control and placing the back in a voluntary rotation is very predictable!

I also have vincebar and vinceskinz installed as my rear subframe repair from cracks before. Cracks arenít a big deal. Just weld them up and fix up the structure. Good as new!! Actually.....better than new.
Interesting. That definitely is a little different from what I've been hearing and reading up on. Thanks for the reply! I'd rather just not have cracks. The whole ordeal and not knowing when it'll happen or if it will actually happen is quite a pain. You guys will know if I find any though
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Old Mon, Jan-22-2018, 02:14:15 AM   #17
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Default Introduction and Advice Seeking

^

I had KWV2 installed before my fix. So I have been used to a firmer ride but my friends felt it was a better quality damping compared to stock. I find the OEM shocks were great for small sharp edges and bumps but got a tad floaty, laterally at high speeds over dips within corners.

I think my KWV2 has better high speed damping and more stiff when hitting low speed sharp edges and bumps. Maybe thatís what Iím use to so when I shifted to solid bearing RTABs, I felt nothing bad compared to my worn OEM rubber RTABs.

When the subframe was dropped I took out the shocks from the KWs and both felt totally fine and were even in compression and rebound. I have my front shocks set to 9 clicks out of 18 from stiff and the rear is at full soft because I had to set for max rear traction as my winter Blizzak LM60 setup likes to oversteer far more naturally compared to my summer PSS.

I havenít changed any of my shock settings and it feels so similar as before my subframe repair. Both autoX buddies who have just driven my car feel nothing significant added in ride harshness except for how easy and progressive they can slide the rear.

The reason I chose solid subframe was OEM rubber bushings transfer energy via only two opposite rubber lips on the bushing. Thatís where most of my cracking originated from. Poly bushings have a separate metal sleeve inside of polyurethane with no solid outside support so load transfer canít be transmitted to the solid centre sleeve. Solid bushings connect the subframe to the RACP directly and because of Vincebar, that twisting rear diff energy is transferred and distributed through the upper trunk RACP and then directed to the most strongest part of the car, the frame rails.

I guess my shocks and struts are doing all the work to keep the vehicle ride quality comfortable while being more performance oriented.

I forgot to say that I also have dynamat and dynafoam laid down all over the inside front door panels, under the rear seating area, my trunk floor, and inside the rear quarter panels. Maybe that extra few pounds of sound deadening has helped more than I think!

I might not have some of my understanding totally right. This has been a big project with a lot of knowledge flowing into my brain and I feel like Iím still processing all of this so Iím sorry if any of my explanations are incorrect. All I know is the ride of ďmyĒ car is great and I have no fear when I stab the throttle to have some fun!!
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Old Mon, Jan-22-2018, 02:57:38 AM   #18
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

Skip the Powerflex stuff and definitely avoid BC Racing.
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Old Mon, Jan-22-2018, 05:39:56 AM   #19
Vad3r
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

Quote:
Originally Posted by rovert604 View Post
^

I had KWV2 installed before my fix. So I have been used to a firmer ride but my friends felt it was a better quality damping compared to stock. I find the OEM shocks were great for small sharp edges and bumps but got a tad floaty, laterally at high speeds over dips within corners.

I think my KWV2 has better high speed damping and more stiff when hitting low speed sharp edges and bumps. Maybe thatís what Iím use to so when I shifted to solid bearing RTABs, I felt nothing bad compared to my worn OEM rubber RTABs.

When the subframe was dropped I took out the shocks from the KWs and both felt totally fine and were even in compression and rebound. I have my front shocks set to 9 clicks out of 18 from stiff and the rear is at full soft because I had to set for max rear traction as my winter Blizzak LM60 setup likes to oversteer far more naturally compared to my summer PSS.

I havenít changed any of my shock settings and it feels so similar as before my subframe repair. Both autoX buddies who have just driven my car feel nothing significant added in ride harshness except for how easy and progressive they can slide the rear.

The reason I chose solid subframe was OEM rubber bushings transfer energy via only two opposite rubber lips on the bushing. Thatís where most of my cracking originated from. Poly bushings have a separate metal sleeve inside of polyurethane with no solid outside support so load transfer canít be transmitted to the solid centre sleeve. Solid bushings connect the subframe to the RACP directly and because of Vincebar, that twisting rear diff energy is transferred and distributed through the upper trunk RACP and then directed to the most strongest part of the car, the frame rails.

I guess my shocks and struts are doing all the work to keep the vehicle ride quality comfortable while being more performance oriented.

I forgot to say that I also have dynamat and dynafoam laid down all over the inside front door panels, under the rear seating area, my trunk floor, and inside the rear quarter panels. Maybe that extra few pounds of sound deadening has helped more than I think!

I might not have some of my understanding totally right. This has been a big project with a lot of knowledge flowing into my brain and I feel like Iím still processing all of this so Iím sorry if any of my explanations are incorrect. All I know is the ride of ďmyĒ car is great and I have no fear when I stab the throttle to have some fun!!
I have heard nothing but great things about KW, especially the V2s. I see what you're saying though, there's definitely a few factors that could be contributing towards the aspect of not feeling much of a difference comfort wise. In all honesty, as long as you personally enjoy the ride and car, then hey

I definitely appreciate the long response!
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Old Mon, Jan-22-2018, 05:42:37 AM   #20
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Default Re: Introduction and Advice Seeking

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Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Skip the Powerflex stuff and definitely avoid BC Racing.
I am considering skipping the Powerflex bushings... As for the BC coil-overs, why do you say that? Any suggestions or recommendations? As of now, it was either the BC coil-overs or a set of KWV1 coil-overs.
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Discussing Introduction and Advice Seeking in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)