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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, May-28-2010, 03:55:17 AM   #41
PeteyyPab
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SO now with the recharged battery will the car go into 0??

if so you can try

1. push start the car by putting key in position 2 stick in 0 then pushing to at least 10 mph move stick over to right and pull back (+) for 2 seconds this will let out the clutch and turn the engine.

2. follow the instructions to test the starter..

I will caution you on the push start as the car may still not run if the key is dead and the EWS doesnt recognize it

good luck
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Last edited by PeteyyPab; Fri, May-28-2010 at 04:08:24 AM.
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Old Fri, May-28-2010, 04:02:46 AM   #42
deilenberger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choco View Post
Yes but the OP said if he hooks up with the jumper cable, the flashing will be gone but it still won't crank. Looks like a starter issue. OP, you can try pushing the car a bit to move the flywheel and retry to see if it start?
Moving the flywheel doesn't do a thing for moving the starter since the starter isn't engaged with the flywheel EXCEPT when it's running - which is what isn't happening.

You can do as well by knocking on the starter with a broom handle to see if that jars it enough to move to a new (active) segment on the commutator.
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Old Fri, May-28-2010, 04:11:10 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostM3JP View Post
The video is absolutely indicative of the battery...
I'll second that, the video is clearly displaying the signs of a dead and/or drained battery. I would say perform the following steps, if they don't work get it towed to your local indy.

- Clean the terminals on your battery and make sure there aren't any shorts in the electrical system
- Replace Battery w/ OEM or Mini Cooper S (M3 CSL battery)
- Replace SMG Relay
- Replace hood sensor

* In all honestly I think the above 4 steps should fix your issue.

*ALSO, recharging the battery might not fix your issue if it cannot hold a charge; that is why I would recommend replacing it completely.

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Old Tue, Jun-01-2010, 01:04:22 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by PeteyyPab View Post
Want to know what’s really going on... simple. Do you have power going to the "start" terminal on the starter?? Want to know how to find out?

The following assumes that you have a DVOM or some means of measuring voltage at a wire.

If you are not comfortable using tools to measure voltage or are unsure how an automotive electrical system works you should bring your car to a qualified mechanic. Ok with the disclaimers out of the way lets move on...

In the electrical box under the hood there is an 8 pin connector, I don't have my car at the moment to take a picture so the one below will have to do...all I can tell you is that its an 8 pin connector with 4 wires coming out of it should be in the area marked in blue & yellow

Below is a picture of the connector and the corresponding wire colors.

Pin 1 black wire
Pin 2 green/Brown wire
Pin 7 Green wire
Pin 8 Yellow/black wire

Pin 1 is the wire we are after this wire will energize the starter.

therefore when you turn the key to the start position, if you have no voltage at this wire the car will NEVER start
All you'll need to do is back-probe this wire and have someone turn the key to start and read the voltage ..

This will reveal the answer to what is happening 1 of 3 things will happen:

1) The meter will read little or no voltage >1 volt This means the starter is NOT receiving a signal from the DME to engage the starter (starter wont click, turn, move or anything else)

2) the meter will read 9-14 volts This means the starter IS getting a signal from the DME to engage the starter... (If the starter doesn’t engage the starter/connection to battery is suspect)

3) the meter reads more than 1 volt but less than 6-8 This means the starter IS getting a signal from the DME but the voltage is not quite enough to turn the starter motor (you will usually hear a click from the starter in this case or multiple rapid succession clicks indicative of a dead battery

Sounds like you will end up with either scenario 1 or 2 in which case:
1a) your SMG system has freaked out and won’t allow the DME to start the car
1b) your EWS system doesnt recognize your key and thinks you are trying to steal the car
1c) your DME is fried

Any of the above will probably require a visit to a qualified Indy or dealer to rectify ( unless you have another key to try)

2) your starter or connection to the battery has flaked out ... see:http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=310634 either will require removal of the intake manifold which many people see to be afraid of...

let me know if i can be of anymore assistance

Happy to lend a hand
So I tested out a few things tonight..

I used a jumper wire to bypass the hood switches. I did both, and it didn't correct the issue..

A buddy of mine told me to leave the key in the on position for 20 mins, and that may clear any anti theft, not sure if there's any truth to this, but I tried it anyways, and nothing..

I have read on here that you can reset the anti theft by holding you key in the lock position on the driverside door, but my handle must not be an original because my key does not work in it.

lastly, I tried the above mentioned post by PeteyyPab.

After testing out the connection of the black wire, it read 0 volts. Tested other known locations, ie: headlights to make sure that I was getting readings, and I was, but the black wire wasn't reading a thing.

Any solutions at this point that I could do or try on my own to get signal from the DME to the starter would be very helpful!

I also had some error codes read, and I had 2:

P0123
&
P1637 (had two errors with this code)

So at this point here is what I have exhausted:

- Changed salmon colored relay
- Tried closing hood many of times, and used a jumper wire to try to bypass both of the hood switches (by the battery terminals, and the wire in behind the hood latch in the front, next to the drivers side headlight)
- Left battery disconnected for 24 hours
- Battery died, so I hooked it up to a charger for another 24 hours, it is now holding a full charge, cleaned terminals also
- Checked smg fluid level (it is slightly under the max line, maybe 5mm)
- scanned and cleared error codes
- moved vehicle a few feet to get it to a different position

any ideas at this point gentlemen that I could try, other than a new key, before I have to front a $500 tow bill to get it to a dealer?
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Old Tue, Jun-01-2010, 01:10:45 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by PeteyyPab View Post
SO now with the recharged battery will the car go into 0??

if so you can try

1. push start the car by putting key in position 2 stick in 0 then pushing to at least 10 mph move stick over to right and pull back (+) for 2 seconds this will let out the clutch and turn the engine.

2. follow the instructions to test the starter..

I will caution you on the push start as the car may still not run if the key is dead and the EWS doesnt recognize it

good luck
The car will only stay in position 0, when i push it over to 1st, it flashes 0, same when I put it in Reverse, it still just flashes 0.
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Old Tue, Jun-01-2010, 03:09:12 AM   #46
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Man, you still didn't get this sorted?

I hope you do soon.
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Old Tue, Jun-01-2010, 01:37:55 PM   #47
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Nope, still won't start.

It's not my daily driver though, and I haven't had much time to work on it, i'm just picking away at it whenever I have some time.
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Old Fri, Jun-04-2010, 10:21:17 PM   #48
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Update????
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Old Sun, Jun-06-2010, 04:44:49 PM   #49
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yea any updates? my car's smg light went out last nite, the car started fine and i drove. this morning the light was still on and now i can't get the car into neutral to start. when i open the car i dont hear the smg pump prime anymore. could this be the relay or am i looking at something worse?
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Old Sun, Jun-06-2010, 06:48:37 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by stugotz View Post
yea any updates? my car's smg light went out last nite, the car started fine and i drove. this morning the light was still on and now i can't get the car into neutral to start. when i open the car i dont hear the smg pump prime anymore. could this be the relay or am i looking at something worse?
Always check relay first and your hood.
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Discussing Car won't start after oil change - SMG light on in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)