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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Apr-19-2019, 01:51:05 PM   #21
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Did you read the link I posted above? I did everything you’re doing, repeatedly...it was the flywheel bolts from recently being imstalled.

Try dye
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Old Fri, Apr-19-2019, 03:50:44 PM   #22
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

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Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
Did you read the link I posted above? I did everything youíre doing, repeatedly...it was the flywheel bolts from recently being imstalled.

Try dye
But leaking around the flywheel would be small leak and should not cause the top the tranny covered with oil as OP said. His leak must be higher and massive.
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Old Fri, Apr-19-2019, 03:57:22 PM   #23
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

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Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
Did you read the link I posted above? I did everything youíre doing, repeatedly...it was the flywheel bolts from recently being imstalled.

Try dye
not sure how flywheel bolts would make it look like a vcg leak or even cause a leak at all.


but yeah racewerkz said they did use dye and it looked like it was coming from vcg. they changed the gasket and leak was gone as I said, I picked it up drove after 200miles or so I started to smell burning oil smell again and saw there was oil on my front brace again. not as bad as when I got to racewerkz but the way its going I predict it'll only get worst (the leak) as I drive more miles just like the last time. imma try reinstall the gasket and redo the rtv on it and see if it goes again.


imma check tomorrow to see where the leak is coming from again as I said. it still has dye so I just need to get my blacklight with me and should be able to see where its coming from.
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Old Sat, Apr-20-2019, 10:40:13 PM   #24
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Update:


so took the cabin air filter housing and went there and felt around the back and I felt oil from the half moons, especially the one closer to intake side.

Cleaned them up and removed as much of the oil as I can since they have dye in it I wanna clean them up so when I check later on I can see exactly where the new oil drip is coming.

Drove it around for 30mins, I noticed if I drive around under 3 to 3.5k rpm I don't see any smoke or smell burnt oil but whenever I go over 4k rpm, and go to a stop, I see a little bit of smoke from time to time coming most of the time from the passenger side area and smell the burnt oil from time to time.


Went on the lift, and checked w/ black light and I see that the leak is coming from the valve cover gasket, this is weird since Racewerkz did use RTV as I can see and the gasket is new, not sure if its OEM or not but they did replace it.


This is like the 3rd VCG replacement that I did, and most expensive one since I had Racewerkz do the job.

How and why is this keep leaking? Could the valve cover itself is f*cked and the gasket just not getting held down by it properly? Seen a couple of cases around the forums where they said after changing the cover it self they didn't get any leak anymore.

Pretty low chance of warping this covers since they are aluminum but I guess it can happen when the cover is mishandled.. which now that I think about it, the cover came from the engine that I bought for parts which was in bad condition when I got it. Anyway I think imma resort on buying a valve cover, just another used one for now on ebay and see if that helps.
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 01:10:06 AM   #25
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Did the engine ever overheat, potentially warping aluminum surfaces on the head or the valve cover?

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
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All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 02:12:49 AM   #26
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Did the engine ever overheat, potentially warping aluminum surfaces on the head or the valve cover?

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the 2nd engine that I bought not sure its history, I used it as donor parts since it was only 900bucks and it has a fully rebuilt vanos since the shop said the customer thought the "rattle" was vanos then turns out its spun rod bearing.

i bought it since the vanos alone cost 900bucks or so. the valve cover on it was pretty clean so i used that instead of the one that came from my engine. then sold that engine for guess what.. 2k LOL (not sure why but they offered me 2k and I said yes almost immediately :P).


Anyway, first step, imma remove and re-apply RTV on the current gasket, if that doesn't work, imma get another valve cover next week w/ OEM Gasket.
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 03:34:45 AM   #27
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

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Originally Posted by erickrayos View Post
the 2nd engine that I bought not sure its history, I used it as donor parts since it was only 900bucks and it has a fully rebuilt vanos since the shop said the customer thought the "rattle" was vanos then turns out its spun rod bearing.



i bought it since the vanos alone cost 900bucks or so. the valve cover on it was pretty clean so i used that instead of the one that came from my engine. then sold that engine for guess what.. 2k LOL (not sure why but they offered me 2k and I said yes almost immediately :P).





