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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Mar-21-2014, 06:30:07 AM   #61
deilenberger
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

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Originally Posted by CabrilloM3 View Post
No no no, you ain't no Evel Knievel. See, the dealer parts guru scolded me and said that it was only dangerous to use these on the coupe as these specific trunk buffers are for 'verts only! I think I'll go back and ask for valve stem caps for a convertible. Maybe some floor mats too.
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Old Fri, Dec-12-2014, 05:17:38 AM   #62
BubbaTree
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

Since we're poking around in the trunk of these convertible cars, here's a related ( I think ) question. Both trunk lights in my '03 convertible are out. I've checked every fuse, every other light inside the car, brake lights, turn signals, back-up, etc, and they all work correctly. The trunk light bulbs are both OK as tested with my 12v charger. There is zero voltage at the mounting prongs for the trunk lights. I just changed the trunk lid latch, with microswitch, and wish I had my money back; lights still dead. Any help? Thanks!

Last edited by BubbaTree; Fri, Oct-06-2017 at 02:40:08 PM.
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Old Fri, Dec-12-2014, 03:50:48 PM   #63
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

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Originally Posted by BubbaTree View Post
Since we're poking around in the trunk of these convertible cars, here's a related ( I think ) question. Both trunk lights in my '03 convertible are out. I've checked every fuse, every other light inside the car, brake lights, turn signals, back-up, etc, and they all work correctly. The trunk light bulbs are both OK as tested with my 12v charger. There is zero voltage at the mounting prongs for the trunk lights. I just changed the trunk lid latch, with microswitch, and wish I had my money back; lights still dead. Any help? Thanks!
Have you check the wiring if there a break in it? one of my reverse light went out because one of the wire ripped coming from the car to the trunk.
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Old Sat, Dec-13-2014, 01:31:44 AM   #64
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

I'll have a go at finding a frayed wire for those lights. I didn't mention earlier, but after replacing that latch/micro switch, I now have the dash light that indicates the trunk lid is open. For you guys who have replaced those bumpers with the new ejector version, did that fix the trunk lid open light? Thanks!
Here's an update on that trunk lid open light issue: turns out that the bottom part of that latch, the part that is not bolted to the trunk lid, is adjustable. With the trunk open, you're looking straight down into the stationary part of the latch. Pop out 2 plastic covers over the torx bolts, and you can adjust the latch up or down as needed. That's the good news; bad news is I still have no trunk lights! Can't find any frayed wiring; assuming the large brown wire in the harness is the ground. I've seen a posted fix where someone made a jumper wire to fix a bad ground. If you know where that post is located, I'd appreciate a note. Thanks!

Last edited by BubbaTree; Sat, Dec-13-2014 at 10:40:11 PM. Reason: Updated information
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Old Tue, Dec-23-2014, 03:43:13 PM   #65
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

Not to drag this one out too much, but those trunk lights are still dead. Replaced the latch, old trunk lid bumpers with the new version, visually looked for a frayed wire, and no change. For you electrical guys, since all the other lights in the trunk work, i.e., stops, back ups, directionals, and they all share that big brown ground wire, would you suspect a bad ground is killing those 2 inside trunk lights? I can sometimes get my 12v test lamp to light by grounding it to the chassis, and probing the interior trunk light. Clues?
Thanks,
Steve
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Old Wed, Dec-24-2014, 03:42:19 PM   #66
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Thumbs up Re: Fixed it..

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Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
Got 2 of PN 51-24-8-137-994 (which was the part - PN-7 - I mentioned above on realoem.com) - cost was $9.30 each, $8.30 each with my CCA discount.

Unscrewed the old rubber bumpers, screwed these in - and it works great. Now when I pop the trunk, it pops up about 1/2" - and the latch fully releases.

I found a 21mm deep socket was ideal for removing the old one and installing the new ones - it had just enough grab on the rubber so they could be turned. I used a bit of GummiPhledge (silicone grease) on the threads on the new ones so they would go in easier.

Attached are photos..

The first photo is the new one on the left and one of the old ones on the right. The second photo is a new one installed in the trunk lid.

On a difficulty scale of 1-10, this is a 1..
Thanks for the post. This solves my problem also.....
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Old Wed, Dec-24-2014, 07:30:14 PM   #67
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaTree View Post
Not to drag this one out too much, but those trunk lights are still dead. Replaced the latch, old trunk lid bumpers with the new version, visually looked for a frayed wire, and no change. For you electrical guys, since all the other lights in the trunk work, i.e., stops, back ups, directionals, and they all share that big brown ground wire, would you suspect a bad ground is killing those 2 inside trunk lights? I can sometimes get my 12v test lamp to light by grounding it to the chassis, and probing the interior trunk light. Clues?
Thanks,
Steve
BubbaTree,

For what it's worth, when I got my car (used) my interior rear trunk lights were intermittent at best. Most of the time they were out. When trying to diagnose similar to you, I "accidently" bump my hand into one of the lights and viola'... it turned on

Turns out that apparently with the way they clip in (at least mine) the connection isn't very good to the actual bulb holder. Previous owner had upgraded to newer LED light units but gave me the old incandescent units as well. For giggles, I tried pushing in the old unit and it fired up with no issues

Next step - swap back in the LED version and... drum roll please... no light...

Simple solution and explanation is the connection on the back of the new unit just wasn't making good contact with the connectors on the car. After a little fiddling, although I don't remember what I did exactly, the LED versions now light up as they should.
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Old Wed, Dec-24-2014, 11:55:45 PM   #68
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Default Re: 'Vert trunk latch problems?

If this post doesn't show clearly on your monitor, it's because of all the egg I have all over my face. Finally took the advice everyone had been offering, and opened that wire loom from the chassis to the trunk lid. To no one's surprise except mine, the hot wire to those interior trunk lights was completely broken. Touched one end to the other, and I have lights! I'll fix that as soon as I finish eating this load of humble pie! Thanks to all for your help and patience!
Steve
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Discussing 'Vert trunk latch problems? in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)