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Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix!


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Old Mon, Sep-06-2010, 11:49:54 PM   #1
delirium45
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Default DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

went to put the oil drain plug back in and it just spun... stripped the darn thing... any suggested fixes other than rethread and/or new bigger bolt?
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Old Wed, Sep-08-2010, 06:51:07 AM   #2
Tonester
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Originally Posted by delirium45 View Post
went to put the oil drain plug back in and it just spun... stripped the darn thing... any suggested fixes other than rethread and/or new bigger bolt?
Thats your only choice at this point really.

I actually have a tool kit especially for redrilling/tapping a stripped out oil pan... drilling/tapping is extremely important since it has to be perfect straight so the bolt can seal against the bottom of the pan.
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Old Fri, Sep-10-2010, 09:20:59 PM   #3
delirium45
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okay, so, for those that have done this.

i decided to go with a slightly larger sized bolt, i went to standard bolt size of 1/2 inch, which when compared to the 12mm metric bolt from BMW, the 1/2 inch bolt is 12.7mm... large enough to allow me to cut fresh threads, but small enough that i don't have to worry about weakening the pan or if i wanted/needed to later install a helicoil/timesert, i would still have enough material to do so.

i sourced some 1/2-20 in 1/2 inch length from Fastenal (they have local stores in most cities as well as online) because the hardware stores only carried course-thread (1/2-13) and you really want fine-thread for this job.

i chose a stainless steal bolt, but you have some options from Fastenal.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0172314&ucst=t

after cleaning the drain hole in the pan, i proceeded to cut some new threads (be sure to get your tap square with the pan as the bolt will need to sit absolutely flush with the pan to seal properly.

i was worried about the chips from cutting getting into the pan, but i was very happily surprised to find that as i started cutting oil that was waiting just around the hole on the inside started running down the tap, carrying with it the chips.

after a full depth cut of the threads i poured some fresh motor oil in the filler hole on top of the engine... this drained down and carried with it some remaining chips.

after plugging the hole with my finger and releasing it (to build up a pool inside the pan) and getting nothing but clean oil out after a few tries i called it good and cleaned up the threads with a rag.

other nice thing about the 1/2 inch bolt size is that the OEM copper crush washer fits, snug, but it fits. put the new 1/2-20 bolt (with copper washer) in and hand tightened all the way up to the washer.

i was very tentative to tighten the new bolt so i only tightened it with the wrench a little.

started filling the engine with oil and every other Liter i checked the bolt... on my second check i noticed a little wetness around the washer... so i gave another 1/8 turn on the bolt, cleaned up the bolt and continued filling.

checked again and it looked good, time to start the car... oil pressure came up (took longer than normal since more than normal oil had drained out since the car had been sitting (open pan) for a few days) and i checked under the car as it idled... no leaks after two mins of idling... good sign. shut it off.

went back under only minor wetness, could be from oil getting warm and thinning. wiped clean only.

checked oil level since more than normal drained out, thought it might not be up to level... was on bottom dip-stick notch only, added 100mL.

car sat for 4-5 hours, checked before going to bed and slight moisture again... gave another 1/8 turn w/ wrench, now it felt like it was getting tight... i felt good about this... cleaned up bolt and went to bed.

in the morning checked it out and i is bone dry still... will get the car back on the ground and road test it this evening.
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Old Fri, Oct-22-2010, 04:30:23 AM   #4
1ch1ban
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delirium45 View Post
okay, so, for those that have done this.

i decided to go with a slightly larger sized bolt, i went to standard bolt size of 1/2 inch, which when compared to the 12mm metric bolt from BMW, the 1/2 inch bolt is 12.7mm... large enough to allow me to cut fresh threads, but small enough that i don't have to worry about weakening the pan or if i wanted/needed to later install a helicoil/timesert, i would still have enough material to do so.

i sourced some 1/2-20 in 1/2 inch length from Fastenal (they have local stores in most cities as well as online) because the hardware stores only carried course-thread (1/2-13) and you really want fine-thread for this job.

i chose a stainless steal bolt, but you have some options from Fastenal.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0172314&ucst=t

after cleaning the drain hole in the pan, i proceeded to cut some new threads (be sure to get your tap square with the pan as the bolt will need to sit absolutely flush with the pan to seal properly.

