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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 07:32:52 AM   #31
maddog2020
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Just one other thing to try is your other key. Sounds bizarre, but a number of folks (including me) have had a key fail on them (there is some sort of code built-in the key). They key will still unlock the doors with the remote and will turn the ignition on to pos 1 or 2, but won't try and turn the car over. Probably not your issue here, but you don't stand to lose anything by trying.
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 12:33:17 PM   #32
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+1.

try a spare key.
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 03:41:02 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by GhostM3JP View Post
If you're accesories are working flawlessly as the key is in the (1) or (2) postion, I'm questioning whether it is the battery... A dying battery will have some tell-tale signs... But I went through a battery with this car, and at first (issues) I really didn't point my finger at the battery..

I'm going to say the alternator is not really of concern. You'd get the car to turn over, and then likely bog out, if it was your alternator. You're getting nothing, which is somewhat scary. Something must have popped loose when you jacked the car up, which is causing the car to think that it is in a "safe mode" in terms of allowing it to initiate the starter...

You could try getting another car, and attempting to jump start your car, if you haven't done so already. Use the positive and negative under the hood, and bypass the battery...

Report back!!

Good luck
I have tried this... no luck..

However, is there some sort of fail safe sensor on the battery. I heard at one point there was.. If so, could that be throwing a code that won't allow the car to start?

I took the battery out of the car, and i'm going to throw it on the charger all day today, and put it back in tonight, and see if that may work.

I'm still working on getting a scanner to check out any fault codes.
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 03:41:34 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by maddog2020 View Post
Just one other thing to try is your other key. Sounds bizarre, but a number of folks (including me) have had a key fail on them (there is some sort of code built-in the key). They key will still unlock the doors with the remote and will turn the ignition on to pos 1 or 2, but won't try and turn the car over. Probably not your issue here, but you don't stand to lose anything by trying.
I actually only have the 1 key.
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 03:52:30 PM   #35
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Want to know what’s really going on... simple. Do you have power going to the "start" terminal on the starter?? Want to know how to find out?

The following assumes that you have a DVOM or some means of measuring voltage at a wire.

If you are not comfortable using tools to measure voltage or are unsure how an automotive electrical system works you should bring your car to a qualified mechanic. Ok with the disclaimers out of the way lets move on...

In the electrical box under the hood there is an 8 pin connector, I don't have my car at the moment to take a picture so the one below will have to do...all I can tell you is that its an 8 pin connector with 4 wires coming out of it should be in the area marked in blue & yellow

Below is a picture of the connector and the corresponding wire colors.

Pin 1 black wire
Pin 2 green/Brown wire
Pin 7 Green wire
Pin 8 Yellow/black wire

Pin 1 is the wire we are after this wire will energize the starter.

therefore when you turn the key to the start position, if you have no voltage at this wire the car will NEVER start
All you'll need to do is back-probe this wire and have someone turn the key to start and read the voltage ..

This will reveal the answer to what is happening 1 of 3 things will happen:

1) The meter will read little or no voltage >1 volt This means the starter is NOT receiving a signal from the DME to engage the starter (starter wont click, turn, move or anything else)

2) the meter will read 9-14 volts This means the starter IS getting a signal from the DME to engage the starter... (If the starter doesn’t engage the starter/connection to battery is suspect)

3) the meter reads more than 1 volt but less than 6-8 This means the starter IS getting a signal from the DME but the voltage is not quite enough to turn the starter motor (you will usually hear a click from the starter in this case or multiple rapid succession clicks indicative of a dead battery

Sounds like you will end up with either scenario 1 or 2 in which case:
1a) your SMG system has freaked out and won’t allow the DME to start the car
1b) your EWS system doesnt recognize your key and thinks you are trying to steal the car
1c) your DME is fried

Any of the above will probably require a visit to a qualified Indy or dealer to rectify ( unless you have another key to try)

2) your starter or connection to the battery has flaked out ... see:http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=310634 either will require removal of the intake manifold which many people see to be afraid of...

let me know if i can be of anymore assistance

Happy to lend a hand
Thank you for the great reply, very informative!

I'll try charging the battery today to see how I make out with that, and if that doesn't work, I'll grab a volt meter and check the voltage at the connector.

I have no issues with working on the car myself, I actually find it to be one of the easiest cars I've ever owned to work on.

Alternator was replaced at the beginning of last year, and the battery was replaced right after. However, anything can happen to a battery.
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 04:07:01 PM   #36
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here is a quick video that I snapped with my cell phone, just to show me trying to start the car. This was when the battery was going dead, so I'm assuming that the flashing lights is because of the issue with the battery.

When I have the car hooked up on jumper cables with another vehicle, the only difference is that the lights don't flash, the SMG light stays on, and the car wont crank.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys9H0zcQsbo
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 04:42:35 PM   #37
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Dead starter?
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 07:29:44 PM   #38
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The video is absolutely indicative of the battery...
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Old Thu, May-27-2010, 08:25:05 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostM3JP View Post
The video is absolutely indicative of the battery...
Yes but the OP said if he hooks up with the jumper cable, the flashing will be gone but it still won't crank. Looks like a starter issue. OP, you can try pushing the car a bit to move the flywheel and retry to see if it start?
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Old Fri, May-28-2010, 03:35:31 AM   #40
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Yes but the OP said if he hooks up with the jumper cable, the flashing will be gone but it still won't crank. Looks like a starter issue. OP, you can try pushing the car a bit to move the flywheel and retry to see if it start?
How far should the car need to be moved? I tried pushing it about a foot or two with the smg engaged in first to see if it would catch and realize that it's in first, and it didn't, so I tried starting it then.
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Discussing Car won't start after oil change - SMG light on in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)