Anyway, first step, imma remove and re-apply RTV on the current gasket, if that doesn't work, imma get another valve cover next week w/ OEM Gasket.
Sounds a bit shady...seller knows more than the buyer, and they were willing to lose money on that transaction, or did they...

I would assume that at least one of the times your vcg was installed, it was done properly, so I might look into rtv-ing the crap out of it (which is your next step, but not the "usual" way of doing it), or look into swapping valve cover and next maybe the head if it persists...

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: VANOS, WPC rod bearings, full SS (SS stepped V1 headers, catted S1, stock S2, SS sport), AFD E85 Proflex kit, Ohlins R&T/Hyperco 375f Swift 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, ST40 355 pfc08, 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, Beyer driveshaft, valve adjustment, cooling refresh.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal. Have various specialty tools (VANOS, RTAB, engine bar, valve adjustment, tranny jack, ball joint separator, pilot bearing puller, tap&die kit, etc).
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 03:52:15 AM   #28
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Sounds a bit shady...seller knows more than the buyer, and they were willing to lose money on that transaction, or did they...

I would assume that at least one of the times your vcg was installed, it was done properly, so I might look into rtv-ing the crap out of it (which is your next step, but not the "usual" way of doing it), or look into swapping valve cover and next maybe the head if it persists...

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the head wasn't from the one that I bought, it was from my original engine including the block.

I actually got my money back from getting a new crankshaft on my rebuild with that other engine since I bought that for 900bucks, I bought my crank for another 600bucks, and sold the engine w/ missing 1 piston/rod (took it to replace the one that had a spun rod bearing on mine) for 2k.. really tho i was surprised the dude offered 2k straight up. I did list it as best offer., he got a an extra crank that came off of my own engine and an engine stand out of it as well (which was like 50bucks from HF). They did say they we're gonna build the engine for big boost so the pistons it has was gonna go. and they said they were gonna use the crank as core for Lang racings widened journal crank service so it works out for them, The vanos was full beisan rebuild and checked it myself with re-drilled pump disk and even the new upper chain guide is there.

The pistons however got a lot of build up carbon deposits, that's about the most negative thing I found about it.

Anyway, yes I will be re-RTVing it I guess and if that doesn't do last step is new valve cover.

And as I said the head was from my original engine, didn't have any leak problems before hand.
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 12:12:10 PM   #29
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erickrayos View Post
not sure how flywheel bolts would make it look like a vcg leak or even cause a leak at all.


but yeah racewerkz said they did use dye and it looked like it was coming from vcg. they changed the gasket and leak was gone as I said, I picked it up drove after 200miles or so I started to smell burning oil smell again and saw there was oil on my front brace again. not as bad as when I got to racewerkz but the way its going I predict it'll only get worst (the leak) as I drive more miles just like the last time. imma try reinstall the gasket and redo the rtv on it and see if it goes again.


imma check tomorrow to see where the leak is coming from again as I said. it still has dye so I just need to get my blacklight with me and should be able to see where its coming from.
Oil seeps passed them and is flung around by the rotation of the motor...depending how severe, itíll pool lower and accumulate higher than the crank centerline. Read my thread youíll see how they cause a leak. Just saying I did what youíre doing, if you have dye in, look in the peep holes. Itís free
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Old Sun, Apr-21-2019, 04:55:10 PM   #30
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Default Re: bad oil leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
Oil seeps passed them and is flung around by the rotation of the motor...depending how severe, itíll pool lower and accumulate higher than the crank centerline. Read my thread youíll see how they cause a leak. Just saying I did what youíre doing, if you have dye in, look in the peep holes. Itís free
I would consider it to be the cause if it didn't disappear after racewerkz did the VCG replacement, and just later came back up after 200+ miles driven. If that was the leak then replacing the VCG wouldn't do anything and the leak would continue on as they were but that wasn't the case. Changing the VCG did eliminate it but just came back on as I said after driving just a bit over 200miles.
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Discussing bad oil leak. in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)