i was worried about the chips from cutting getting into the pan, but i was very happily surprised to find that as i started cutting oil that was waiting just around the hole on the inside started running down the tap, carrying with it the chips.

after a full depth cut of the threads i poured some fresh motor oil in the filler hole on top of the engine... this drained down and carried with it some remaining chips.

after plugging the hole with my finger and releasing it (to build up a pool inside the pan) and getting nothing but clean oil out after a few tries i called it good and cleaned up the threads with a rag.

other nice thing about the 1/2 inch bolt size is that the OEM copper crush washer fits, snug, but it fits. put the new 1/2-20 bolt (with copper washer) in and hand tightened all the way up to the washer.

i was very tentative to tighten the new bolt so i only tightened it with the wrench a little.

started filling the engine with oil and every other Liter i checked the bolt... on my second check i noticed a little wetness around the washer... so i gave another 1/8 turn on the bolt, cleaned up the bolt and continued filling.

checked again and it looked good, time to start the car... oil pressure came up (took longer than normal since more than normal oil had drained out since the car had been sitting (open pan) for a few days) and i checked under the car as it idled... no leaks after two mins of idling... good sign. shut it off.

went back under only minor wetness, could be from oil getting warm and thinning. wiped clean only.

checked oil level since more than normal drained out, thought it might not be up to level... was on bottom dip-stick notch only, added 100mL.

car sat for 4-5 hours, checked before going to bed and slight moisture again... gave another 1/8 turn w/ wrench, now it felt like it was getting tight... i felt good about this... cleaned up bolt and went to bed.

in the morning checked it out and i is bone dry still... will get the car back on the ground and road test it this evening.
thank you... good post. i had the same thing on mine... i didn't do it, the previous owner had it this way... it spins and does not come to a dead stop... but it's not leaking oil and i have been driving several thousands miles... i will do this on my next oil change.
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Old Fri, Oct-22-2010, 05:55:27 AM   #5
delirium45
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i will do this on my next oil change.
good luck !
this is still working just fine for me.
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Old Wed, Aug-17-2011, 08:59:57 AM   #6
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Default Re: DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

hey there. now the car is due for oil change and i am thinking about this but i am worried about messing up on cutting new thread. are there any tips you can provide?

do you just align it with the oil pan and just start screwing it in? is there anything you can use to make sure it's aligned in a straight line?

the car hasn't lost any oil at all so actually the "fixing" now becomes a risk. ahhh what to do?

new oil pan looks expensive... couple hundreds dollars...
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Old Wed, Aug-17-2011, 01:24:43 PM   #7
delirium45
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Default Re: DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

the tap is pretty easy to square up, i just did my best to eyeball it and i got it just fine.

i agree it's a risk, so you'll need to consider pros/cons for sure.

and a new pan isn't just the part, there is a lot to of disassembly to get it off.
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Old Sat, Nov-17-2012, 08:00:26 PM   #8
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Default Re: DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

This just happened to me. Went to put the drain plug back in and it kept spinning.
I get how to fix this via delirium's post but my problem is this:
The drain bolt is stuck in the drain bung and I can't get it out.
When I try to back it out, it just keeps spinning in place.
I tried to grip it with a vice grip to PULL it out but that didn't work.
What are my options to get the bolt out to tap new threads?
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Old Sat, Nov-17-2012, 08:17:36 PM   #9
delirium45
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Default Re: DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by jyi View Post
What are my options to get the bolt out to tap new threads?
if this is the stock bolt, i would get a slightly larger hex/allen wrench and 'tap' that into the hex hole with a hammer so that it is pressure fit.

while applying downward angular pressure, turn the bolt to loosen.

this is how i got it out of a friend's car that was in this situation.

if that doesn't work i would go back to your vice grip option and keep turning to loosen.
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Old Sat, Nov-17-2012, 08:24:45 PM   #10
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Default Re: DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan

It's the aftermarket hex cap bolt magnetic drain plug (17mm hex head).
Looks something LIKE this..

But the thread diameter and pitch are all the same spec to OEM drain plug.

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Discussing DIY: Fix stripped drain bung for oil pan in the Faults, Fixes and DIY Forum - Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)