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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 06:28:17 PM   #1
Bimmerman325i
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Default Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

With the recent amazing sale, I figure there are going to be a lot of new owners of the SS V1 Stepped header/Section1 combination, in addition to the large number of existing owners. The headers are great, you'll like them, etc etc. First time installation is super easy. Disassembly....oh man you're in for a treat. (note: this only applies to the V1 Stepped slip-fit style)

What I haven't ever seen discussed is tips and tricks for installing and removing the Section 1 pipes from the headers. On mine, and from talking with a few other owners, the S1 pipes effectively gall onto the headers once installed, due to the tight fit of the slip-fit connector. This makes them a royal pain in the ass to take off again-- the last couple times I had to remove them for transmission or engine work, it was a good hour of swearing, pry bars, hammering, pleading, wrenching fluid, alcoholic wrenching fluid, mechanic's words, phoning a friend, and eventually victory and more wrenching fluid.

So....this thread is to solicit and discuss ideas from those who have them for the benefit of those who will have them (or are tired of the battle), on how to make the slip fits actually easy to separate.

My main idea for the next battle is to coat the mating faces with high-temp anti-seize for stainless steels...anyone try this? Will the anti-seize affect the life or functionality of the catalysts in Section 1?

Another idea was to have essentially a super thin gasket/shim/sleeve around the OD of the header to separate the steels, but temp/combustion/fire concerns abound with that idea.

annnnnd.....discuss!
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 06:32:20 PM   #2
rpearl555
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

Yes I need to know these things
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 08:23:39 PM   #3
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

I covered the inside pipe, none on the outside pipe, so that hopefully none (or only a tiny amount) of it made it into the inside of the pipes. I also put it on pretty thin, for the same reason.
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 08:27:43 PM   #4
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

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Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
I covered the inside pipe, none on the outside pipe, so that hopefully none (or only a tiny amount) of it made it into the inside of the pipes. I also put it on pretty thin, for the same reason.
What metal anti-seize, if you recall?

I've been reading up on Copper vs Aluminum vs Nickel, with Ni being the recommended one for Stainless on Stainless.
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 08:30:07 PM   #5
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

Nickel
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 10:03:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

Wish I could help, considering my shop only charged me $350 for my complete headers/exhaust installation, it was a no brainer for me to have them install everything while they were fixing my VANOS.
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 10:20:43 PM   #7
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

I believe TIS calls for copper anti-seize on the copper nuts.
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Old Tue, Nov-28-2017, 10:21:00 PM   #8
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
Nickel
I'm not a mechanical engineer - would Copper anti-seize be better for exhaust stuff?
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Old Wed, Nov-29-2017, 02:46:54 AM   #9
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

I used copper, I had it available. I will be doing my smg conversion shortly so I'll let you know how it works out when I remove them within the next month. At this point, it has been on 2 years.
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Old Wed, Nov-29-2017, 12:15:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewster View Post
I'm not a mechanical engineer - would Copper anti-seize be better for exhaust stuff?
I didn't look into it beyond Permatex's suggested applications:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Permatex
Nickel:
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400 degree fahrenheit
For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
For use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature
Recommended where copper contamination must be avoided
Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies

Copper:
Prevents seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist
Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
Provides good electrical conductivity
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections

Standard:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly
Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts
Temperature range: -60F to 1600F
"Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies" felt like the closest match to me.

That said, I'm sure anything of them are far better than nothing, and you're not going to do any harm as long as you're not putting globs of it into the cats.
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Discussing Supersprint V1 Stepped Section 1s -- installation/removal tips in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)