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Old Mon, May-12-2008, 12:25:00 AM   #1
BAV_M_PWR
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Default FS: DEPO Eagle Eye LED Tails

I bought these from Umnitza, so obviously, they are the same ones Umnitza sells
They are used, but like new, and I'm looking for $150 shipped. Get the updated
LED tail light look for half the price. No error codes on the dash These
are for a coupe

Here is a link to the DIY I put together for the tails:

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=126876

EDIT: I just looked at my DIY link I posted...talking about getting owned by Umnitza...
...I paid $340 for these new, W/O reverse light

My ass hurts from the raping I took on these :FAIL:

VVVVVVVVVV

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAV_M_PWR View Post
In an effort to give back to the forum, I thought I would post my experience
with my LED retrofit guide. I purchased the (DEPO) Umnitza LED Taillights for
$340.00 (shipped), with resistor pack...

http://www.umnitza.com/product_info....roducts_id=271
Additionally, I also purchased the OEM rear light in trunk (reverse light) from my
local dealership for about $100
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...56&hg=63&fg=20

Total, this project cost me $440.00. Now keep in mind that these lights do
everything Umnitza claims. They:
1) require absolutely no dealership reflash of the LCM.
2) cost less than the OEM "retrofit" kit
3) are very easy to install using a flat-tip screwdriver and a 10mm socket wrench

The total time required for this retrofit was:
1) 20 minutes for the trunk reverse lights
2) 35 minutes for the LED taillights
Now, I had absolutely no prior experience with this upgrade, and while I consider
myself to be somewhat mechanically inclined, I'm sure it can be done quicker.

I recommend performing this retrofit during daylight hours, or in a well lit place.
Despite the fact that I did not have the latter, I chose to do this at night
because it is cooler out, and the pictures would catch the illumination better.
Additionally, the battery DOES NOT need to be disconnected during the retrofit!

Now, on to the instructions:

First, ensure you have the necessary tools as stated above:
a flat-tip screwdriver, and a 10mm socket wrench (deep socket)

Step 1:
Remove the expanding rivets as shown in the picture, I recommend only
removing the top half, as the entire liner does not need to be removed to
take out the reverse lights. This is done using the flat-tip screwdriver, working
from top (edge near locking mechanism) to bottom.
Step 2:
Using your hands, depress the detent to release the backing from the reverse light.
Step 3:
Using the 10mm socket wrench, loosen the nut until the reflector can be pushed
outward from the trunk.
Step 4:
Loosen the nut on the new reflector, and slide the new reflector into position
on the trunk.
Step 5:
Using the 10mm socket wrench, tighten the bolt until the new reflector is firmly
secured onto the trunk.
Step 6:
Replace the backing to the reflector and ensure that it "snaps" back into place.
Step 7:
Replace the expanding rivets on the trunk liner in reverse order.

Now you are finished replacing the old reverse lights with the new "crystal" reverse
lights.

I hope that was easy to follow...now, on to the LED taillights...remember, the
battery DOES NOT need to be disconnected during any portion of this process.

Step 1:
Using the flat-tip screwdriver, remove the expanding rivets located on the
interior trunk wall, next to the taillights. You will only need to peel back the
liner a small amount.
Step 2:
Using your hands, remove the backing to the taillight (houses trunk light and
taillight indicators). I kept this attached while doing the install in order to have
the extra lighting available for visibility.
Step 3:
Using the 10mm socket wrench, completely remove all three nuts on the back of
the taillight.
Step 4:
Gently push the taillight outward, slowly wiggling it back and forth to loosen the
gasket's seal on the car.
Step 5:
Using the flat-tip screwdriver, very gently pry the gasket from the old taillight,
starting at one end, and working your way to the other. The gasket will need
to be affixed to the Umnitza LED taillight (OEM LEDs come with this gasket).
Step 6:
Slide the gasket about halfway onto the new taillight. Then, using your hand,
firmly press, and or smack (if necessary) the gasket onto the rails of the new
taillight. NOTE: All the rails WILL NOT all fit back on firmly. This was not a
problem though, as it still fit snugly.
Step 7:
Replace the taillight, lining up the bolts from inside (closest to the trunk) to
outside. Ensure the gasket lined back up, and has a firm seal.
Step 8:
While firmly pressing against the taillight, replace the nuts, and using the 10mm
socket wrench, tighten from outside (side closest to side of car) to inside. Ensure
you DO NOT over-tighten the nuts. They should be tightened firmly, but very
little force (torque) is needed.
Step 9:
Disconnect the old electrical backing and plug the new taillight into the cable.
Step 10:
Tuck the wires behind the trunk liner, and replace the expanding rivets.

That's it...job complete. Now be prepared to enjoy your updated LED retrofit
kit.

Okay...now on to my opinions/concerns/comments.
First, I think Umnitza has top customer service. That being said, it was worth
the wait for the retrofit kit.
IMO, the LED retrofit kit is nearly identical to the OEM lights. When not illuminated
the only distinguishing differences is the small "DEPO" name on the lights
While illuminated, there is one distinct difference. If the taillights are on, the
"outer" ring of LEDs is illuminated also, regardless of whether or not the brake is
being depressed. It is my understanding that these typically only illuminate
during braking, and flash during heavy braking.
The other major difference is on the interior portion of the LEDs. As you may have
noticed, the backing was not re-used for the taillights. This was apparently
intentional, as the R&D was not put into creating a new backing. I do not know
how it works with the OEM LEDs, and whether or not backings can be ordered
separately, and if they would even work (which I doubt). Because of the lack
of backing, your taillights are left "exposed" on the inside. It is barely noticeable
unless you are bending into the trunk to look. As of this review/DIY, I did not
try to replace the interior trunk light that came with these LEDs, with the Xenon
bulbs that I had already installed with the old lights.

Overall, I think this was a good retrofit. Given that the equivalent OEM setup
would cost about $600, and this does not include the dealer re-flash of the
LCM (and sometimes necessary purchase of a new LCM), or the re-wiring of pin
four in order to illuminate the "outer ring" of LEDs...which IMO is a PITA...I think
this was worthwhile, and I would recommend it to anyone. The color/quality of the
platic is identical to the OEM LEDs...I guess we will see how they stand the test
of time

I hope everyone finds this review/DIY helpful. Please feel free to drop me a PM.
I have higher res pics if anyone needs them...
I will try to include/edit in any good points that are brought to my attention.
And yes...I know the car is dirty...rained yesterday/last night...it was either
wash it, or do the install...hmmmm...I'll wash it tomorrow

__________________
2003 JET BLACK ///M3 SMG


Quote:
Originally Posted by //Ali View Post
What's lesson #2, oh Lord of Ridiculous Posts

Last edited by BAV_M_PWR; Mon, May-12-2008 at 02:34:30 AM.
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Old Mon, May-12-2008, 12:37:19 AM   #2
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dibs...
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Old Mon, May-12-2008, 02:24:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truthcrip View Post
dibs...
PM replied...so whatcha gonna do?

DIBS = Payment sent

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Old Mon, May-12-2008, 01:46:42 PM   #4
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Old Mon, May-12-2008, 02:47:45 PM   #5
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BUMP ... $140 shipped
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Discussing FS: DEPO Eagle Eye LED Tails in the Parts for Sale/Wanted Forum - Post your Parts Wanted, and non commercial bmw related items for sale. We ask that companies selling goods become a Sponsor to advertise your goods. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)