[TboneM3]

You mean studs not bolts and I would get N54 studs like bigo says if you're going to replace them.

If you're going to reuse your stock studs, get some nuts without a shoulder (not like the header nuts) that are M7x1.00 to do the double nut method. Though, there may just be room enough to use the stock header nuts even with their shoulder, I would just get some thin ones to be sure.

[bimmerfan08]

Remind me again. Loctite or no Loctite on the header studs? If Loctite, blue or red?

[moezer]

Originally Posted by bimmerfan08

Remind me again. Loctite or no Loctite on the header studs? If Loctite, blue or red?

Dont use red on small nuts or bolts red us permanent

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[Drewster]

Originally Posted by moezer

Dont use red on small nuts or bolts red us permanent

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Red Loctite just specifies heating before disassembly, but yes, it's meant to be permanent.

Blue is probably best for the studs themselves, copper (maybe nickel?) anti-seize for the nuts.

[Arith2]

Originally Posted by bimmerfan08

Canada doesn't have a socialist economy. It has a capitalist/free market economy (like many developed nations) with an expansive social welfare state.



Sweden is not a socialist country either.

Expansive and expensive. I don't really watch Fox, or any TV really. The governments are socialist but not the markets. Either way I'm here to discuss M3 related things. I just want to know because it potentially affects his ability to buy M3 things. He answered and we can move on.

[Arith2]

Originally Posted by Drewster

Red Loctite just specifies heating before disassembly, but yes, it's meant to be permanent.

Blue is probably best for the studs themselves, copper (maybe nickel?) anti-seize for the nuts.

How common is the issue with walking studs though? I used new studs and nuts with no issue. I also torqued them down a bit more than specs because getting a torque wrench in there seems impossible.

[umichchris]

ok ok....so i must admit, ive been stuck in the same damn place for the past two or three weeks (working only 1 or 2 nights per week) trying to get the nuts onto the old studs for the rear section/rear set of headers. no matter what i simply cannot get the nuts to 'start' on the threads. its so frustrating. ive taken them back out...cleaned the threads, hand threaded them on w/o the headers in place (barely goes on) but once i put the headers on...no go!

its so frustrating. who else has had this problem? what was your solve? honestly, im about 5 mins away from putting all the parts in the trunk and having the car towed to a shop and let them finish the install as im out of patience...

I’m using brand new OEM copper nuts + brand new OEM gaskets btw..

[mrgizmo04]

Originally Posted by umichchris

its so frustrating. who else has had this problem? what was your solve? honestly, im about 5 mins away from putting all the parts in the trunk and having the car towed to a shop and let them finish the install as im out of patience...

I've fought something like this once, when I hand tightened 8 out of 9 nuts hand tight and then the 9th would not go on. I was ready to pull the other 8 to remove the header, pull the stud that was giving me trouble, thread the nut onto that stud and then tighten everything up. I didnt do that though. What I did was I applied a bit of pressure onto the nut with a socket (so basically instead of barely trying to screw it on by hand I switched to a socket/ratchet and applied pressure onto the nut in direction of the stud). Some areas there are tight so you cant get the nut going on straight, so it can be frustrating.

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[Arith2]

Originally Posted by mrgizmo04

I've fought something like this once, when I hand tightened 8 out of 9 nuts hand tight and then the 9th would not go on. I was ready to pull the other 8 to remove the header, pull the stud that was giving me trouble, thread the nut onto that stud and then tighten everything up. I didnt do that though. What I did was I applied a bit of pressure onto the nut with a socket (so basically instead of barely trying to screw it on by hand I switched to a socket/ratchet and applied pressure onto the nut in direction of the stud). Some areas there are tight so you cant get the nut going on straight, so it can be frustrating.

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Was it the bottom rear stud?

[umichchris]

its the 3 or 4 of them that are the most difficult to get straight-on pressure to. so when im turning...its just spinning on top of the stud and im wasting my life away while awkwardly hanging over the car.

definitely ready to tow it to a shop - though, seeing some of the replies in this lengthy thread, doing the N54 studs might help me if they are in fact longer, id have a better chance of getting the nuts to 'start' on the threads. not sure how hard it would be to remove the old OEM studs though

Originally Posted by mrgizmo04

What I did was I applied a bit of pressure onto the nut with a socket (so basically instead of barely trying to screw it on by hand I switched to a socket/ratchet and applied pressure onto the nut in direction of the stud). Some areas there are tight so you cant get the nut going on straight, so it can be frustrating.

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